Planning a trip to Amsterdam

Amsterdam is a city built on a human scale. Few tall buildings mar the sky's clarity, and most of the populace walks or rides bicycles. The oldest part of town recalls the city's 17th-century Gouden Eeuw (Golden Age), a period when it was the hub of a vast trading network and colonial empire. It was then that wealthy merchants constructed gabled residences along neatly laid canals.

A delicious irony is that these placid old structures now host brothels, smoke shops, and some extravagant nightlife. The city's inhabitants, proud of their pragmatic, live-and-let-live attitude, have decided to control what they cannot effectively outlaw. They permit licensed prostitution in the Red Light District -- as much a tourist attraction as the Rijksmuseum or the Van Gogh Museum -- and the sale of hashish and marijuana in designated "coffeeshops."

But don't think most Amsterdammers drift around town trailing clouds of marijuana smoke. They're too busy zipping around on bikes, in-line skating through Vondelpark, sunning on their porches, browsing arrays of ethnic dishes, or watching the parade of street life from a sidewalk cafe. A new generation of entrepreneurs has revitalized old neighborhoods like the Jordaan, turning some of its distinctive houses into offbeat stores, bustling cafes, hotels, and restaurants. Along the waterfront, old harbor installations have either been put to bold new uses, or swept away entirely in favor of cutting-edge architecture.

The city will quickly capture you in its spell. At night, many of the more than 1,200 bridges spanning 160 canals are lined with tiny lights, giving them a fairy-tale appearance. Some mornings, the cityscape emerges from a slowly dispersing mist to reveal its enchanting form. Amsterdam doesn't merely have style; it has substance too (and not merely substance abuse). Besides the many canals and bridges, antiquarian bookstores, brown cafes (the Dutch equivalent of neighborhood bars), gin-sampling houses, and chic cafes and nightclubs, it offers up treasures such as the Jewish Historical Museum, the Rembrandt House Museum, and the modern-art Stedelijk Museum. Perhaps its greatest asset, though, is its inhabitants. Many speak English fluently and virtually all are friendly to visitors. Plop yourself down amid the nicotine-stained walls of a brown cafe to enjoy a beer or a jenever (Dutch gin), and you'll quickly find yourself chatting with an amiable local.

Much of Amsterdam's pleasure arises from just being in it, so toss out any "miles and miles to go before I sleep" mindset. Between dips into artistic and historic treasures, take time to simply absorb the freewheeling spirit of this vibrant city.

Amsterdam isn't hard to get to grips with even if you arrive there cold (in the preparedness sense). The local tourist organization, VVV Amsterdam, prides itself on being able to answer any conceivable travel question any conceivable traveler might have, excepting only those who are illegal or of doubtful moral worth. The city is foreign, of course, but not impossibly so; many Dutch speak English.

To really put your best foot forward, you'll want to know how much the essentials will cost; how you're going to get there; what documents, clothing, and other travel necessities you should bring; and when you should go to best take advantage of special events. This guide provides the information you need to plan your trip before leaving home.

Visitor Information

Tourist Offices -- Amsterdam’s main Visitor Information Center is run by Iamsterdam and is located at Stationsplein 10, right outside Centraal Station (tel 020/702-6000; www.iamsterdam.com); in our 24-hour world it has annoyingly short opening times, being Monday through Saturday 9am until 5pm, Sunday from 9am until 4pm; as a result is always crammed with hordes of backpackers. In spite of this, the hard-pressed staff could not be more charming and helpful. There’s also a branch in Schiphol Plaza at the airport, with the same phone number but sensible opening times: daily from 7am until 10pm.

For last-minute admission to a wide variety of theater and dance performances as well as concerts, visit the website for Last Minute Ticketshop (www.lastminuteticketshop.nl), which sells half-price tickets for same-day performances after 10am every morning. There’s a nominal booking charge of 2.50€ for each ticket. Although the website is only in Dutch, the Visitor Information Center at Stationsplein 10 can assist with translation. However, you will have to purchase tickets directly through the site.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Visas

Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand do not need a Visa for a visit to either Belgium or The Netherlands of less than 3 months. If you’re a citizen of another country, check the regulations before you plan your trip. You can get these in English from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs: www.minbuza.nl.

Passports

Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand need a valid passport to visit The Netherlands.

It is advisable to have one or two consecutive blank pages in your passport to allow space for entrance and exit visas and stamps. You must have at least 3 months left on your passport after your trip has ended for customs in Belgium or The Netherlands to allow you in to the E.U.

Medical Requirements

No health and vaccination certificates are required for entry in to Belgium or The Netherlands, nor do you need any vaccinations before your trip.

Customs

Arrivals from E.U. nationals: Duty-free shopping has been abolished in all European Union countries, so standard allowances do not apply to goods purchased in one E.U. country and brought into another. In this case, there are no import limitations for most goods for personal use, but the following guideline limits apply and are enforced: 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars, and 1 kilogram of tobacco; 10 liters of liquor, 20 liters of aperitifs (port and so on), 90 liters of wine (of which 60 liters may be sparkling wine), and 110 liters of beer.

Travelers 17 and older from outside the European Union traveling by air or sea can bring in, free of duty, ONE of the following: 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; ONE of the following: 1 liter of liquor or 2 liters of sparkling or fortified wine. In addition, you can bring in 4 liters of wine and 16 liters of beer, plus other goods worth up to 430€ without having to pay tax for visitors arriving by air and sea.

Travelers 17 and older from outside the European Union traveling by land can bring in, free of duty, ONE of the following: 40 cigarettes, 20 cigarillos, 10 cigars, or 50 grams of tobacco; ONE of the following: 1 liter of liquor or 2 liters of sparkling or fortified wine. In addition, you can bring in 4 liters of wine and 16 liters of beer, plus other goods worth up to 300€ without having to pay tax for visitors arriving by air and sea.

Forbidden products include firearms, counterfeit goods, banned narcotic substances, and protected animals and plants and products made from these.

For more information, contact Dutch Customs (www.douane.nl).

Tips for Women Travelers

Although Amsterdam is generally safe, nighttime rules about not walking alone in poorly lit and unpopulated areas apply especially to women. Harassment incidents do occur, and rape is not unheard of. It's safe for groups of women to go around the famed (and notorious) Red Light District -- supposing they can stomach seeing other women serving purely as sex objects -- but a young woman on her own, particularly after dark, could be subject to at least verbal harassment, and be mistaken for a "working girl." Public transportation is usually busy even late at night, so you generally won't have to worry about being alone in a tram or Metro train. If you do feel nervous, sit close to the driver, if possible. Many local women go around by bicycle at night.

The Netherlands has long enjoyed what one might call a relaxed attitude to the undraped female form -- a government-issued DVD, part of a mandatory "education" for would-be migrants, portrays going topless at the beach as an integral part of Dutch culture. But if close personal observation is anything to go by, I can assure you that far fewer women are actually going without at the beach or in the park these days, and those who do aren't likely to be young.

Getting Around

Most of Amsterdam is easily navigable on foot or by bicycle, but it’s a rite of passage to take a ride on the clanging trams that wind through the city streets. The underground Metro can also come in handy if you’re visiting farther-flung destinations; buses you’ll likely use less frequently. The city’s public transportation system, GVB Amsterdam, is entirely cash-free. A single-use ticket (3.20€) is valid for one hour and can be purchased from automated ticket vending machines which take cash and credit cards. Onboard trams and buses, non-chip-and-pin credit and debit cards, which most Americans use, will not work.

