Planning a trip to Croatia

Regions in Brief

There are many ways to designate Croatia’s regions—coastal and inland, islands and mainland, northern and southern—and the best way to get a feel for the diverse charms of its geography is to look at each from a variety of perspectives.

Dalmatian Coast -- Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast is characterized by extremes. From Zadar in the north to Dubrovnik in the south, the terrain that extends westward from the dramatic backdrop of the rugged Dinaric mountain range becomes a sun-washed 3-D mosaic of red-tiled roofs, graceful bell towers, lush vegetation, and shimmering beaches as the land rolls toward the sea. The coast is also a repository of history, with very visible Roman and Venetian influences. Add to that a mild Mediterranean climate that supports a thriving fishing industry and an agricultural economy rich in olives and grapes, and you have the formula for tourism gold. Offshore, Croatia’s many islands (1,168 to be exact, if you include all the islets and reefs, although only 47 are inhabited) lure boating and watersports enthusiasts, sun worshipers, Europeans on vacation, and celebrities trying to get away from it all. They are part of Dalmatia’s mystique and some of its most valuable assets.

The picture isn’t so rosy on the Dinaric’s eastern side. There the sun’s rays become harsh spotlights that emphasize the landscape’s stark and rocky personality, a struggling economy, and the lingering effects of war.

Inland Croatia -- This area reflects a melting pot of cultures, each distinct, but all Croatian. The country’s largest city, Zagreb, is here, a thriving metropolis of more than one million people. Zagreb is the economic and political center of this part of Croatia, which is a gateway to the spectacular natural wonders of the south and to the hilly, winegrowing regions of the north. The extreme northern part of the country is home to many Hapsburg-inspired towns and castles set at regular intervals across the rolling farmland east of Zagreb, through Slavonia, and all the way to the Danube. The countryside here flattens out into farmland and historic towns and villages that have been the subject of battles for centuries (the area was severely affected by the 1991 war).

Istria -- Istria is a peninsula that hangs off the northwestern end of Croatia into the northern Adriatic. Istria is Croatia’s de facto league of nations: It is the part of the country that abuts Western Europe, and it has a complex identity thanks to cultural osmosis and a long history of occupation by Romans, Venetians, Austro-Hungarians, Italians, and Yugoslavs prior to becoming part of independent Croatia. Part of Istria’s charm is its foresight in letting the region’s coastal towns and interior medieval settlements retain their personalities through the centuries. These places still possess unique customs and architecture that are a strong draw for people both outside and within Croatia. Istria knows how to be an excellent host to visitors, who have been flocking to the region’s seaside resorts and Roman ruins from Western Europe (and now from everywhere) for more than a century. Istria also is known as one of Croatia’s food and wine capitals thanks to the excellent vintages produced in its vineyards, the rich supply of truffles found in its forests, and the refined cuisine served in its restaurants, a mix that reflects the region’s cultural past, present, and future.

Croatia’s 5,830km-long (3,625-mile) coastline and the waters around its scattered islands are a diver’s paradise. Marine life, reefs, parts of sunken cities, and rock formations abound, but shipwrecks are often the biggest lure for deep-sea explorers. For complete information on diving opportunities in Croatia, go to www.ronjenjehrvatska.com, which has English texts and a complete list of diving centers and sites. Some of Croatia’s most popular submerged wrecks and their locations are listed below.

Vis

USAF Boeing B-17: This World War II military plane settled on the ocean floor off the island’s south coast in 1943 at a depth of almost 75m (250 ft.). The aircraft's fuselage and engines were damaged in a bombing raid on Maribor, and it sank while attempting a landing on Vis. For experienced divers.

“Vassilios T”: This Greek cargo ship went down in a storm in 1939 and is now at rest off the coast of Komiža at depths of 20m to 55m (66 ft. to 180 ft.). The ship’s coal cargo is visible in the cargo holds and around the vessel. Underwater lamps are a plus for viewing the ship's interior. For intermediate divers.

Brač

“Meja”: This ship is located in 40m (130 ft.) of water off Brač, east of the isle of Mrduja. Diving is possible in the cabin section, and there is a sunken wall that can be visited on the return from the wreck. For experienced divers.

Pula

“Baron Guatsch”: A torpedo took out this Austro-Hungarian passenger ship in 1914 just north of the Brijuni Islands. It has four decks and is at rest 40m (130 ft.) down on a sandy bottom. Only two of the decks are available for exploration, but the ship has become a habitat for a variety of fish, shells, and plants. For experienced divers.

Cavtat

Greek cargo ship flotsam and jetsam: The 2,000-year-old shipwrecks are long gone, but their cargo is strewn over a large area off Cavtat. Amphorae are plentiful and marine life is rich and diverse. There is a “newer” cargo ship from a.d. 400, 30m (100 ft.) down, but it is protected by a steel cage. For beginners diving with a registered club.

Kvarner Gulf -- The Kvarner Gulf is home to some of Croatia’s largest islands and biggest resorts. Croatia’s largest port, and one of the country’s biggest transportation hubs (Rijeka) are also here, as is one of its most developed holiday cities (Opatija). The entire area skirts the Kvarner Gulf, which lies between Istria and Dalmatia. It is a mélange of stark island landscapes, sophisticated resorts, excellent beaches, and some of the most forbidding mountains in Croatia. The islands of Krk, Cres, Lošinj, Pag, and Rab are easily accessed from Rijeka and other points on the mainland, and they’re especially busy with tourists during the summer months. Croatia’s wild and wooly northeastern wind (bura) is the only deterrent to enjoying this part of the country. When the bura blows, tourism goes.

Tips for Families

If you have trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away may seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing the world through younger eyes.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.myfamilytravels.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning, and Family Traveller (www.familytraveller.com), which offers advice to anyone travelling with babies, children, and teenagers. TravelWithYourKids.com (www.travelwithyourkids.com) is a comprehensive site written by parents for parents, offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

Calendar of Events

The festivals mentioned in this section, unless otherwise specified, fall on different dates every year. Inquire at the Croatian National Tourist Office (www.croatia.hr) or at local tourist offices for event contact information and for an updated calendar. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check Frommers.com, where you’ll find a roster of what’s happening in cities all over the world.

January

New Year. Croatians enter the new year with massive firework displays in major cities like Zagreb, Split, and Dubrovnik, followed by partying until dawn.

February

Rijeka Carnival. This pre-Lenten celebration begins in mid-February and ends at midnight on Shrove Tuesday. Although celebrated all over the country, Rijeka has the most lavish event, with parades, masquerades, and merrymaking similar to New Orleans’s Mardi Gras. www.rijecki-karneval.hr.

Feast of St. Blaise. Catholics all over the world honor St. Blaise on February 3 with the blessing of throats. In Dubrovnik, where St. Blaise is the city’s patron saint, the celebration is more elaborate, culminating with a parade.

April

Easter. In Catholic Croatia, Easter is a major religious celebration. On Hvar, the night before Good Friday locals stage the Procession of the Cross, walking a 25km (16 mile) circular route from village to village following a heavy wooden crucifix, concluding at sunrise.

Music Biennale Zagreb. An international festival of contemporary music, the Biennale is held in April in odd-numbered years in Zagreb. Contemporary classical musicians are the focus. See www.mbz.hr.

May

Sudamje. In Split, May 7 is a public holiday to celebrate the day of Sv. Duje (St. Domnius), the city’s protector. Stalls set up along the seafront sell wooden handicrafts and a solemn mass is held at the cathedral.

Croatia Boat Show. This annual five-day event sees some of the world’s smartest yachts mooring up along the seafront in Split, attracting nautical professionals and amateurs alike.

Contemporary Dance Week. Zagreb is the main stage for this dance and choreography showcase, but parallel events are held in Rijeka and Karlovac. See www.danceweekfestival.com.

June

Animafest Zagreb. This world festival of animated film is a six-day celebration of cartoons. See www.animafest.hr.

International Children’s Festival. Šibenik is the setting for this annual festival encouraging creativity in children. Programs showcasing youthful talents are presented in venues across the city from mid-June to early July. See www.mdf-sibenik.com.

