Hotels

Barcelona may be one of the most expensive cities in Spain, but prices at its first-class and deluxe hotels can still be a bargain compared to those of other major European cities like Paris and London. This makes Barcelona a good place to splurge, especially with many hotels holding the line on raising their prices (or even pushing them down) because of stiff competition. Be sure to look online for weekend package deals and always ask about any special offers when you call to reserve.

Safety is an important factor when choosing accommodations and a former deterring factor with cheaper hotels was that they tended to be in less desirable parts of town. Today, however, those neighborhoods aren't quite what they used to be, and budget hostales are often found alongside high-standard hotels in barris once regarded as distinctly un-chic -- such as El Raval.

A clear trend in hotels all over the city today, and one playing a major part in the general improvement in lodging quality, is the obligatory inclusion of "high tech" Internet facilities such as high-speed ADSL and Wi-Fi connections. Usually provided free, they are more or less standard in all levels of hostelries now appearing on the scene, as well as in some of the more established ones that realize they need to update to stay competitive. Check out the Petit Palace Opera Garden Ramblas, in the heart of the Old City, for an example of 21st-century accommodations.

Which Quarter for Full Satisfaction -- The Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) is good for hostales (not to be confused with hostels) and cheaper guesthouses, and you can live and eat less expensively here than in any other part of Barcelona, as well as save money on transport because most sights are within walking distance. Hold onto your belongings, however -- bag snatching is rife here, in the gentrified El Born area, and in the still-edgy El Raval. While you're unlikely to suffer any bodily harm, be careful when returning to your hotel late at night.

More modern, but more expensive, accommodations can be found north of the Barri Gòtic in the Eixample district, centered on the Metro stops Plaça de Catalunya and Universitat. Many buildings here are in the modernista style, from the last decades of the 19th century. Be aware that sometimes the elevators and plumbing are of the same vintage. But the Eixample is a desirable and safe neighborhood, especially along its wide boulevards, and has plenty of good restaurants. Traffic noise is the only problem you might encounter.

The area around Sants and Plaça Espanya is the main hub of business hotels and convenient for conferences, meetings, and trade shows. It's also convenient for getting to or from the airport (just 20 min. away by taxi), and the hotels here tend to be quite good if family-size rooms are needed. But most leisure travelers will probably find it too far away from the city center.

Farther north, above the Avinguda Diagonal, you'll enter the Gràcia area, where you can enjoy distinctively Catalan neighborhood life. It has a village-y feel, low-rise buildings, and plenty of sunny plazas populated by students. The main attractions are a bit distant but easily reached by public transportation, still the neighborhood does have a uniquely eclectic feel that makes the barrio worth exploring. Above this, the neighborhoods of Sarrià and Sant Gervasi are mainly upper-class residential areas, with plenty of top-end bars and restaurants.

Barcelona's seafront has never been much of a hot spot for hotels, though after decades of practically ignoring its shoreline, the city has more recently transformed it into a bustling seaside promenade. The few hotels that do exist here tend to be four or five star, though the area of Poble Nou (regenerated by the cultural festival Forum2004) is becoming increasingly popular among new developers and is a good choice for anyone looking to get away from the tourist crowds while staying close to the beach.

Another option consider is aparthotels and short-term rented apartments (self-catering accommodations), which are becoming increasingly popular. They give you independence, a kitchen in which you cook for yourself, and the sensation of a home-away-from-home. Finally there is a new wave in bed-and-breakfast accommodations. Virtually unheard of until 2 or 3 years ago, these family-run guesthouses (often no more than two or three rooms) offer a highly personal and cheap alternative.

But whichever option you choose, you must book well ahead to secure something on your list of first choices. Don't even think of rolling into town without a reservation -- if you do, you may find yourself sculling to the distant suburbs or out of Barcelona altogether. This is not true only during summer months, either: Tourism here is nonstop year-round.

Many of Barcelona's hotels were built before the invention of the automobile, and even the more modern ones rarely have garages. When parking is available at the hotel, I've indicated the price; otherwise, the hotel staff will direct you to a garage. Expect to pay upward of 14€ ($18) for 24 hours, and if you do have a car, you might as well park it and leave it there, because driving around the city can be excruciating. Indeed, if you don't plan to leave Barcelona, then you won't need to rent a car.