Note: You will see locals using a plastic electronic card called an OV-chipkaart to pay for public transportation; this is probably not the best option for a short-term stay as the card alone costs 7.50€.

If you plan to use public transportation often, your best bet is to buy a 1-day or a multiday card: 24 hours (8€), 48 hours (13.50€), 72 hours (19€), 96 hours (24.50€), 120 hours (29.50€), 144 hours (33.50€), and 168 hours (36.50€). There are reduced fares for children aged 4 to 11 and ages 3 and under travel free. Public transport in the city is also free when you purchase an Iamsterdam City Card. With any of these cards, you must check in and out—just hold your card up against the electronic reader at both the start and the end of the ride.

The central information and ticket sales point for GVB Amsterdam is GVB Tickets & Info, Stationsplein (www.gvb.nl; tel. 0900/8011 for timetable and fare information and other customer services), in front of Centraal Station and next to the Amsterdam Tourist Information Office. It’s open Monday to Friday from 7am to 9pm, Saturday from 8am to 9pm, and Sunday from 9am to 9pm. In addition, tickets are available from GVB and Netherlands Railways ticket booths in Metro and train stations and from ticket vending machines at Metro and train stations and at certain stops along the Tram 2 line.

The network of trams, buses, and the Metro is in service starting at 6am until 12:30am; there are also night buses between 3am and 7am which cost 5.50€.

BY TRAM -- Half the fun of Amsterdam is walking along the canals. The other half is riding the blue-and-gray trams that roll through most major streets. There are 14 tram routes, 9 of which (lines 2, 4, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 24, and 26) begin and end at Centraal Station, so you know you can always get back to that central point if you get lost and have to start over. The city’s other tramlines are 1, 3, 5, 7 and 19. Lines 2, 3, 5, and 12, are useful for visiting the sights south of the city around Museumplein, while 1, 4, 7, 11, 12, 19, and 24 serve the city center. Tram 2 travels from Centraal past many of the city’s major sites including Dam Square, the Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht canals, Leidseplein, and the Rijksmuseum.

Trams have one access door that opens automatically, normally toward the rear; arrowed indicators point the way to the door. To board a tram that has no arrowed indicators, push the button beside the door on the outside of any car. To get off, you may need to push a button with an “open-door” graphic. Tram doors close automatically, and they do so quite quickly, so don’t hang around. Always remember to hold your card against the reader as you get on and off the tram. Note: If you don’t “check out” as you get off, your card will carry on being charged and will run out of credit.

BY BUS -- An extensive bus network complements the trams and Metro, with many bus routes beginning and ending at Centraal Station, but it’s generally much faster to go by tram or Metro.

BY METRO -- Although it can’t compare to the labyrinthine systems of Paris, London, and New York, Amsterdam does have its own Metro, with five lines—50, 51, 52, 53, and 54—that run partly over ground and transport commuters in and out from the suburbs. From Centraal Station, you can use Metro trains to reach both Nieuwmarkt and Waterlooplein in the old city center. The newest line, 52, opened in July 2018 and travels between Amsterdam-Noord (North), and Amsterdam Zuid (South) in just 15 minutes.

BY FERRY -- Free GVB ferries (www.gvb.nl) for passengers and two-wheel transportation connect the center city with Amsterdam-Noord (North), across the IJ waterway. The short crossings are free, which makes them ideal micro-cruises as they afford fine views of the harbor. Most ferries depart from Waterplein West behind Centraal Station. The two most popular routes are to Buiksloterweg (for attractions like the Eye Film Institute and A’dam Tower), with the journey taking 5 minutes and ferries running every 4 to 12 minutes around the clock, and to NDSM-Werf, a 14-minute trip, with ferries running from 6:45am to midnight on weekdays and from 7:15am on weekends. A third route goes to IJplein, a more easterly point on the north shore, with ferries every 7 to 15 minutes from 6:30am to midnight.

BY TAXI -- It used to be that you couldn’t simply hail a cab from the street in Amsterdam; occasionally they will now stop if you do. Best is to find one of the taxi stands sprinkled around the city, generally near the luxury hotels, at major squares such as the Dam, Spui, Rembrandtplein, Westermarkt, and Leidseplein, and of course at Centraal Station. Taxis have rooftop signs and blue license plates, and are metered. Hotel reception staff can easily order a cab for you, too.

Fares are regulated citywide and all cabs are metered; the meter starts at 3.19€ and there is a charge of 2.35€ per kilometer. If you don’t see a cab stand you can call the generally reliable Taxi Centrale Amsterdam (TCA; www.tcataxi.nl; tel. 020/777-7777). The fare includes a tip, but you may round up or give something for an extra service, like help with your luggage or for a helpful chat. In fact most Amsterdam cab drivers like to talk and are pretty knowledgeable about their city, so take full advantage of them.

Uber (UberX and UberBLACK) is also available in the city and to and from Schiphol airport. Generally, the airport rates are slightly less expensive with an UberX than by taxi (around 35€–40€ versus 45€–50€).

BY CAR -- There’s no point whatsoever in renting a car if you are intending to stay in Amsterdam and not venture out of the city, as the public transport system works efficiently and most attractions are within walking distance of each other. In addition, the streets are narrow, many are one-way, some are pedestrianized, and all are crowded with bonkers cyclists; in short, driving in the city is a nightmare. However, if you are travelling outside Amsterdam, it’s usually cheapest to book a rental car online before you leave home. Try AutoSlash.com which applies current coupons against the cost of your rental, whether it be from Avis, Hertz or any of the other major companies. Then, it tracks your rental, so if the daily cost drops before you pick it up, they rebook you at the lower price.

If you must have a car, know that there are are limited parking facilities in the city itself but plenty of Park + Ride options in the suburbs, with rates of 8€ per 24 hours. Useful P+R parking lots include Olympisch Stadion and RAI in the southern part of the city, and Noord and Zeeburg in the north; all are near public transport facilities. If you insist on parking in town, there are designated car parks centrally, the most useful for tourists being at Waterlooplein (Valkenburgerstraat 238) or Beursplein 15 and charging 3€ to 8€p er hour.

Don’t risk leaving your car on the street as the limited public parking in the city is managed with a gauntlet-grip by Cition, which will tow your car away at the drop of a hat for the slightest parking violation and then whack you with a 373€ fine; cash payments not accepted. If you do have the misfortune to get towed, the collection depot is at Daniël Goedkoopstraat 9 and it’s open daily around the clock.

Bag a Bike Taxi

If you’re keen on your green credentials, use a bike taxi or rickshaw to get around the city. They’re clean, relatively comfortable, and can zip along the cobbled streets giving Amsterdam’s cyclists a run for their money. The rickshaws are easy to spot all over the city, but especially around Centraal Station, Leidseplein, Museumplein, and Waterlooplein, or you can order your eco-taxi in advance. Contact Amsterdam Fietstaxi (www.amsterdam-fietstaxi.nl; tel. 065/348-1860). Charges start at 10€ for rides in the city center; half-hour tours are 25€.