Pula Film Festival. The Arena, Pula’s ancient amphitheater, hosts this annual two-week festival of film, which was founded way back in 1953. See www.pulafilmfestival.hr.

Valamar Jazz Festival. In Poreč, this five-day event sees internationally acclaimed jazz musicians performing in the atrium of the basilica and on St. Nicholas Island. See www.valamarjazz.com.

INmusic Festival. Staged at Lake Jarun in Zagreb, this three-day fest attracts big names from the worlds of rock and urban music. See www.inmusicfestival.com.

July

Motovun Film Festival. The tiny medieval town of Motovun, in the heart of Istria, hosts an annual five-day festival in late July to celebrate independent films. See www.motovunfilmfestival.com.

Musical Evenings of Sveti Donat. From early July through mid-August, this festival stages classical music recitals in the Church of St. Donatus in Zadar. See www.donat-festival.com.

Split Summer Festival. From mid-July to mid-August, this festival takes over Split’s historic core with exhibitions, concerts, dance, theater, and opera performed in the Peristil of Diocletian’s Palace. See www.splitsko-ljeto.hr.

Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Well-known international artists perform during this annual event, held from early July to late August. Dubbed “Libertas,” the festival has gone on every year since 1950, even during the war. See www.dubrovnik-festival.hr.

Jazz Is Back. In the Istrian hill town of Grožnjan, this festival finds world-class jazz musicians playing under the stars. See www.jazzisbackbp.com.

International Folklore Festival. For a week in mid-July, Zagreb comes alive with dancing, song, musical performances, workshops, and exhibitions in celebration of folk culture in Croatia and surrounding countries. See www.msf.hr.

August

Vukovar Film Festival. Founded in 2007, this annual five-day festival brings European art house cinema to seven locations around the town of Vukovar. See www.vukovarfilmfestival.com.

Avvantura Festival Film Forum Zadar. Held the last week of August, this festival focuses on European film, with projections at open-air locations in Zadar’s old town. See www.filmforumzadar.org.

Faros Marathon. On the last Saturday of August, this 16km (10 mile) swimming marathon attracts international athletic stars to Stari Grad on Hvar. See www.farosmarathon.com.

September

Korkyra Baroque Festival. This one-week event, staged at various locations in Korčula’s Old Town, attracts international performers from the world of Baroque music. See www.korkyrabaroque.com.

Varaždin Festival of Baroque Music. Listen to baroque music in one of Europe’s most baroque cities from mid-September through early October. Performances are mostly in Varaždin’s churches. See www.vbv.hr.

October

Marunada (Chestnut Festival). For three weekends in October, the tiny town of Lovran near Opatija celebrates everything chestnut. There’s food, merrymaking, and even cook-offs, all in honor of the chestnut and its many culinary uses. See www.tz-lovran.hr.

Zagreb Marathon. A full and half marathon are run each October in Zagreb. See www.zagreb-marathon.com.

Zagreb Film Festival. This one-week movie festival focuses on short, feature, and documentary films, with projections at various indoor locations around the city. See www.zagrebfilmfestival.com.

November

Martinje (St. Martin’s Day). Besides being a church feast day, November 11 is also the day in Croatia when the new wine is blessed and “tested” in unlimited amounts. The ceremony is conducted in the grape-growing regions of north Croatia, around Zagreb, and begins with a song in honor of St. Martin. It ends with a prayer for a good year for all. When possible, the blessing is in a vineyard, but wherever it is held, it is followed by a party that includes eating, drinking, and singing well into the night. Most Croatian restaurants mark the occasion by offering special dinners (much as the French do when celebrating the Beaujolais nouveau).

December

St. Nicholas Day. Komiža, on the island of Vis, honors the town’s patron saint on his feast day of December 6 with a huge party that opens with the burning of an old fishing boat in front of St. Nicholas Church in Vis Town. Go to www.dalmatia.hr for more information.

New Year’s Regatta. This year-concluding event (December 28 to December 31) features small-boat races off the island of Hvar.

Tips on Accommodations

Hotel room prices in Croatia vary considerably with location and time of year. Generally, hotel prices in inland cities and towns are the most stable, while hotels in tourist areas along the coast sometimes publish as many as seven rate schedules based on time of year.

In this guide, we have quoted prices for August (or sometimes Jul–Aug), as this is peak season, when the majority of visitors come to Croatia. You can expect prices to be approximately half that in winter (if the hotel stays open all year), and 30 percent lower in spring and fall.

Also note that although the official currency in Croatia is the kuna (kn), most hotel prices are posted in euros (€), so as to make them quickly translatable for foreigners.

Croatian hotel rates almost always include breakfast (usually a continental buffet), while private accommodations almost always do not. Private accommodations rented through individuals are the least expensive and can cost as little as $20 per person per night. In a word: bargain.

BB, Don’t Forget My Number

BB means bez broja (without number). This is quite common in Croatia, particularly if the place is a well-known church or restaurant. If you’re tracking down an address with a street name followed by bb and you’re having trouble finding it, you may need to ask a local for directions.

The cost of one night in a double room at a 5-star hotel in central Zagreb will compare favorably with the cost of a similar room in either New York or London. But all the same, bear in mind that Croatia is no longer a cheap option.

Croatia now has more than 600 star-rated hotels that are a combination of ‘60s and ‘70s high-rises; stately, ornate, turn-of-the-20th-century buildings; and, more recently, family-run boutiques. Since 2000, Croatia has been in a “renovate and rebuild” mode, and many establishments have completed or are now undergoing updating and upgrading.

Hotels -- Most hotels in Croatia carry international star ratings from 1 to 5, which relate primarily to amenities—in some cases, the star ratings can seem a little arbitrary. In reality, 1-star hotels are non-existent and 2-star properties are few and far between. An en-suite bathroom is now a requirement for 2-star hotels, which generally offer basic but comfortable accommodation. A 3-star room has a private bathroom (usually with a shower, not a tub), TV, and perhaps other amenities, though this category is unpredictable and can be a value or a rip-off depending on management. Most 4-star hotels will offer a room with a larger bathroom, possibly with a tub; good-quality furnishings; little extras, such as toiletries; and other facilities like a fitness center, restaurant, and pool. In the luxury category, the number of 5-star hotels has increased since 2000, most notably in Dubrovnik. These of course offer the highest level of comfort, amenities, and contemporary design, and in some cases rival the best the U.S. has to offer.

Almost all rooms and apartments in Croatia now have Wi-Fi, and most have air-conditioning, though this should not be necessary in traditional Dalmatian buildings, where thick stone walls keep interiors cool even in summer.

Croatian chains tend to be local: Arenaturist in Pula, Maistra in Rovinj, Solaris in Šibenik. These generally manage either package hotels in resort areas or former grande dames in various stages of repair that range from crumbling to completely refurbished.

For more information about the small family-run hotels, visit the Association of Family and Small Hotels of Croatia website (www.omh.hr).

Private Accommodations -- Private rooms and apartments are found in most tourist destinations in Croatia and generally offer good deals. These are now strictly controlled, and divided into four categories, with star ratings. Some proprietors will refuse to rent for fewer than four nights, or if they do, they will charge extra. Licensed private accommodations are best booked through local tourist agencies, but you can find and book private villas and rooms via www.adriatica.net, too. Alternatively, the international booking site Airbnb (www.airbnb.com) lists a host of properties in Croatia.

Sobe -- Another tier of accommodations in Croatia is the soba (room) or sobe (rooms) in private homes. These generally are cheaper than those procured through agencies, but they are unregulated and can be anything from a suite of rooms with a private bathroom to a bed in an attic. Sobe signs are often found outside houses in smaller towns. Sometimes they’re “advertised,” usually by older men and women who await new arrivals at ferry, bus, and train stations, shouting “sobe, rooms, camera!”

