More of a napkin-and-tablecloth place than many in this informal port city, this small, wood-paneled dining room hung with maritime memorabilia is the setting for fine cooking complemented by attentive, even old-fashioned service. Primi usually include coastal classics like spaghetti alle vongole (with clams) or riso nero (risotto blackened with cuttlefish ink). Mains are very much catch dependent -- there's nothing from the freezer here -- but if you're lucky the giant house fritto misto (mixed seafood fry) will include baby squid and fresh anchovies.