Tips for Student Travelers

Students -- and young folk in general -- are big in Amsterdam. There are two major universities in the city, the UA (University of Amsterdam) and the VU (Free University), and a number of colleges, schools of this and that, and other institutes of higher learning.

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC) (www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, admission fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card at STA Travel (www.statravel.com; tel. 800/781-4040 in the U.S.; tel. 888/427-5639 in Canada; tel. 0871/230-0040 in the U.K.; tel. 021/427-9188 in Ireland; tel. 132 782 in Australia; tel. 0800/474400 in New Zealand), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts.

Fast Facts

ATMs -- There are ATMs all over Amsterdam, and many are open 24/7, although you’ll want to be a bit cautious about withdrawing cash in quiet areas after dark.

Business Hours -- Stores usually open from 9:30am to 6pm Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. Many are closed on Monday morning, opening at 1pm, and most shops outside the center close all day Sunday. Some stay open until 8 or 9pm on Thursday. Most museums close 1 day a week (often Mon), but open some holidays, except for Koningsdag (King’s Day on Apr 27), Christmas, and New Year’s Day. (Even then, the Rijksmuseum is open every day of the year, regardless of public holidays.)

Consulates -- The U.S. Consulate: Museumplein 19 (tel 020/575-5330; https://nl.usembassy.gov/embassy-consulate/amsterdam; tram 3, 5, 12, 16, or 24). The U.K. Consulate: Koningslaan 44 (tel 020/676-4343; www.gov.uk/world/organisations/british-consulate-general-amsterdam; tram 2). The Australian, Canadian, Irish, New Zealand, UK, and U.S. embassies are all in The Hague .

Emergencies -- For any emergency (fire, police, ambulance), the number is tel 112 from any land line or cellphone. For 24-hour urgent but nonemergency medical or dental services, call tel 088/0030-600; the operator will connect you to an appropriate doctor or dentist. To report a theft, call tel 0900/8844. Residents of E.U. countries must have a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) to receive full health-care benefits in The Netherlands.

Internet Access -- Most hotels in Amsterdam offer Wi-Fi access as a matter of course.

Pharmacies -- In The Netherlands, a pharmacy is called an apotheek and sells both prescription and nonprescription medicines. Regular open hours are Monday to Saturday from around 9am to 6pm. Pharmacies post details of nearby all-night and Sunday pharmacies on their doors.

Post Office -- The city of Amsterdam doesn’t have post offices as such anymore; instead various branches of newsagents, supermarkets, and grocery stores have postal points run by PostNL (www.post.nl). The stationers Gebroeders Winter (Rozengracht 62), the branch of Albert Heijn supermarket at Jodenbreestraat 21, and Ako newsstand (Reguliersbreestraat 19) all have postal points where you can mail a parcel or postcard home. Stamps can also be purchased from your hotel reception and any newsstands that sell postcards.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Amsterdam is Europe's gay epicenter -- in fact, it might just be the most gay-friendly city on the planet. It even has a monument, the Homomonument, dedicated to gays and lesbians who have been persecuted around the world through the ages.

Get local information by visiting COC (tel. 020/626-3087; www.cocamsterdam.nl), the Amsterdam branch of the Dutch LGBT organization. The Gay and Lesbian Switchboard (tel. 020/623-6565; www.switchboard.nl), open daily from 10am to 10pm, provides all kinds of information and advice.

Gay and lesbian bars and clubs are well publicized in Gay News (www.gaynews.nl).

Calendar of Events

JANUARY

New Year. This celebration is wild and not always wonderful. Youthful spirits celebrate the New Year with firecrackers, which they throw at the feet of passersby. This keeps hospital emergency rooms busy. January 1.

International Film Festival, Rotterdam. More than 300 indie films are screened at theaters around town. Contact tel 010/890-9090; www.filmfestivalrotterdam.com. Late January.

FEBRUARY

ABN AMRO World Tennis Tournament, Rotterdam. The world’s top tennis players converge on the port city for this ATP Tour event. Contact Ahoy Rotterdam (tel 010/293-3300; www.abnamrowtt.nl). Second week in February.

MARCH

Windmill Days, Zaanse Schans. All five working windmills (out of eight windmills in total) are open to the public at this recreated old village and open-air museum in the Zanstreek, just north of Amsterdam. Contact Center Zaans Schans (tel 075/681-0000; www.dezaanseschans.nl). March through October.

Opening of Keukenhof Gardens , Lisse. The greatest flower show on earth blooms with a spectacular display of tulips and narcissi, daffodils and hyacinths, bluebells, crocuses, lilies, amaryllis, and many other flowers at this 32-hectare (79 acres) garden in the heart of the bulb country. Nearly eight million bulbs are planted every year. Contact Keukenhof (tel 0252/465-555; www.keukenhof.nl). March to mid-May.

APRIL

Museumweekend. A weekend during which most museums in the Netherlands offer free or reduced admission and have special exhibits. Contact Museumweekend (tel 020/551-8910; www.museumweekend.nl). Early April.

Bloemencorso van de Bollenstreek (Bulb District Flower Parade) . Floats dressed to a different floral theme each year parade from Noordwijk through Sassenheim, Lisse, and Bennebroek to Haarlem. Contact Postbus 115 (tel 0252/428-237; www.bloemencorso-bollenstreek.nl). Mid-April.

Koningsdag (King’s Day) . Countrywide celebration honoring the King’s official birthday, with parades, street fairs, flea markets, and raucous street entertainment. Throughout The Netherlands, but best in Amsterdam. April 27.

MAY

Bevrijdingsdag (Liberation Day). Commemorates the end of World War II and Holland’s liberation from Nazi occupation. Celebrated throughout the country, but best in Amsterdam. May 5.

National Windmill Days. Around two-thirds of the country’s almost 1,000 working windmills spin their sails and are open to the public. Contact De Hollandsche Molen (tel 020/623-8703; www.molens.nl). Second weekend in May.

Vondelpark Openluchttheater (Open Air Theatre). Runs right through the summer with weekend programs of rock and pop concerts, stand-up, drama, and dance. Contact Stichting Vondelpark Openluchttheater (tel 020/428-3360; www.openluchttheater.nl). May through end of August.

JUNE

Holland Festival. The city’s big cultural buffet of music, opera, theater, film, and dance. The schedule includes all the major Amsterdam venues plus international companies and soloists. Contact Holland Festival (tel 020/788-2100; www.hollandfestival.nl). Throughout June.

Vlaggetjesdag (Flag Day), Scheveningen. The fishing fleet opens the herring season with a race to bring the first Hollandse Nieuwe herring back to port (the first barrel is auctioned for charity). Contact Stichting Vlaggetjesdag Scheveningen (tel 070/307-2900; www.vlaggetjesdag.com). Mid-June.

Open Gardens Days. If you wonder what the fancy gardens behind the gables of some of Amsterdam’s Canal Ring houses-turned-museums look like, this is your chance to find out. Six of the best are open to the public for 3 days. Contact Grachten Musea (tel 020/320-3660; www.grachtenmusea.nl or www.opengardendays.nl). Third week in June.