Campgrounds -- Camping is very popular in Croatia, with over 300 registered campsites, 90 percent of which are on the coast and islands, close to a beach. Some of the larger campsites include restaurants, sports facilities, laundries, and general stores. Campsites are rated with a star system from 1 to 4. For a full list of registered campsites, visit the Croatian Camping Union website at www.camping.hr.

FKK Campgrounds -- Croatia has more FKK campgrounds (nudist camps) than any other European country. Most of these camps are outside cities in the northern Adriatic resort areas (Vrsar, Rovinj, Poreč, and Krk). You will find them on www.camping.hr under “Naturist.”

Youth Hostels -- The Croatian Youth Hostels Association (www.hfhs.hr) has a network of youth hostels in Zagreb, Zadar, Dubrovnik, Pula, and a few other locations. Most of these are rather basic and usually have check-in and checkout times and rules similar to those enforced in college dorms. Since 2010, an increasing number of boutique hostels have opened, offering a more contemporary approach to design and management, and often including private en-suite rooms in addition to dormitories. Several of these hostels are listed in this guide.

Staying Connected

Staying connected with the folks back home is easier than ever thanks to innovations in telecommunications. No matter what kind of hardware you use, you’ll need to know (initially) which numbers to punch in and their proper sequence.

To make international calls to Croatia:

     1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

     2. Dial Croatia’s country code, 385.

     3. Dial the area code, omitting the first zero. For Zagreb, for example, the area code is 01, so you just dial 1.

     4. Dial the phone number.

To make international calls from Croatia:

     1. Dial the access code 00.

     2. Dial the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64).

     3. Dial the area code.

     4. Dial the number.

For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., from Croatia you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

To call from one area code to another within Croatia -- Dial the Croatian area code, including the zero, followed by the phone number.

To make a local call within a Croatian area -- Dial the phone number. No codes necessary. Local calls cost about 5kn per minute.

For directory assistance -- Dial tel. 11880 or 11888 if you’re looking for a number inside Croatia, and dial 11802 for numbers in all other countries.

Toll-free numbers -- Toll-free numbers in Croatia start with 0800. Warning: Calling a 1-800 number in the United States from Croatia is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Croatian SIM Cards

To reduce the cost of calls and text messages during your stay in Croatia, you might consider buying a Croatian SIM card for your mobile phone. All Croatian mobile phone numbers begin with the digits “09.”

The mainmobile phone network providers each offer special deals to foreign visitors:Hrvatski Telecom (www.hrvatskitelekom.hr/visiting-croatia); Tele 2 (www.tele2.hr/welcome-to-croatia); and Vipnet (www.vipnet.hr/tourist-offer/en).

Smartphones

Advances in smartphone technology have fueled a boom in the use and ownership of these one-stop communication-media wonders. However, their services come at a price. Whether your phone of choice is a BlackBerry, an iPhone, or some other brand, you should check how it works with European carriers, so as to avoid nasty surprises when your bill comes in.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Gay & Lesbian Travelers

In Roman Catholic Croatia, gays are tolerated but not celebrated. The country legalized homosexuality in 1977, but overt homosexual behavior is frowned upon in general and may be met with hostility in rural areas. Except for a few places in Zagreb, gay clubs are almost nonexistent, though some nightclubs and discos are patronized almost exclusively by homosexuals. During the summer, many gays frequent FKK (nudist) beaches, the city of Dubrovnik, and the island of Hvar. As in many other cities worldwide, the last Saturday in June is Gay Pride Day in Zagreb.

Although many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers, few include Croatia on their list of destinations. The IGLTA/International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (www.iglta.org; tel. 954/630-1637) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and it offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators. For Croatia-specific tips, check out the Friendly Croatia website www.friendlycroatia.com, which includes destination guides for gays.

Gay Travel (www.gaytravel.com; tel. 858/504-7132) is an agency specializing in the LGBT community and helping them find gay-friendly destinations. Zagreb and Dubrovnik are included in the agency’s portfolio.

Out Adventures (www.out-adventures.com; tel. 866/360-1152) specializes in LGBT travel. In 2014, it included a 10-day Croatia Gay Cruise & Tour in its portfolio.

Out Traveler (www.outtraveler.com) is an LGBT travel site that posts occasional articles about Croatia.

British travelers should click on the “Travel” link at thegayuk.com for advice and gay-friendly trip ideas.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or can be ordered from any online bookseller: “Spartacus International Gay Guide, 2014–2015” (Briand Bedford; www.spartacusworld.com), and the “Damron” guides (www.damron.com), with separate annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Getting There

By Plane

Croatia Airlines flies routes between Croatia and Europe’s major hubs, among them Amsterdam, Athens, Belgrade, Berlin, Brussels, Copenhagen, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, London, Munich, Paris, Prague, Rome, Sarajevo, Vienna, and Zurich. Zagreb (ZAG) and Dubrovnik (DUB) are Croatia’s biggest gateways and Lufthansa is the largest international carrier that serves them. Both Lufthansa and Croatia Airlines are members of the Star Alliance, which includes United Airlines. At press time, no U.S. carriers were flying directly into Croatian airports.

Tip: It’s wise to book your flight to Croatia on United or other Star Alliance member airline (Austrian, Swiss, SAS, and so on) if only to smooth luggage handling. If your initial carrier is a Star Alliance member, bags will be checked through to your destination, a boon when catching connecting flights. (If you start your trip on a nonmember carrier, you might have to pick up your bag, go through customs, carry your bags through the airport to the connecting gate, and recheck them with Croatia Airlines or other connecting airlines.)

Besides Croatia Airlines, numerous European discount carriers (such as easyJet, Jet2.com, Monarch, and Ryanair) serve Croatia from various European cities.

Departure Tips

In 2003, the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. E-tickets have made paper tickets nearly obsolete. Passengers with e-tickets can beat the ticket counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or online check-in from their home computers. Online check-in involves logging on to your airline’s website, accessing your reservation, and printing out your boarding pass—the airline may even offer you bonus miles to do so! If you’re using a kiosk at the airport, bring the credit card with which you booked the ticket, or bring your frequent-flier card. Print out your boarding pass from the kiosk and proceed to the security checkpoint with your pass and a photo ID. If you’re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-row seat, you will be able to do so using most airline kiosks. Even the smaller airlines are employing the kiosk system, but always call your airline to make sure these alternatives are available. Security checkpoint lines vary in length from country to country and from airport to airport. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time, tell an airline employee; the airline will provide a wheelchair.

If you have metallic body parts, a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security, except for folks escorting children or passengers with disabilities.

In terms of what you can and can’t carry on, the rules keep changing, but in general sharp things such as knives are out, nail clippers are okay, and beverages must be purchased after you clear security. Liquids are limited to 3-ounce containers that fit in one, 1-quart plastic bag. Keep this bag outside your suitcase to show screeners as you pass through security.

Note: On Croatia Airlines and most European airlines travelers are allowed only one carry-on bag. Check size and weight requirements for each of the airlines you book with. Limits on carry-on weight and dimensions set by Croatia Airlines and most European airlines are lower than limits on U.S. airlines.

Airport screeners may decide that your checked luggage needs to be searched by hand. You can purchase luggage locks that allow screeners to open and relock a checked bag if hand searching is necessary. Look for Travel Sentry–certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores. These locks, approved by the U.S.’s TSA, can be opened by luggage inspectors with a special code or key. For more information on the locks, visit www.travelsentry.org. If you use something other than TSA-approved locks, your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your luggage.

The TSA has issued a list of prohibited items; check its website for details.

By Car

The highways that connect Croatia to its neighbors (Slovenia, Hungary, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Serbia, and Montenegro) are good and getting better as miles of new pavement are poured. This is especially true of the span between Ljubljana and Zagreb, a route that now takes just 2 hours to complete. The route from Budapest to Zagreb runs across Croatia’s northern border and is also popular. It takes about 5 hours to reach Zagreb (362km/225 miles) from the Hungarian capital.

Visitors coming from Italy and Austria must pass through Slovenia to get to Croatia’s border, but Slovenia’s roads are excellent, too.

