The brainchild of super-chef Yves de Camdeborde, this small and scrumptious bistro is still bringing in the crowds more than a decade after it opened. Camdeborde is often credited with starting the bistronomy movement in the 1990s when he walked out on the Crillon and opened up his own bistro where he could offer the French equivalent of “down home” cooking, using the best ingredients and charging affordable prices. During the day, the Comptoir is a bistro, serving relatively traditional fare, like a slice of lamb with thyme sauce or panier de cochonaille, a basket of the Camdeborde family’s own brand of sliced smoked ham, dried sausage, and other pork-based delectables. On weeknights, it’s a temple to haute cuisine, with a tasting menu that includes as many as five different dishes. Reserve months in advance for this fixed-price meal, which changes nightly. Arrive early or be prepared to wait at lunch or on weekends for the bistro menu, as the restaurant does not accept reservations for those meals.