JULY

Amsterdam Roots Festival. This festival features music and dance from around the world, along with workshops, films, and exhibits. One part is the open-air Oosterpark Festival, a multicultural feast of song and dance held in Amsterdam-Oost (East). Contact Amsterdam Roots Festival; www.amsterdamroots.nl). Early July.

Over Het IJ Festival. Performers stage avant-garde theater, music, and dance in Amsterdam-Noord beside the IJ channel, at the old NDSM-Wharf, TT Neveritaweg 15. Contact Over Het IJ Festival (tel 020/492-2229; www.overhetij.nl). July.

North Sea Jazz Festival , Rotterdam. One of the world’s leading gatherings of top international jazz and blues musicians unfolds over 3 concert-packed days at the city's giant Ahoy venue. Last-minute tickets are scarce, so book as far ahead as possible. Contact Ahoy Rotterdam; www.northseajazz.com). July.

AUGUST

Amsterdam Gay Pride. This is a big event in Europe’s most gay-friendly city. As many as 150,000 people turn out to watch the Boat Parade’s display of 100 or so outrageously decorated boats cruising the canals. In addition, there are street discos, open-air theater, a sports program, and a film festival. Contact Amsterdam Gay Pride (www.amsterdamgaypride.nl). Early August.

Grachtenfestival (Canal Festival). A 10-day festival of classical music, on a different theme each year, plays at intimate and elegant venues along the city’s canals and at the Muiziekgebouw aan 't IJ. There’s always a performance or two for children. The festival culminates in the exuberant Prinsengracht Concert, which plays on a pontoon in front of the Hotel Pulitzer. Contact Stichting Grachtenfestival (tel 020/421-4542; www.grachtenfestival.nl). Mid-August.

Festival Oude Muziek (Festival of Early Music), Utrecht. Concerts of music from the Middle Ages to the Romantic era. Contact Stichting Organisatie Oude Muziek (tel 030/232-9000; www.oudemuziek.nl). Late August through early September.

Uitmarkt. Amsterdam previews its cultural season with this open market of information and free performances in Leidseplain and Museumplein, theaters, and concert halls. The shows run the gamut of music, opera, dance, theater, and cabaret. Contact Uitmarkt (tel 020/626-2656; www.uitmarkt.nl). End of August.

SEPTEMBER

Open Monumentendag (Open Monument Day). Get to see historic buildings and monuments in the major towns around the country that usually are not open to the public, and get in free. Contact Open Monumentendag (tel 020/422-2118; www.openmonumentendag.nl). Mid-September.

State Opening of Parliament , The Hague. On Prinsjesdag (Princes’ Day), King Willem-Alexander rides in a splendid gold coach to the Ridderzaal in The Hague to open the legislative session by delivering the Speech from the Throne. Contact Gemeente Den Haag (tel 070/353-3000; www.denhaag.nl). Third Tuesday in September.

OCTOBER

Leidens Ontzet (Relief of Leiden). Procession commemorating the anniversary of the raising of the 1574 Spanish siege of Leiden. Haring en witte brood (herring and white bread) are distributed, just as the piratelike band of “Sea Beggars” did after helping drive the Spaniards away. Contact Leidens Ontzet Secretariaat (tel 071/532-4724; www.3october.nl). October 3 (Oct 4 when the 3rd is a Sun).

NOVEMBER

Crossing Border, The Hague. Literature, poetry, and music are combined in this 4-day festival. Contact Crossing Border (tel 070/346-2355; www.crossingborder.nl). Mid-November.

Sinterklaas Arrives. Holland’s Santa Claus (St. Nicholas) launches the Christmas season when he sails into Amsterdam, accompanied by black-painted assistants, called Zwarte Piet (Black Peter), who hand out candy to kids. During the next 2 weeks, he makes his way to towns across the country. Contact local tourist offices. Third Saturday in November. He arrives the next day in Amsterdam.

DECEMBER

Amsterdam Light Festival. The center of Amsterdam is illuminated with contemporary light installations. The festival kicks off with a boat parade around the canals. Contact Amsterdam Light Festival (tel 020/420-2060; www.amsterdamlightfestival.com). Early December through mid-January.

Sinterklaas. St. Nicholas’s Eve is the traditional day in Holland for exchanging Christmas gifts. December 5.

Health & Safety

There are no particular health concerns in Amsterdam -- if you don't count the "risk" of occasionally breathing in a whiff of second-hand hashish smoke. Traveling in the Netherlands poses few health problems. The tap water is safe to drink, the milk is pasteurized, blood for transfusions is HIV-screened, and you likely won't need to worry about getting too much sun.

If You Get Sick -- If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. If not, contact the Central Doctors Service (tel. 020/592-3434; www.centraldoctors.nl) or go to the emergency room at one of the local hospitals. The U.S. and U.K. consulates in Amsterdam can provide a list of area doctors who speak English (almost every doctor in town). Most Amsterdam hospitals have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life-threatening, though you may not get immediate attention.

General Availabilty of Healthcare -- The Dutch healthcare system is among the world's best. It's easy in Holland to get over-the-counter medicines and other simple remedies for minor ailments. Local brands and generic equivalents of common prescription drugs are available. Most doctors speak English (though their lingo might be a little disturbing, like when a doctor once told me he knew what "disease" I had when I reported a minor ailment).

Safety

Watch for pickpockets on trams, buses, Metro trains, and in train and Metro stations. Constant public announcements at Centraal Station and Schiphol Airport warn about pickpockets, and tram signs warn, in a multitude of languages, ATTENTION: PICKPOCKETS. Drivers often recognize a pickpocket who gets on their bus or tram, and announce over the vehicle's PA system that passengers should watch out for their belongings. It's fun to watch the miscreants getting off again at the next stop, foiled. Pickpockets and other thieves often wait until you are occupied or distracted -- or act to occupy or distract you -- before making their move. Consider wearing a money belt. Women, wear your purse crossed over your shoulder so that it hangs in front, with the clasp or zipper facing in. A backpack worn on the back is an open invitation to thieves, so either don't wear it like that or don't put anything valuable in it (you could consider packing it with loaded mousetraps).

Violence is not unknown to Amsterdam, but it's not at all a violent city. Foreign drug dealers whacking each other doesn't count -- unless innocents get caught in the crossfire, this usually merits only a single-sentence news blip on p. 21 of the local paper. Drug-related crime is prevalent, but most of it, like pickpocketing, is nonviolent, relatively minor, and opportunistic. Stealing bicycles is a "big" problem her. Muggings and armed robberies do happen, but they're not a regular feature of life.

There are some risky areas, especially in and around the Red Light District. Be leery of walking alone after dark through narrow alleyways and along empty stretches of canal. Don't use ATMs at night in quiet areas. It's wise to stay out of Vondelpark at night, but there are cafes on the edge of the park that are busy until closing time.

Amsterdam has its share (more than its share, really) of weird folks, some of whom may lock onto you for one reason or another. If you can't shake them off, go into a cafe or hotel and wait until they leave or call a taxi to take you away.

Report any crime committed against you to the police (politie), most of whom speak English and are generally helpful to visitors.

Note: Listing some of the possible dangers together like this can give a false impression of the threat of crime in Amsterdam. There is no need to be afraid to do the things you want to do. Amsterdammers aren't. Just remember to exercise the usual rules of caution and observation that apply in any big city.