Note: If you choose the route through Slovenia, be aware that Slovenia requires tariff stickers for cars using Slovenian roads. In 2014, prices for weekly stickers for motorcycles were 7.50€ and cars were 15€. Even if you are just passing through, you’ll have to buy the sticker.

In December 2007, neighboring E.U. countries Slovenia and Hungary joined the Schengen Area, a group of 26 European countries that have abolished passport requirements and other forms of border control at their common borders. Croatia is not yet a Schengen member, but is working to apply to join the group in July 2015. Once it becomes a member, crossing national lines to and from Croatia should be seamless.

Even as European Union border checks disappear, travelers should be sure to carry passports, insurance cards, and any rental car papers (including the car’s registration). This is especially true if you are going through Bosnia-Herzegovina, Serbia, or Montenegro, countries that are not yet fully in the E.U. membership pipeline.

Car rental -- Car rental in Croatia is expensive, and it can be tricky. Even if you use a global agency like Hertz or Avis, it is best to reserve a car by contacting a local agency in the city where you plan to rent, rather than through the agency’s parent company or online. It’s also a good idea to take the “full insurance” package offered with your car rental, even though it can add considerable cost. Warning: In most cases, liability coverage from your domestic auto insurance policy will not cover you on vehicles rented outside the U.S. That is also true of the auto coverage that comes with most major bank cards. Check with your insurance agent and credit card company to be sure.

You will be given a chance to inspect your vehicle with your car rental rep, and you should be certain the rep documents any existing scratches or other damage before you take the keys. Any dings incurred thereafter, not to mention major damage, will be charged to you at full rate.

Note: Most cars rented in Croatia are stick shift. Vehicles with automatic transmissions are scarce and you will pay extra if you need this feature.

By Train

Trains connect most major Croatian cities north of Split, but there is no train service to cities between Split and Dubrovnik in southern Dalmatia.

Zagreb does have convenient railway links with Austria, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, and Switzerland, but the links to and from other European countries can be extremely time-consuming. The train ride from Paris to Zagreb, for example, takes 18-plus hours, while a rail trip from Frankfurt to Split will take almost 24 hours.

If you must get to Croatia by rail from another European city, check schedules, fares, and details on rail passes at Rail Europe. For trains within Croatia, check Croatia Railways.

By Ferry

There is a year-round regular overnight ferry service from Ancona in Italy to Split in Dalmatia. Other less frequent lines include Bari in Italy to Dubrovnik, and Venice in Italy to several coastal towns in Istria. In the Ancona–Split case, you hop aboard the ferry around 9pm and arrive in Dalmatia just as the sun is rising. Routes, fares, schedules, and booking information are available from the respective companies listed. Note: Fares and schedules are subject to frequent change.

Blue Line International — From April through October, this ferry line has daily overnight service between Ancona and Split. Round-trip deck passage for two without a vehicle starts at 76€ in low season. A deluxe cabin for two with a vehicle runs from 338€ round-trip in low season.

Jadrolinija — Croatia’s national ferry line has three international routes, which run year-round, though the frequency of service is downscaled in winter. In peak season (Jul–Aug), Jadrolinija ships travel almost every night between Ancona and Zadar, Ancona and Split, and Bari and Dubrovnik. Round-trip deck passage for two adults without a vehicle is approximately 144€ for the overnight trip between Bari and Dubrovnik; the fare on the same route for two and a vehicle plus an external cabin with a toilet is 452€. Note that these are low-season prices. Prices are the same for Ancona–Split and slightly less for Ancona–Zadar.

SNAV — In addition to the options above, from late April through early October, the Italian company SNAV operates a car ferry between Ancona and Split. A fast “Jet” catamaran used to run as well, but this service was discontinued in 2013. Prices and schedule information are available on the website.

Venezia Lines — This Maltese company runs fast catamarans (foot passengers only) from mid-April through early October between Venice and Rovinj, Poreč, and Pula on Istria’s western coast. Current schedule and fare information is available on the website.

Tips for Women Travelers

Women do not face any particular travel difficulties in Croatia They are treated with courtesy and respect in both big cities and small towns. However, female visitors who go out in public looking unkempt might earn a few disapproving looks as Croatian women take great pride in their appearance and what they wear. Women should leave the sloppy p.j. bottoms and flip-flops at home and opt for a put-together look to fit in. If any church visits are planned, remember that women are expected to wear tops with sleeves and bottoms that fall beneath the knees. Churches and some museums post their dress codes and they will turn you away if you are not in compliance (the same applies to men).

For general travel resources for women, go to www.frommers.com/planning.

Social Etiquette

When entering churches, monasteries, or other religious buildings in Croatia, visitors should dress respectfully. For both men and women, shoulders and thighs should be covered.

Health & Insurance

Staying Healthy

HealthCare Availability

Croatia provides its citizens with excellent, all-inclusive healthcare. Foreign tourists do not have to pay for medical services if there is a signed health insurance convention between Croatia and their home country—nationals from E.U. member countries should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) with them to benefit from this agreement. Healthcare costs for tourists from a country that does not have a signed convention with Croatia are paid directly by the user at the time of service.

No special vaccinations are required to enter Croatia. Contact IAMAT, the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers(www.iamat.org; tel. 716/754-4883,or 416/652-0137 in Canada) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you’re visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov; tel. 800/232-4636) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, also offers helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Common Ailments

Bites & Stings -- Mosquitoes found in most parts of Croatia generally do not carry malaria. Use an insect repellent containing DEET. Bees and wasps are commonplace, especially on some islands, and where beekeeping is an industry. Be especially aware of this if you are allergic to bee venom, and always carry an epinephrine autoinjector (EpiPen) for emergencies.

Dietary Red Flags -- Croatian food generally is not spicy, so gastric sensitivities are rarely triggered by the national cuisine. However, if you have fish or shellfish allergies, be sure to ask about ingredients, especially when dining on the coast. Restaurants serving vegetarian choices are becoming more commonplace, especially in larger cities, and you can find a cheese burek or plain pasta almost anywhere.

Sea Urchins & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Sea urchin needles and sharp rocks pose the greatest health hazards to swimmers in Croatia, especially around rockier beaches. It is best to wear rubber swim shoes both on the beach and in the water. These are available in most resort areas and in towns near the sea. Snake sightings are rare but can occur in wooded areas, especially in spring. If you are bitten, immobilize the area of the bite and get medical help as quickly as possible.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- Visitors should be aware that summer in Croatia can be very hot, especially in the southern regions. Air-conditioning is not prevalent in private accommodations or outside of the larger cities. Sunstroke and heat exhaustion can overtake the unwary quickly. Be sure to drink lots of water and get to a shady area or into air-conditioning if you feel dizzy and tired or if you develop a severe headache. These may be signs of heat exhaustion. Sunstroke is more serious and may require emergency medical attention. Symptoms can include fainting and/or agitation. Always carry enough sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 for all members of your party.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away From Home

Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—otherwise they won’t make it through airport security. Bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Don’t forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses. Carry the generic names of prescription medicines, in case a local doctor is unfamiliar with the brand name. Note: In Croatia, all medicines, even over-the-counter medications like aspirin, are sold only at pharmacies; other drugs require a Croatian doctor’s prescription.

Additional emergency numbers are listed in “Fast Facts”.

Safety

Croatia generally is very safe for travelers. Theft and crimes against persons are not commonplace. However, you should exercise caution anytime you’re out and about in an unfamiliar area after dark wherever you are.

In some areas, land mines left over from the 1991 war can pose hazards to unsuspecting travelers. According to www.landmines.org, more than 700,000 land mines were buried in Croatia, mostly in eastern Slavonia, around Zadar in northern Dalmatia, with some near Dubrovnik in southern Dalmatia. The government has been demining the country since the end of the War for Independence in 1995, but finding and destroying the ordnance is a slow process. Usually, suspected land-mine areas are marked with red-and-white skull-and-crossbones signs (in Croatian), but you shouldn’t tramp around any part of the countryside unless you have a local guide, especially in the above areas. Land mines kill a few Croatians every year. These are mostly hunters who disregard posted signs, or farmers who are impatient to till unswept fields.

