This corner trattoria is not on any tourist's short list, because it is utterly unnoticed and intends to remain so. Good news for the rest of us, since the cacciucco and the triglie alla livornese (red mullet in a marinara sauce) are as authentic as they come. Families gather on a Sunday, filling up its dozen tables to enjoy a plate of delicious but unassuming spaghetti all'orata (spaghetti with sea bream in a marinara sauce), with fresh fish that only had to make a 50m (164-ft.) hop from the port. Skip dessert for a gelato along the esplanade instead.