Money

If you are used to the prices in New York and London, Amsterdam won't seem too out of whack. But opportunities for scoring genuine bargains run a thin gamut from few-and-far-between to nonexistent. Remember, the Dutch have for centuries been consummate traders and middlemen. You need only look at how well-appointed their country is to appreciate how good a job they've done extracting money from foreigners.

In your favor is that the Dutch themselves display an almost proverbial reluctance to unnecessarily part with a euro. A sound rule of thumb is that if you lodge, dine, and entertain yourself in the same places where "ordinary" Dutch do, you can limit financial damage.

Currency

The European euro (€) is the currency in the Netherlands. There are 100 euro cents to each euro. The euro coins are: .01€, .02€, .05€, .10€, .20€, .50€ (1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 euro cents), 1€, and 2€. The euro notes are 5€, 10€, 20€, 50€, 100€, 200€, and 500€.

Holland does not produce its own 1 and 2 euro cent coins (except for commemorative issues), and prices in the country are rounded to the nearest 5 cents. The 200€ and 500€ notes are pretty much unusable because few businesses accept them.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com to check up-to-the-minute rates.

ATMs

The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then check online for ATM locations in Amsterdam. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Remember that mody banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

If you have a five- or six-digit PIN, be sure to obtain a four-digit number from your bank to use in Amsterdam. Some cards with five- or six-digit PINs might work, but this depends on which bank you're with. The best advice is still to get a four-digit number from your bank.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are not as commonly accepted in Amsterdam as they are in the U.S. and Britain. Many restaurants and shops in the city -- and some hotels -- don't accept them at all. Some establishments tag on a 5% charge for card payment. Visa and MasterCard (also known as Eurocard in Europe) are the most widely used cards in Holland. American Express is often accepted, mostly in the middle- and upper-bracket category. Diners Club is not as commonly accepted as American Express.

Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

In Holland, you'll rarely (perhaps never) come across a business that uses the old swipe system for authorizing credit card payments. Instead, payments will either be authorized by a chip system in the card and the cardholder's signature, or by chip-and-PIN, with a four-digit personal identification number replacing the signature. An additional complication is that many card-accepting machines and businesses in Holland, in particular those like parking machines, train ticket machines, self-service gas (petrol) stations, and small shops, take the local Chipknip stored-value cards. Foreign visitors may be obliged to use their cards to a certain extent just for withdrawing funds from bank ATMs, and paying with old-fashioned cold, hard cash.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

The old center of Amsterdam -- filled with narrow cobbled streets, steep humpback bridges, zillions of little barrier pillars called Amsterdammertjes, and bicycles parked all over the place -- can be hard going. But many hotels and restaurants provide easy access for people with disabilities, and some display the international wheelchair symbol in their brochures. It's always a good idea to call ahead to find out about accommodations before you book; bear in mind that many older hotels have steep, narrow stairways and no elevators. Many, but not all, museums and other sites are wheelchair accessible, wholly or partly, and some have adapted toilets. Contact them in advance with questions; sometimes the information will be on the attraction's website.

Schiphol Airport has a service to help travelers with disabilities through the airport. Not all trams in Amsterdam are easily accessible for wheelchairs, but newer trams have low doors that are accessible, and most buses are accessible. The Metro system is fully accessible, but that's not as good as it sounds because few Metro stations are near places where visitors want to go. Taxis are also difficult, but the new minivan taxis are an improvement. Go online to Staxi's wheelchair taxi page to find accessible cabs to book.

There's comprehensive assistance for travelers on Netherlands Railways trains and in stations. Call tel. 030/235-7822 for information, or visit www.ns.nl. Give this organization a day's notice of your journey (by visiting a station or calling ahead) and they'll arrange for assistance along the way.

A good source of travel-related information in the Netherlands is the blog www.ableamsterdam.com.

Tips for Families

At first glance, Amsterdam is not a great family destination. Who wants to be taking the kids into a hash-smoking den, or traipsing around the Red Light District? Or to a country that permits children from age 12 to have "non-exploitative" sexual relationships? To boot, a legal political party, the Brotherly Love, Freedom, and Diversity Party (PNVD), openly advocates pedophilia and child pornography.

A second glance is likely to be more promising. This the capital of a country in which kids are relatively highly regarded. There's also plenty of wholesome stuff for them to do.

Let's see now: Pedaling a rented bicycle around town, or a water-bike around the canals; riding trams, harbor ferries, and canal boats; visiting Artis Zoo, the Anne Frank House, and one of several children's farms; exploring the beach at Zandvoort; swimming in the IJsselmeer; working off steam at adventure parks. And lots more.

Some of the city's more expensive hotels offer kids' suites, and you might even find that a suite is cheaper than booking two rooms. Many hotels allow children up to a certain age to sleep free or for a reduced rate in their parent's room, and may provide an extra bed.

Arrange ahead of time for such necessities as a crib, bottle warmer, and car seat (in the Netherlands, small children are not allowed to ride in the front seat).

Tips for Single Travelers

Amsterdam is Europe's ideal singles city, because it is not that difficult a place to get to and to navigate for a person traveling alone. Plenty of solo travelers visit here every year -- you can think of Amsterdam as Europe's singles central. There are lots of hotels and restaurants in all price bands, and it's easy to meet other people around the bars and clubs, on canal-boat tours and bicycle tours, and in other ways.

Staying Connected

Cellphones (Mobile Phones)

Cellphone charges can be high, so always check with your provider before dialing anywhere from Amsterdam. We've found that, for Americans, T-Mobile has decent rates worldwide (and in the Netherlands). Alternatively, you can rent a phone through Cellhire (www.cellhire.com) or another country (you'll encounter kiosks renting phones at the airport and at train stations). If you decide to go with Cellhire, you'll complete a simple online registration well before traveling, they will ship a phone (usually with a U.K. number) to your home or office.

Another strategy: simply rely on Skype or WhatsApp, using the hotel's free WiFi, for any and all calls. Stay off the phone otherwise (it not only saves money, but may allow you to better enjoy your vacation).

To call Amsterdam from outside the Netherlands:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 in the U.S., and 00 in most other countries.

2. Dial the country code for the Netherlands: 31.

3. Dial the area code 20 and then the number. So the whole number you'd dial would be 011-31-20-000-0000.

Area Codes: The area code for Amsterdam is 020 (use just 20 when you're calling from outside the Netherlands). When making local calls in Amsterdam, you don't need to use this area code. When making local calls within other cities, you don't need to use the city's area code. You do, however, need to use an area code between towns and cities.

There are two main formats for Dutch phone numbers: For cities and large towns, a three-digit area code is followed by a seven-digit number. For smaller towns and villages, a four-digit area code is followed by a six-digit number. In addition to Amsterdam's, some other area codes used in this guide are Haarlem, 023; The Hague and Scheveningen, 070; Rotterdam, 010; Delft, 015; Leiden, 071; and Gouda, 0182.

Operator assistance: Call tel. 0800/0410.

Information: For numbers inside the Netherlands, call tel. 0900/8008; for international numbers, call tel. 0900/8418.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 0800 within Holland are toll-free, but calling a 1-800 number in the States from Holland is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Special numbers: Watch out for the special Dutch numbers that begin with 0900. Calls to these are charged at a higher rate than ordinary local calls.