Money

Cro(KN)      US$           Can$           UK£               Euro €          Aus$         NZ$

1                18¢            19¢            11p                 0.13€          19¢          21¢

This guide lists prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com or www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Currency

The Croatian national currency is the kuna (kn), which comes in notes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1,000. One kuna equals 100 lipa, and coins with values of 5, 10, 20, and 50 lipa and 1, 2, and 5 kuna are in circulation. To convert prices in kunas to current prices in U.S. dollars, go to www.xe.com/ucc.

Following Croatia’s E.U. membership, some Croatian businesses, most notably hotels and tourist agencies, began to express their prices in euros and kuna, though euros are not officially accepted. Foreign currency can be exchanged at post offices, banks, and exchange offices. Numerous hotels and travel agencies also will exchange currency, but beware of the service charges, which can be as high as 3 percent.

Warning: Kunas and euros are very similar in look but dissimilar in value: One euro is worth seven times as much as one kuna. Be sure you separate the two and keep the currencies in separate compartments of your wallet.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash in Croatia is from an ATM (automated teller machine, aka Bankomat in Croatia). The Cirrus (www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look on the back of your bank card to see which network you’re on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home, and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at another bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions ($5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they’re rarely more than $3). On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks’ ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. In Croatia, credit cards are accepted by most hotels and restaurants in larger cities, but they generally are not accepted for private accommodations or in rural areas. In addition, some establishments that accept credit cards will offer a discount if you pay in cash.

You can get cash advances on your credit card at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. If you’ve forgotten your PIN, or didn’t even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or some other personal information. Warning: Credit card companies tend to charge rather large (some might even say exorbitant) fees for providing cash advances.

Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad, most banks assess a 2 percent fee above the 1 percent fee charged by Visa or MasterCard or American Express for currency conversion on credit charges. There is also often a service charge on foreign transactions. Even so, credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you factor in things like hefty ATM fees and higher traveler’s check exchange rates (and service fees).

Visa, MasterCard, Diners Club, and American Express credit cards are accepted in most Croatian establishments that accept plastic. The Maestro debit card is also widely accepted.

Croatia is an affordable country compared to other European nations, though Dubrovnik stands out as far more expensive than other Croatian destinations. Hotel rooms and rental cars will be your highest expenditures, but in general, food, entertainment, and public transportation costs are a little below those of nearby E.U. countries, such as Austria and Italy.

What Things cost in Croatia

Airport taxi         150kn–250kn

Cappuccino         10kn–16kn

Coca-Cola           20kn–25kn

Half-liter beer      20kn

Ice-cream cone    7kn per scoop

Pasta dish            50kn–80kn

Pizza                   50kn–80kn

3-course dinner    150kn

Prices outside metropolitan areas in general will be 20 to 40 percent lower.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports & Visas

E.U. member country nationals can now enter Croatia with just a personal ID. However, all other foreign nationals (anyone from outside the E.U.) need a valid passport for entrance to Croatia. Citizens of the U.S., Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Israel, and Singapore do not need visas for tourist/business trips of fewer than 90 days within a 6-month period. A visa is required and should be obtained in advance for stays over 90 days. South Africans do require visas, even for short stays. As of April 2013, in preparation for E.U. membership, Croatia changed its law regarding Russians, who now need visas, too.

For more information on visas, visit the Republic of Croatia Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs website, www.crovisa.mvep.hr. Here you will find an online visa application form (available in various languages), and if you’ve already applied, you can check your application status.

U.S. citizens can visit the U.S. State Department website (www.travel.state.gov) and go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” for an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Croatia

Visitors can bring 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, 1 liter of spirits, 2 liters of wine, and 2 liters of liqueur duty-free. Foreign visitors can bring in boats without duty or taxes if the vessels are for private use while in Croatia and if they take them home when they leave.

What You Can Take Home from Croatia

U.S. citizens who have been away from the U.S. for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. A flat duty rate is charged on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Citizens returning to the U.S. should have their receipts or purchases handy to expedite the declaration process. Note: Anyone who owes duty is required to pay upon arrival in the United States, either by cash, personal check, government or traveler’s check, or money order; in some locations Visa and MasterCard are also accepted.

To avoid paying duty on foreign-made personal items owned before leaving the U.S., bring along a bill of sale, insurance policy, jeweler’s appraisal, or receipts of purchase.

With few exceptions, fresh fruits and vegetables cannot be brought into the United States from another country. For specifics on what is and is not allowed, visit the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP) website (www.cbp.gov) and go to “Travel” and click on “Know Before You Go.”

For a clear summary of Canadian rules, visit the Canada Border Services Agency website at www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca.

U.K. citizens should refer to the HM Customs & Excise website (www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian nationals should visit the Australian Customs & Border Protection Service website (www.customs.gov.au).

Those from New Zealand should check out the New Zealand Customs Service website (www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

For information on medical requirements and recommendations, see “Health”.

Escorted & Package Tours

Special-interest tours abound in Croatia. Tour operators in and outside the country can arrange tours to suit almost any specification.

Adriatica.net -- This general tour operator is based in Zagreb and puts together stays in many of Croatia’s lighthouses and farmhouses, in addition to arranging sailing vacations (www.adriatica.net).

Archaeological Institute of America -- This archaeology-oriented group offers a 9-day “Idyllic Islands and Majestic Shores of Croatia & Montenegro” tour, and a 12-day “Fabled Sarajevo and the Glorious Coast of Croatia & Montenegro” tour (www.archaeological.org/tours/programs).

Martin Randall -- A cultural holiday group thatruns art, architecture, archaeology, and history tours, Martin Randall puts on a 14-day “Western Balkans” tour that includes Zagreb and Osijek, and an 8-day “Dark Age Brilliance” tour that includes Poreč. Note that this group’s flights leave from London, so U.S. travelers have to make their own way to the U.K. (www.martinrandall.com).

Secret Dalmatia -- ADalmatia-based company run by local experts and enthusiasts, Secret Dalmatia offers signature tours and custom experiences, including gourmet cuisine, wine tasting, historic site and national park visits, and sailing(www.secretdalmatia.com).

Smithsonian Journeys -- This renowned institutionoffers several multi-country tours and cruises, taking in sections of Croatia’s Adriatic coast, including lectures on the area’s culture and history (www.smithsonianjourneys.org).

Food & Wine Tours

Increasingly, Croatian entrepreneurs are marketing local products by developing wine and olive roads, as well as special excursions for truffle hunting and wine dinners.

As with many things, Istria is a little ahead of the other regions in terms of developing its potential. The Istria Tourist Board has set up the excellent Istra Gourmet website (www.istria-gourmet.com), listing the region’s top culinary experiences, such as wine roads and wineries open for tasting, olive oil producers, truffle-hunting providers, and top restaurants.

Culinary Croatia -- This establishment arranges one-week food tours, as well as one-day wine trips and cooking classes, primarily in Dalmatia, but also in Istria and Zagreb (www.culinary-croatia.com).

Dubrovnik Wine Tours -- This tour companyarranges one-day wine tasting excursions from Dubrovnik and three-day vineyard tours to Pleješac and Korčula with a British–Croatian sommelier (www.dubrovnikwinetours.com).

Eat Istria -- This Pula-based company offers one-day wine tours and one-day or weekend cookery classes (www.eatistria.com).

Taste of Adriatic -- This Rijeka-based travel agency specializes in food and wine tours, including agritourism, mainly in Istria (www.tasteofadriatic.com; tel. 095/894-9735).

Zagreb Bites -- Specializing in private one-day wine tours departing from Zagreb, this company also offers guided half-day food and drink trails within the capital (www.zagrebites.com).

