220km (136 miles) S of Sydney

Very much a supply town as well as a fishing center, especially for tuna, Ulladulla is a pleasant stopover on your journey south. This is also a good place to stock up on supplies from local supermarkets. On the outskirts of town (just to the south) are a series of saltwater lakes with good fishing, though you'll have competition from the pelicans. Inland is the giant Morton National Park, marked by the peak of Pigeonhouse Mountain. The 3- to 4-hour walk to the top and back starts at a parking lot a 30-minute drive from Ulladulla. The going is steep at first, but the trail levels out as it crosses a sandstone plateau. The reward is a magnificent view of peaks and ocean.

Several side roads worth exploring spur off between Ulladulla and Batemans Bay. These lead to the tiny villages of Bawley Point and Kioloa, where holiday cottages nestle between isolated beaches, gum forests, and green patches studded with gray kangaroos.

At pristine Pebbly Beach in Murramarang National Park, 20 minutes south of Ulladulla, kangaroos actually wander around the beach and adjacent campsite, or gather on the grassy dunes to graze. It's a good area for birding, too.