International calls: To make international calls from Amsterdam, first dial 00 and then the country code. To call the United States or Canada, dial 00 (the international access code) + 1 (the country code) + the area code + the number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800. Other country codes are United Kingdom, 44; Ireland, 353; Australia, 61; New Zealand, 64.

Internet

Almost all hotels in Amsterdam have Wi-Fi or Internet access either in the rooms or in the public spaces, or both, usually for free.

Neighborhoods in Brief

The Old Center -- The oldest, most central district of Amsterdam centers on the rackety Dam Square, Oude Kerk , and the Nieuwmarkt and is probably best known for containing the infamous Red Light District, which lies between the two canals Oudezijds Voorburgwaal and Oudezijds Achterburgwaal. Despite its seedy reputation, it is safe and well policed. A recent gentrification policy has seen more restaurants and design stores moving into the area.

Canal Ring -- The concentric band of three canals that surround the Old Center was built in the 17th century as the cramped, disease-ridden old city drastically needed to expand. Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and Prinsengracht today form an aristocratic enclave of grand town houses overlooking the three canals. Some of the city’s smartest hotels and many major attractions lie within this belt, including the Westerkerk , the Anne Frank Huis , the Canal House Museum, and the Willet-Holthuysen Museum along with more niche attractions like the pipe and biblical museums .

Jordaan -- This area of formerly artisanal housing lining narrow canals interspersed with hump-backed ridges is now the favored residential area of Amsterdam’s intelligentsia. There are lots of bars and traditional brown cafes to discover as well as innovative art galleries and design studios. Jordaan also has scores of canal-house hotels tucked into its pretty lanes, a world away from the Red Light District yet only a 10-minute walk.

Museum Quarter -- Housing Amsterdam’s triumvirate of heavyweight art museums, the Rijksmuseum, Stedelijk Museum, and the Van Gogh Museum, this quarter is also home to the Concertgebouw concert hall, embassies, and upmarket stores as well as one of the city’s most glorious public spaces, the Museumplein . The Heineken Brewery is close by .

Oud Zuid -- Adjoining the Museum Quarter and the Vondelpark , Amsterdam’s poshest residential area is also its most exclusive shopping district, with top international brands and jewelry stores packed along PC Hoofstraat . Luxury apartments abound along with exclusive hotels and a general air of wealth.

De Pijp -- Multi-ethnic and beguiling, De Pijp is choked with well-priced restaurants producing cooking from every nationality across the globe and features the city’s best street market along Albertcuypstraat. Although the area is smartening up with the arrival of a few smart hotels and restaurants, it is still a natural home of immigrants, students, and Amsterdam’s least-known red light district along Ruysdaelkade .

De Plantage -- Incorporating the Artis Royal Zoo , the Hortus Botanicus , and Amsterdam’s Jewish Quarter , Plantage is an area of wide boulevards surrounded by residential streets. It’s the costly home to aspiring professional families with young families. The Jewish Museum and Portuguese Synagogue mark the district’s western limits, the housing developments around Oosterdok its northern edges.

Noord Amsterdam -- The opening of EYE Film Institute started the migration across the IJ waterway to this new bastion of cool, an alternative area of graffiti, street art, and low-key housing that has seen industrial dilapidation of the old docks repurposed into new cultural centers such as the Tolhuistuin, housed in an abandoned Shell factory. A free ferry leaves from Waterplein West at the back of Centraal Station.

Westerpark -- Westerpark is a funky corner of the city, home to formerly working-class housing that has largely been turned into apartments. Its focal point is the trendy entertainment complex that has seen the old Westergasfabriek turned into one of the city’s biggest leisure destinations.

Oosterdok -- Amsterdam’s new residential areas consists of manmade islands redeveloped from the ruins of former dockyards. The housing stock is low-level and contemporary, with plenty of on-trend cafes, bars, and design boutiques along the IJ-front promenades. Residents are mainly a young bunch working in creative industries. The Scheepvartmuseum and Science Centre NEMO are close by.

Outlying Areas -- Amstelveen lies south of Amsterdam, a primarily middle-class suburban area that has little to distinguish itself other than for being the home of the exceptional Cobra Modern Art Museum .

Escorted & Package Tours

Dozens upon dozens of escorted tours are offerred to the Netherlands yearly. To quickly see a number of options, we highly recommend two marketplace sites: Tour Radar (www.tourradar.com) and Stride Travel (www.stridetravel.com). Each displayes listings for well-established tour companies, allowing users to key in their dates of travel before seeing which tours are avilable. Along with company names, you'll see the price of each trip, what is included, and user reviews from past travelers. It's a quick way to compare apples to apples; these sites will also introduce travelers to small, local specialists that may have lower prices than the multi-national tour companies.

The question becomes: does one actually need an escorted tour to enjoy a trip to the Netherlands? With a good escorted tour you have to worry about transportation, luggage, hotel reservations, and other basics -- an experienced guide will take care of all that and lead you through all the sightseeing. The downside of a guided tour is that you trade much of the freedom and personal free time independent travel grants you and often see only the canned postcard-ready side of Amsterdam through the tinted windows of a giant bus. You get to see Amsterdam, but rarely do you get the chance to really know it. Escorted tours also won't save you money. Plus, most Dutch citizens speak English and the public transportation system here is excellent, making the Netherlands easy to visit independently. Still for some travelers, tours can be a smart choice.

Language & Cooking Classes

Maybe you've always dreamed of learning Dutch, of dazzling friends with your nonchalantly correct pronunciation of Van Gogh, Schiphol Airport, and the many other little delights of the tongue that goes by the name of Nederlands. Beware. You'll need to perfect a mode of delivery that will lead both friends and beloved to believe you're choking on a chicken bone. The good news is that it can be done in Amsterdam. All three of the city's universities offer Dutch courses:

Universiteit van Amsterdam, Spui 21, 1012 WX Amsterdam (tel. 020/525-9111; www.uva.nl).
Volksuniversiteit, Rapenburgerstraat 73, 1011 VK Amsterdam (tel. 020/626-1626; www.volksuniversiteitamsterdam.nl).
Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam, De Boelelaan 1105, 1081 HV Amsterdam (tel. 020/598-9898; www.vu.nl).

You can even learn the lingo and whip up some Dutch dishes on the same vacation. "Dutch cooking is not a widely known cuisine," admits a reviewer of The Art of Dutch Cooking by Corry Countess Van Limburg Stirum. This is akin to pointing out that the Pope is a Catholic. Yet all is not lost, as you can discover by making contact with De Kookfabriek, De Flinesstraat 2-4, 1099 CB Amsterdam-Duivendrecht (tel. 020/463-5635; www.kookfabriek.nl), which (among other things) organizes Dutch cooking classes.

Orientation

Amsterdammers will tell you it's easy to find your way around their city. However, when each resident offers you a different pet theory of how best to maintain your sense of direction, you begin to sense that the city's layout can be confusing. Some of the natives' theories actually do work. If you try to "think in circles," "follow the canals," or "watch the way the trams go," you might be able to spend fewer minutes consulting a map or trying to figure out where you are and which way to walk to find the Rijksmuseum, a restaurant, or your hotel.