An excellent website for an overview of Croatia’s best food and wine venues (plus news and itineraries) is www.tasteofcroatia.org.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermined hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many travelers derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours—whether they’re navigated by bus or boat—let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or sweat the details. Escorted tours will take you to the maximum number of attractions in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They’re particularly convenient for people with limited mobility, and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you’ll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure. They often focus on the heavily traveled sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Countless tour operators offer packages to Croatia. The following are highly regarded and reliable:

Abercrombie and Kent -- This international luxury travel company offers both tailor-made and pre-arranged itineraries. The company’s portfolio includes a 9-night “Classic Croatia” tour, taking in Split, Trogir, Salona, Hvar Town, Ston, Dubrovnik, and Cavtat (www.abercrombiekent.com).

Adriatic Tours -- A San Pedro–based company founded in 1974, Adriatic specializes in Croatia and offers both escorted and hosted tours to almost all regions of the country. The company also puts together religious tours and cruises (www.adriatictours.com; tel. 310/548-1446).

Croatia Travel Agency -- This New York–based company offers a full complement of itineraries for Croatia, running from 8- through 14-day adventures (www.croatiatravel.com; tel. 800/662-7628).

Kompas -- A Florida-based company specializing in Central and Eastern Europe, Kompas offers a range of short city stays (Zagreb, Split, and Dubrovnik), escorted tours through Croatia and neighboring countries, and Adriatic cruises (www.kompas.net; tel. 954/771-9200).

Private Guides -- If you have the resources, consider booking a private English-speaking guide who can not only plan a custom itinerary for you, but also arrange transport, transfers, and admittance to otherwise inaccessible sites. The best way to find a reliable local guide is to contact the respective city’s tourist board (listed in each section of this guide).

For more information on escorted general-interest tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, see www.frommers.com/planning.

Tips for Senior Travelers

In most Croatian cities, reduced-price admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions is available for “retired persons,” generally considered to be those aged 65 and over. Otherwise, there are no breaks for seniors, perhaps because Croatia’s senior population is so active and vibrant.

Several reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. ElderTreks (www.eldertreks.com; tel. 800/741-7956, or 416/558-5000 outside North America) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path and adventure-travel locations, including Croatia, for travelers 50 and older.

When to Go

Summer, specifically July and August, is the busiest time on Croatia’s coast and islands. This is the country’s “season,” a time when the sun is the hottest, the sea the bluest, and the traffic at its most endless. The Croatian coast is at its best—and worst—during midsummer. Hotel room rates top out, restaurant tables are always full, and crowds can be overwhelming. This is the period that makes or breaks many businesses that depend on a season’s tourism for a year’s income, and it can be tough on unsuspecting travelers. Much of the madness is due to traditional European vacation schedules, which coincide with the coast’s glorious summer weather. Boating enthusiasts, tour groups, and independent travelers from all over the world make up the rest of the traffic.

Weather

Weather in Croatia can be generally divided into two climates. Northern Croatia has a Continental climate, with average temperatures ranging from near freezing in January to about 77°F (25°C) in August. The coastal areas have more of a Mediterranean climate, with average temperatures ranging from the mid-40s Fahrenheit in January to 100°F (38°C) or more in August. Spring and autumn are pleasant and mild along the coast; winter inland can be cold and snowy.

The bottom line is that in July and August, good weather is almost a certainty and tourism is in full swing, but prices and availability on the coast can be prohibitive. Conversely, in the interior, summer crowds are minimal and prices can reach their lowest levels. Zagreb and other interior cities can be real bargains in summer because many residents will be on the coast, leaving the towns less crowded than usual. (Accordingly, many Zagreb restaurants and shops may be closed.) A word of warning: The weather on the coast is usually nice, the sea warm, and the prices lower in May, June, September, and October, but some establishments, especially those on the islands, might be shuttered and some ferry routes might be canceled or on reduced schedules.

Croatia’s Average Temperatures (°F/°C)

Interior

HIGH           38/3    43/6     52/11     61/16    70/21     76/24    79/26    77/25      70/21    59/15  49/9    40/4

Coastal

HIGH           50/10   52/11   56/13     63/17    72/22     79/26   85/29     85/29     77/25   68/20   58/14   52/11

Tips for Student Travelers

If you are a student, you should apply for an International Student Identity Card (ISIC; www.isic.org), which qualifies you for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides basic travel insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 16 months.

You can apply for the card online or from STA Travel (www.statravel.com; tel. 800/781-4040 in the U.S. and Canada). Check the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide.

If you’re no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people. It entitles you to some discounts.

Travel CUTS (www.travelcuts.com; tel. 800/667-2887) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents.

Getting Around

By Plane

Croatia Airlines has a near monopoly on flights that travel among Croatia’s seven airports: Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Osijek, Pula, and Zadar. The best-served routes are Zagreb–Split and Zagreb–Dubrovnik, which both see several flights daily.

By Bus

Almost every town in Croatia has a bus station, and the network of bus routes makes this form of transportation an excellent, economical option for travel within Croatia. Express routes on updated highways facilitate travel among major cities and buses stop at almost every village in the country, though schedules might be inconvenient for those with limited time.

By Ferry

Ferry/catamaran travel is a way of life on Croatia’s coast. There is no other way to get to the islands (except Pag and Krk, which are linked to the mainland via bridges). Jadrolinija is the major ferry operator. In summer, ferry schedules are beefed up to handle the increased traffic, but not necessarily aligned for the multiple connections necessary for convenient island hopping. Weather is another trip buster: Whenever the bura (the fierce northwestern wind that regularly hammers the area) blows, ferries may be delayed, and catamarans sidelined altogether.

Note: When planning your trip, do not underestimate the time it takes to travel by ferry. Besides calculating the water crossing, build in time to get to the ferry port, to wait in line (if you have a car, you might have to queue for hours), and to get from the port to your final destination. Check ferry schedules carefully, as not all routes operate every day.

By Car

Driving is the best method for seeing the real Croatia—even the islands. However, between car rental (a subcompact starts at 50€ per day) and gas at unprecedentedly high prices (11kn per liter in the summer of 2014), private car transportation can be quite expensive. During July and August, it is important to reserve a rental car well before you arrive.

You will pay extra for each authorized driver besides the primary renter. Every driver must be 22 or older to rent a car in Croatia (some companies stipulate 25 and up for cars more powerful than 80 kW/110 hp).

Local agency M.A.C.K. has offices in Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik, and Cavtat, and offers excellent rates. Reps speak English, provide maps and directions, and are very helpful. Go to www.rent-a-car.hr for more information. Global agencies Hertz, Avis, Thrifty, and Budget all have offices at the Dubrovnik and Zagreb airports, plus other city locations.

Croatia’s main highways (singular, autocesta; plural, autoceste) are well-marked and well-maintained. Secondary roads vary in quality and can range from excellent to unmarked dirt tracks. Gas stations are readily available on the autoceste, along main highways, and outside smaller towns. These are usually “hyper” gas stations, in that most have attached restaurants, convenience markets, and picnic areas. Gas station restrooms are generally immaculate in Croatia, and some even offer shower facilities. Stations are typically open from 7am to 7pm daily, until 10pm in summer.

Maps that note gas stations across the country are available, and a wise investment if you plan on driving long distances. They’re usually available at gas stations. See www.ina.hr and www.hak.hr for details.

Note: Almost every city and town in Croatia seems to be converting intersections with traffic lights to roundabouts with varying rules for entering and exiting, so proceed with caution.

Warning: Police are strictly enforcing Croatia’s drinking and driving laws and posted speed limits. If you are a driver under 24 years of age, zero tolerance (0.0 percent blood alcohol) applies. For those 24 and over, a limit of 0.05 percent is the rule.

The speed limit in urban areas is 50kmph (30 mph) unless otherwise marked, 80kmph (50 mph) on secondary roads, and 130kmph (80 mph) on highways. You’ll have to pay fines on the spot. If you’re stopped for any reason, you will be expected to produce a valid driver’s license, car registration papers, a rental contract, and an insurance certificate. Watch for speed traps along the coastal highway and in rural towns and villages.

