The brainchild of super-chef Yves de Camdeborde, this small and scrumptious bistro is still bringing in the crowds almost a decade after it opened. During the day, it serves relatively traditional fare, say, a slice of lamb with thyme sauce or maybe the panier de cochonaille, a basket of the Camdeborde family’s own brand of smoked meats. On weeknights, it’s a temple to haute cuisine, with a five-course tasting menu. You’ll need to reserve several weeks in advance for this meal, which changes every night and is nonnegotiable—the chef decides what you are going to eat. There are no reservations at lunch or on the weekends, when the bistro menu is served from noon to 11pm, so arrive early or be prepared to wait.