When you step out of Centraal Station's main entrance, you're facing south toward the Centrum (Center). From here, the city is laid out around you along four concentric semicircles of canals, the Grachtengordel (Canal Belt): Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and Prinsengracht. Along these canals, 16th- and 17th-century merchants lived in elegant homes, most of which are still standing. The largest and most stately canal houses are along Herengracht. Connecting these canals are many smaller canals and streets radiating out from the Center, and effectively dividing the city into an archipelago of tiny islands linked by bridges. The area inside the Singelgracht canal, a fifth concentric waterway forming an outer rim to the canal belt (and not to be confused with Singel, the inner concentric canal), is considered the Old City -- and it's so compact that a fit person should be able to walk across it in around 30 minutes.

A heavily touristed street, Damrak, leads from Centraal Station to the main central square called the Dam. In the 17th century, Damrak was a canal, its quays jammed with cargo boats and lined with mapmaker stores and ships' chandlers, coopers and ropemakers. Narrow side streets like Haringpakkerssteeg and Zoutsteeg recall the herring packers of yore (haring means "herring") and where ships used to unload salt (zout means "salt"). In the late 19th century, Damrak was lined with fancy stores and filled with elegant shoppers. Today, it's a brash thoroughfare of souvenir stores and noisy cafes. Houses on the bank stand in water, Venice-style.

To the east of the Dam, where the original Amstel River dam stood, and where the Royal Palace is now, is the (in)famous Red Light District, where government-licensed prostitutes sit behind windows, waiting for customers. A block to the west of Damrak is Nieuwendijk, a pedestrians-only shopping street that becomes Kalverstraat on the far side of the Dam. Follow Kalverstraat to the end, and you're at Muntplein beside the old Mint Tower. Cross over Muntplein and continue in the same direction to reach Rembrandtplein, one of the city's main nightlife areas, beyond which lies the old Jodenbuurt (Jewish Quarter).

The other main nightlife area is Leidseplein, on the outer, Singelgracht canal. Leidseplein is close to the end of Leidsestraat, a car-free (but not tram-free) shopping street leading from Singel to Singelgracht.

The wide, green Museumplein, site of the city's three most famous museums -- Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, and Stedelijk Museum -- is a 5-minute walk along Singelgracht from Leidseplein (note that much of the Rijksmuseum is closed until 2013 for refurbishment, but the Stedelijk should be re-opened by 2011.

An area worth a special mention is the Jordaan (pronounced yor-daan), an old neighborhood filled with inexpensive restaurants, offbeat stores, and small galleries. The Jordaan lies between Brouwersgracht, Prinsengracht, Looiersgracht, and Lijnbaansgracht. To get there, turn right off Damrak at any point between Centraal Station and the Dam, then cross over Prinsengracht.

Returning to Centraal Station -- and everybody winds up back there eventually -- if you exit the station at the rear you'll be standing on the city's fast-changing Waterfront, which is the setting for much of the city's redevelopment effort for years to come.

The Principal Squares

There are six major squares in central Amsterdam that will be the hubs of your visit:

The Dam is the city's heart and the site of the original dam across the Amstel River that gave the city its name. Encircling the square are the Royal Palace, the Nieuwe Kerk national church, and department stores, hotels, and restaurants. On the square is the Nationaal Monument of World War II.

Leidseplein and the streets around the city's signature nightlife square glitter with restaurants, nightclubs, music venues, a casino, and movie theaters. It's a fun scene even if hustle and bustle reigns over style.

Rembrandtplein is another entertainment scene, and bustles with eateries and places to grab a drink.

Museumplein is the main cultural center, containing the Rijksmuseum, Concertgebouw, Van Gogh Museum, and Stedelijk Museum, all in close proximity.

Waterlooplein, another cultural focal point, is home to the Muziektheater and a superb flea market.

Muntplein is a busy transportation hub, easily recognizable for its crown-topped 17th-century Munttoren (Mint Tower), one of the city's original fortress towers.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Sightseeing and entertainment attractions in the Netherlands often offer senior discounts, but some places offer these reductions only to Dutch citizens. Be sure to bring along your passport or other identity document when you want to sign up for reduced-rate fares on public transportation, and other senior benefits. A group of local seniors run so-called Mee in Mokum guided tours on foot through the city -- "Mokum" is the name Amsterdam's once-thriving Jewish community used for the city, and it's still used informally by the populace. The name means something like Going With Amsterdam. People of any age can go on the tours, which are not exclusively for seniors, but are more likely to be run at a slower pace than standard tours. The guides speak English and know their beloved city inside out, as you might expect from people who have lived there for decades. Tours depart Tuesday to Sunday from the David & Goliath restaurant, Kalverstraat 92 (at the Amsterdams Historisch Museum); they last 2 to 3 hours and cost 10€. Visit www.gildeamsterdam.nl for info.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

The Dutch live in a tiny country that’s so heavily populated they need to recover land from the sea, and they take protection of their environment very seriously. More than 60 percent of household waste is sorted, collected, and recycled. As a visitor, you are expected to play your part in this process and not toss stuff without checking if it’s recyclable or reusable.

Generating power from the wind—an age-old Dutch skill—is growing apace. Holland has thousands of wind turbines on land and several hundred offshore, producing almost 20 percent of the country's energy.

Cities in Belgium and The Netherlands all have excellent integrated public transportation systems; using them helps reduce greenhouse-gas emissions. Even if you rent a car for getting around, most main car-rental firms now offer green options, from renting a low-emissions car to making a payment to a CO₂-offset program.

All those bicycles you see in Amsterdam take cars off the street. Anyone who’s not riding a bike is likely to be walking or getting around by tram, and visitors are encouraged to do likewise. There are many places where you can rent bikes, and public transportation is easy to use and efficient .

Getting There

By Plane -- Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (tel 0900/0141 for general and flight information, 31-20/794-0800 from outside Holland; www.schiphol.nl; airport code AMS), 14km (9 miles) southwest of Amsterdam is pronounced Skhip-ol and is universally regarded as one of the best airports in the world for its ease of use, its massive duty-free shopping center, and its outpost of the Rijksmuseum. Located southwest of the city center, it is the main airport in The Netherlands, handling the country’s international arrivals and departures.

There are three terminals close together and imaginatively numbered 1, 2, and 3. Moving walkways connect passengers with the Arrivals Hall and Passport Control, Baggage Reclaim, and Customs. Conveniences like free luggage carts, currency exchange, ATMs, restaurants, bars, shops, baby rooms, restrooms, and showers are all on tap. Beyond Customs is Schiphol Plaza, a one-stop destination that combines tourist office, transport ticket office, rail station access, Hotel Schiphol Airport and Mercure Hotel Schiphol Terminal for transit passengers, a shopping mall, bars and restaurants, restrooms, baggage lockers, airport and tourist information desks, car-rental, and hotel-reservation desks all in the one location. Bus and shuttle stops plus a taxi stand are just outside the terminal.

By Car -- A network of major international highways crisscrosses The Netherlands. European expressways E19, E35, and E231 converge on Amsterdam from France and Belgium to the south and from Germany to the north and east. These roads also have Dutch designations; as you approach the city they are, respectively: A4, A2, and A1. Amsterdam’s ring road is A10. Distances between destinations are relatively short. Traffic is invariably heavy and delays are frequent but road conditions are otherwise pretty good, service stations are plentiful, and highways are plainly signposted.