By Train

Croatian Railways (www.hzpp.hr) is an efficient way to travel between Zagreb and towns in the northern and inland parts of the country. The overnight train from Zagreb to Split is outfitted with couchettes, meaning you can get a good night’s sleep and wake up at your destination. All of Croatia’s major cities except Dubrovnik are connected by train service.

Tips for Single Travelers

On package vacations, single travelers often are hit with a “single supplement” in addition to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers or find a compatible roommate from one of many roommate-locator agencies.

The IndependentTraveler.com (www.independenttraveler.com) is intended to help those traveling alone to plan their trip, and includes a forum where you can ask for advice from other solo travelers.

Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips. Backroads (www.backroads.com; tel. 800/462-2848) offers “Singles + Solos” active-travel trips to destinations worldwide.

The British company One Traveller (www.onetraveller.co.uk; tel. 0044/1760-722-011) arranges holidays for mature singles, including the eight-day “Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast” tour.

Contiki (www.contiki.com) arranges tours for ages 18 to 35, including a “Croatian Island Hopper,” which attracts a mix of nationalities and plenty of singles.

For more information, check out Eleanor Berman’s classic “Traveling Solo: Advice and Ideas for More Than 250 Great Vacations, 6th Edition” (Globe Pequot), updated in 2008.

For more information on traveling single, go to www.frommers.com/planning.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

In Croatia, as in other parts of Europe, many hotels, restaurants, and sites are not equipped to provide easy access for visitors with disabilities. However, public restroom facilities in train and bus stations, airports, and some hotels usually have been modified to accommodate wheelchairs. In general, museums, churches, private accommodations, ferries, shuttle boats, and local trams have not. There are a few exceptions and those are noted throughout this book. Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

Organizations that offer a vast range of assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (www.mossrehab.com; tel. 800/CALL-MOSS); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; www.afb.org; tel. 800/232-5463); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; www.sath.org; tel. 212/447-7284). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows travelers to preselect topnotch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (www.flyingwheelstravel.com; tel. 507/451-5005) and Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com; tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339).

Flying With Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an “Avis Access” program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly accessible-travel magazine “Emerging Horizons” (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by online and by subscription ($16.95/year U.S.).

The “Accessible Travel” link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to travelers with disabilities.

British travelers should contact DisabledHolidays.com (www.disabledholidaydirectory.co.uk; tel. 0161/804-9898) for a listing of wheelchair-friendly hotels and resorts, including several in Dubrovnik.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Croatia’s country code is 385.

Business Hours --  Banks are generally open Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm and Saturday 8am to noon. The bigger post offices work Monday to Friday 7am to 8pm, and Saturday 7am to 1pm. The smaller ones, for example on the islands, might only operate Monday to Friday 7 to 11am. Public offices are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 4pm. Shops and department stores stay open from 8am to 8pm and to 2 or 3pm Saturday without a break. Increasingly, stores in malls are open on Sunday, usually from 10am to 6pm. Most supermarkets remain closed on Sunday, as do butchers and bakeries, though in popular resorts along the coast there will often be a few small general stores open for Sunday shopping in summer.

Drinking Laws -- The minimum age for purchasing liquor in Croatia is 18, but there is no minimum age for consuming it. Croatia has strict laws regarding drinking and driving; the legal blood alcohol limit is 0.05 percent. In 2003, the country briefly implemented zero tolerance, but found it to be unworkable and amended the law in 2008. Package liquor (wine, beer, spirits) can be purchased in markets, wine stores, and some souvenir shops. Wine can also be bought directly from producers in some rural wine-making areas.

Driving Rules -- See “Getting There & Getting Around”.

Drugstores -- Ljekarne are open from 8am to 7pm weekdays and from 8am to 2pm on Saturday. In larger cities, one pharmacy in town will be open 24 hours on a rotating basis.

Electricity -- Croatian electricity is 220v, 50Hz; the two-prong European plug is standard.

Embassies & Consulates --  U.S.: Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, Zagreb (www.zagreb.usembassy.gov; tel. 01/661-22-000. Australia: Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 11, Zagreb (www.croatia.embassy.gov.au; tel. 01/489-12-00). Canada: Prilaz Gjure Dezelica 4, Zagreb (www.canadainternational.gc.ca; tel. 01/488-12-00). Ireland: Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, Zagreb (www.ie.mvep.hr; tel. 01/456-99-64). U.K.: Ivana Lučića 4, Zagreb, and Obala Hrvatskog Narodnog Preporoda 10/III, Split (www.gov.uk/government/world/croatia; tel. 01/600-91-00).

Emergencies --  tel. 112. Calls to this number are free of charge. This is the number to call if you need assistance from police, firefighters, mountain rescue, or an ambulance. Roadside assistance is tel. 1987. (When calling from abroad or by cellphone, call tel. 385-1-987.) The national headquarters for Search and Rescue at Sea is tel. 9155. Weather forecasts are www.meteo.hr and road conditions are www.hak.hr/en.

Etiquette & Customs -- Appropriate attire: Croatians, especially Croatian women, take pride in their appearance. In cities, both men and women usually dress in business casual. On the coast and countryside, the “dress code” is more relaxed. You never will see Croatians wearing immodest or sloppy clothes in public places. If you visit museums or churches anywhere, plan to wear tops with sleeves and pants that go to at least the knee.

         Gestures: Dobar dan (good day) is the way Croatians generally greet each other. Handshakes are appropriate for first meetings and between business associates. Good friends will kiss on both cheeks in the European style.

         Avoiding offense: Religion and politics are topics to avoid universally. In Croatia, stay away from discussing Croat-Serb relations or anything related to the War for Independence unless you know who you’re talking to, what you’re talking about, and have lots of time for debate.

Gasoline (Petrol)  --  Gasoline and diesel are readily available all over Croatia and almost all stations take credit cards. In the summer of 2014, gas was running about 11.08kn per liter including taxes. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. That translates to 42kn or $7.37 per U.S. gallon of gas.

Holidays -- Croatian shops and banks are closed on public holidays, which are: January 1, New Year; January 6, Epiphany; March or April, Easter Monday; May 1, Labor Day; May (Thurs after Trinity Sun), Corpus Christi; June 22, Anti-Fascist Day; June 25, Croatian Statehood; August 5, Thanksgiving; August 15, Assumption; October 8, Independence Day; November 1, All Saints Day; December 25 and 26, Christmas.

Hospitals -- Zagreb: Klinička Bolnica “Sestre Milosrdnice” (Vinogradska cesta 29; tel. 01/378-71-11). Split: Klinička Bolnica Split (Spinčićeva 1; tel. 021/556-111). Dubrovnik: Opča Bolnica Dubrovnik (Toka Mišetića bb; tel. 020/431-777).

Insurance -- Information on traveler’s insurance, trip-cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling is at www.frommers.com/planning.

Language -- Most residents of major Croatian cities speak English. Most movie houses and programs on Croatian TV are in English with Croatian subtitles. For more specific vocabulary, see the “Langenscheidt Universal Croatian Dictionary.”

Legal Aid -- Consult your embassy if you get into legal trouble in Croatia.

Mail -- It costs 4.60kn to send a postcard to the U.S., and 7.60kn to send a letter weighing up to 50 grams ( 1.76 oz.). The post office is fairly reliable, but very slow. It takes about 10 days to 2 weeks for postcards to arrive in the U.S. from Croatia and up to a month for regular mail and packages. Other carriers are available (DHL, FedEx, UPS) in major population centers, but the cost is prohibitive.

Newspapers & Magazines -- English-language newspapers and magazines are a rarity at Croatian newsstands, even in Zagreb. Some of the better hotels supply select U.S. and U.K. publications. Algoritam bookstores in Zagreb, Split, and Dubrovnik are the only common outlets for English-language publications. Look for the “International Herald Tribune” and “The Guardian” if you crave English-language news.

Passports -- Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes three weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). Keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you’ll pay a higher processing fee.

         For residents of the United States: Whether you’re applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at www.travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

         For residents of Australia: Applications are available at local post offices or at any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

         For residents of Canada: Passport applications can be made online (www.passport.gc.ca); by post (Passport Canada Program,
Gatineau QC K1A 0G3,
Canada); or directly at a Passport Canada Office.