By cruise ship -- Cruise-ship passengers arrive in Amsterdam at the Passenger Terminal Amsterdam, Piet Heinkade 27 (tel 020/509-1000; www.ptamsterdam.nl; tram 26), on the IJ waterway within easy walking distance of Centraal Station, where all modes of transport can be picked up to travel anywhere in the city.

By ferry -- DFDS Seaways (tel 0871/522-9955 in Britain, 44/330-333-0245 outside the UK; www.dfdsseaways.co.uk) has daily car-ferry services between Newcastle in northeast England and Ijmuiden, west of Amsterdam on the North Sea coast. The overnight travel time is 15.5 hours. From IJmuiden, you can go by bus to Amsterdam Centraal Station.

P&O Ferries (tel 08716/642121 in Britain, 020/200-8333 in Holland; www.poferries.com) has daily car-ferry service between Hull in northeast England and Rotterdam Europoort. The overnight travel time is 10 to 11 hours. Ferry-company buses shuttle passengers between the Europoort terminal and Rotterdam Centraal Station, from where there are frequent trains to Amsterdam Centraal Station.

Stena Line (tel 08447/707-070 in Britain; www.stenaline.co.uk) has a twice-daily car-ferry service between Harwich in southeast England and Hoek van Holland (Hook of Holland) near Rotterdam. The travel time is 6 hours, 45 minutes for the daytime crossing, and 7 1/2 hours overnight. Frequent trains depart from Hoek van Holland to Amsterdam Centraal Station.

By Train -- Rail services to Amsterdam from other cities in the Netherlands and elsewhere in Europe are frequent and fast. International trains arrive at Centraal Station from Brussels, Paris, Berlin, Cologne, and other German cities, and from the main cities in Austria, Switzerland, Italy, and Eastern Europe. Nederlandse Spoorwegen (Netherlands Railways; www.ns.nl) trains arrive in Amsterdam from towns and cities all over The Netherlands. Service is frequent to many places around the country and trains are modern, clean, and punctual. Schedule and fare information on travel by train is available online.

The burgundy-colored Thalys high-speed train, with a top speed of 300kmph (186 mph), connects Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam, and (via Brussels) Cologne. Travel time from Paris to Amsterdam is 3 hours, 20 minutes, and from Brussels 1 hour, 50 minutes. For Thalys information and reservations, call tel 32-070/667-788, 0.17€ per minute, or visit www.thalys.com. Tickets are also available from railway stations and travel agents.

On Eurostar high-speed trains (top speed 300kmph/186 mph), the travel time between London St. Pancras Station and and Amsterdam is just under 4 hours. All trains stop in Rotterdam and Brussels’s Bruxelles-Midi Station (no change of train required). For Eurostar reservations, call tel 08432/186186 in Britain; tel 44/1233-617-575 from outside the UK; www.eurostar.com.

By Bus --International coaches arrive at the bus terminal at Sloterdijk rail station (Metro: Sloterdijk) in the south of the city. Flixbus (www.flixbus.com; tel. 49/30-300-137-300) and National Express (nationalexpress.com; 08717/818-181).operate bus service between London Victoria Bus Station and Sloterdijk rail station. Travel time is around 12 hours.

From Sloterdijk, you can go by train or Metro to Centraal Station, or by Tram 19 to the Museumplein area and to connecting points for trams to the center city. For the Leidseplein, take tram 19.

When to Go

"In season" in Amsterdam means mid-April to mid-October. The tourist season peaks in July and August, when the weather's at its finest. Climate, however, is never really extreme at any time of year; if you favor off-season travel, you'll find the city every bit as attractive during these months. Not only are hotels and restaurants cheaper and less crowded (with more relaxed and personalized service), but some very appealing events also take place. The bulb fields near Amsterdam, for example, burst with color from April to mid-May.

The Weather

Summertime temperatures in Amsterdam don't often rise above 75°F (24°C), making for a pleasant, balmy climate.. Summertime temperatures don't often rise above 75°F (24°C), making for a pleasant, balmy climate. July and August are the best months for in-line skating in Vondelpark, soaking up rays on cafe terraces, dining alfresco in the evening, and going topless on the beach at Zandvoort. September usually has a few weeks of fine late-summer weather.

Mean precipitation -- and the precipitation in Holland can be pretty mean -- is high enough that rain shouldn't come as a surprise. Although the temperature rarely dips below freezing in winter, remember that Amsterdam and much of Holland is below sea level, making fog, mist, and dampness your too-frequent companions. This damp chill often seems to cut to the bone, so in colder months, layer yourself in Gore-Tex or something similar. There are, however, plenty of bright but cold days in winter, and if the temperature falls far enough, canals, rivers, and lakes freeze to become sparkling highways for skaters throughout the city and the surrounding countryside. Throughout the year, some rain can be expected. Average annual rainfall is 63 1/2 cm (25 in.). Most of it falls November through January, though substantial showers can occur year-round.

What To Pack -- Some pointers on being prepared for Amsterdam's often unpredictable weather: First, invest in a fold-up umbrella and hope you never have to use it; likewise, carry a raincoat (with a wool liner for winter). Second, pack a sweater or two (even in July) and be prepared to layer clothing at any time of year. Don't worry: You're allowed to leave space for T-shirts, skimpy tops, and sneakers.

If you own a pair of in-line skates or roller skates, or even one of those dinky self-propelled scooter things, consider bringing them along. You can go around in the bicycle lanes while saving money and staying fit.

The Best Times to Go

There's no worst time to visit Amsterdam: The city provides year-round stimulation to the brain's pleasure center. High season is the spring tulip season (early Apr to mid-May), and school vacations are in July and August. The city is very busy at both times, which means hotel rooms are hard to find and bargains don't exist at all (but who wants to tiptoe through the fallow tulip fields in November, or sit on a sidewalk cafe terrace in a snowstorm?). If you're planning to travel during high season, book several months in advance. Summer is also the best time for cycling, which is an essential Dutch experience; try a canal bike if you're fearful about going on the roads.

In winter, room rates are generally cheaper, and cafes and restaurants are less crowded and feel more genuine.You'll be able to stand longer in front of Rembrandt's The Night Watch and your favorite Van Gogh, and you might get a chance to go skating on the canals. You also get a better view of the canals, because the trees bordering them shed their screens of leaves in winter. As an added bonus, the lights from all those canalside windows, whose curtains never close, glow with Japanese-lantern charm on the inky surface.

Holidays

A Dutch holiday can add a festive note to your trip, particularly if it involves a parade or special observance. But expect banks, government offices, shops, and many museums to be closed, and public transportation to operate on Sunday schedules for the following holidays: New Year's Day, Good Friday, Easter Sunday, Easter Monday, Koninginnedag (Queen's Day: Queen Beatrix's official birthday is Apr 30), Ascension Day (Thurs, 40 days after Easter), Pentecost Sunday (7th Sun after Easter), Pinksteren (Pentecost Mon), Christmas Day, and December 26.

In addition, there are two World War II "Remembrance Days," neither of which is an official holiday, though some establishments close: Herdenkingsdag (May 4) honors all those who died in the war; Bevrijdingsdag (May 5) celebrates the Liberation.