         For residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport by referring to www.dfa.ie/passports-citizenship. If you are traveling on short notice (3–10 days) and need a passport urgently, go to www.passportappointments.ie. Once your passport has been processed, you will be able to collect it directly from either the Dublin or Cork Passport Office.

         For residents of New Zealand: Pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/463-93-60, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

         For residents of the United Kingdom: To obtain an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit the nearest passport office, major post office, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Office at tel. 0300/222-00-00 or refer to www.gov.uk/government/organisations/hm-passport-office.

         For more information, see www.frommers.com/planning for information on how to obtain a passport.

Police -- Call tel. 192.

Smoking -- In May 2009, Croatia passed a law banning smoking in all public buildings. However, that was modified four months later to give small bars and cafes the option of allowing or not allowing on-premises smoking. The ban still applies to restaurants and larger bars and cafes. However, it is normal for people sitting at outdoor tables to smoke, especially if they are drinking or have just finished their meal.

Taxes -- Croatia’s PDV (VAT) was raised to 25 percent from 23 percent in March 2012. Refunds of VAT are made to non-E.U. citizens (when they leave the country) for goods purchased in Croatia for amounts over 740kn with a tax check form. Salespeople will provide this form when you make a qualifying purchase. For further information, go to www.carina.hr.

Time -- Croatia is 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, 6 hours ahead of New York (Eastern Standard Time), and 9 hours ahead of Los Angeles (Pacific Standard Time). Daylight saving time is observed from late-March to late-October, when clocks are advanced 1 hour.

Tipping -- A 10 percent to 15 percent gratuity is expected in upscale restaurants. Otherwise, it is considered polite to leave any coins from your change on the table in cafes and restaurants. A 10 percent tip for other service providers (taxi drivers, hotel personnel, and others) is the norm, as is a tip for anyone who helps you carry your luggage or conducts a tour.

Toilets -- There are no freestanding public restrooms in Croatia, but most restaurants and public buildings have them and will let you use them if you make a purchase.

Water -- Tap water is potable throughout Croatia.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

The most beautiful countries also tend to be the most conscientious when it comes to taking care of the natural environment. Most visitors to Croatia are immediately impressed by the country’s air quality, water cleanliness, and unspoiled landscapes and seascapes.

However, with the rise in the number of supermarkets selling pre-packaged goods, waste management is an ever-increasing problem, especially on the islands. The state is trying to make the public more aware of the need to reduce waste and to recycle.

Bottle Collection

In 2006, Croatia’s Ministry for Environmental Protection introduced a policy that has eliminated virtually 100 percent of glass and plastic-bottle litter in the country. Under the plan, people can bring any glass or plastic beverage bottle to any market larger than 200 sq. m. (2,153 sq. ft.) and they’ll receive 50 lipa, or half a kuna (approximately 6kn to the U.S. dollar), for each bottle returned, even if they purchased the drink at another store.

It is not unusual to see people searching garbage bins for bottles to return, and collecting them in big plastic bags. In fact, some bottle collectors are so keen they’ll watch over as you drink from a bottle so they can take it as soon as you’ve finished.

The success of the program has been dramatic. Croatia estimates that more than two billion bottles have been collected since the return policy went into effect—that’s virtually every bottle sold in the country. Consequently, it is extremely rare to see glass or plastic bottles marring the landscape anywhere in Croatia, with none on the beach, in the rivers, or on the streets. Bonus: Many new jobs have been created in the recycling industry thanks to the program.

To earn a Blue Flag, a facility has to pass several tests. Water quality is sampled 20 times in summer and must reach the higher of two standards set in the organization’s Bathing Water Directive. Beach management criteria include cleanliness, wheelchair access, dog control, first aid, safety, and environmental information. Marina management criteria include provisions for information about the environment, adequate containers for trash and special waste, clean toilets and washing facilities, and safety equipment. Beaches and marinas are monitored both before and during the award year to ensure that all criteria are being fulfilled and that high standards are being maintained. For more information go to www.blueflag.org.

Smoking Ban

In May 2009, Croatia issued a total smoking ban in all public places, including cafes, restaurants, bars, and clubs. (The government backpedaled on the directive four months later, after small business owners complained they were being ruined en masse.) The ban is now optional for smaller establishments; others can accommodate smokers as long as they provide a private, separately ventilated space for them. But in a country where almost everyone smoked just five years ago, this is progress.

Birds & Bees

Croatia fiercely protects its natural resources and wildlife. It maintains eight national parks, and countless arboretums, botanical gardens, wetlands, and animal habitats. Bird-watchers in Croatia delight in multiple opportunities to observe a variety of feathered phenoms.

The Lonjsko Polje Nature Park in north-central Croatia is home to numerous wetlands and bird sanctuaries. The historic settlement of Čigoć and villages in the surrounding area not only comprise habitats for hundreds of species of insects, fish, frogs, and birds (including Čigoć’s famous storks), they also protect collections of ethnographic artifacts, including chimney-free houses made of centuries-old timbers.

The Kopački Rit Nature Reserve in Slavonia on Croatia’s eastern border is the country’s most fascinating wetland. Besides huge bird populations, the area is beginning to attract cyclists, hikers, and wine lovers thanks to the redevelopment of bike trails, removal of land mines, and a rebirth of the region’s vast vineyards.

The Adriatic Dolphin Project has research centers on the islands of Lošinj and Vis, working to study and protect the population, ecology, genetics, acoustics, and habitats of bottlenose dolphins and other cetaceous species of the Adriatic. This is an E.U. Phare project, and it includes a marine education center on Lošinj with permanent and temporary exhibits, interactive multimedia presentations, lectures, and education programs for visitors. Go to www.blue-world.org for more information.

Eco-conscious Hotels

Hotels are gradually taking steps to protect the environment, not least because claiming to be eco-friendly has become seen as a smart marketing ploy.

Almost all the bigger hotels in Croatia have installed smart rooms with on-demand electricity that works only if you insert your key card in a central slot. In a bid to reduce unnecessary machine-washing, many hotels no longer replace all the bath towels daily. If you want a towel replaced, you should leave it on the bathroom floor—if you hang it up to dry, the maid will presume that you are happy to reuse it.

The Radisson BLU in Dubrovnik was built with a green roof and an HVAC system that is cooled by the ocean. The Kempinski Adriatic uses nothing but stored rainwater to keep its 18-hole golf course green. The hotel also grows its own herbs for use in its restaurants.

Agritourism (working farms offering accommodation and/or meals) is another growing sector of Croatian hospitality. Travelers can enjoy an eco-conscious experience in a rural environment, with meals prepared from local seasonal produce, much of which is organic.

An excellent resource for booking eco-friendly accommodation is the U.K.-based group Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com).

Renewable Energy

During the Yugoslav era (1945–1991), hydroelectric power was developed in Croatia, and it still provides a considerable proportion of the country’s energy needs. Since 2004, Croatia has also embraced wind power to produce energy—in Dalmatia, most notably on the island of Pag, you’ll see wind turbines dotting the horizon. With its sunny climate, there is also potential for further developing solar power in Croatia.

The sustainable travel industry in Croatia is in its infancy, but conservation and environmental management are not. Croatia always has taken care of its land, water, and air, and all indications are that it will continue to do so.

In addition to the resources for Croatia listed, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

*  Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravel.org) also promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

*  In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.com) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making vacations sustainable.

*  In Canada, www.greenlivingonline.com offers extensive information on how to travel sustainably, including a travel and transport section. It also profiles the best green shops and services in Toronto, Vancouver, and Calgary.

*  In Australia, the national body that sets guidelines and standards for eco-tourism is Ecotourism Australia(www.ecotourism.org.au).

*  Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), and TerraPass (www.terrapass.org) provide info on “carbon offsetting,” for balancing out the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

*  For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit Whale and Dolphin Conservation (us.whales.org).

*  Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.goabroad.com/volunteer-abroad and www.idealist.org.