Getting There

By Plane

Below are included a list of major airlines that fly to Barcelona. For up-to-the-minute information, including a list of additional carriers that fly to the Spanish capital, check with a travel agent or the individual airlines.

From North America -- Flights from the U.S. east coast to Spain take 6 to 7 hours. The national carrier of Spain, Iberia Airlines (tel. 800/772-4642; www.iberia.com), has more routes into and within Spain than any other airline. It offers almost daily services from most major U.S. cities (New York, Washington, Chicago, Atlanta) either direct to Barcelona or via Madrid. Also available are attractive rates on fly/drive packages within Iberia and Europe; they can substantially reduce the cost of both the air ticket and the car rental.

A good money-saver to consider is Iberia's SpainPass. Available only to passengers who simultaneously arrange for transatlantic passage on Iberia, the SpainPass consists of coupons equivalent to a one-way/one-person ticket to destinations on mainland Spain and the Balearic Islands. Travelers must purchase a three-coupon minimum (228€/$285) and extra coupons can be bought at 60€ ($75) each. Their EuroPass services European destinations. Coupons (minimum of two) for destinations such as Rome, Geneva, Vienna, and Istanbul cost $139 each or $169 for Cairo or Tel Aviv. The EuroPass can only be purchased as a part of an Iberian Air itinerary from your home country.

Iberia's main Spain-based competitor is Air Europa (tel. 888/238-7672; www.air-europa.com), which offers a daily service from Newark Airport using Continental Airlines to Madrid, with connecting flights to Barcelona. Fares are usually lower than Iberia's.

Delta (tel. 800/241-4141; www.delta.com) runs daily nonstop service from Atlanta (its worldwide hub) and New York (JFK) to Barcelona. Delta's Dream Vacation department offers independent fly/drive packages, land packages, and escorted bus tours.

United Airlines (tel. 800/241-6522; www.ual.com) does not fly into Spain directly. It does, however, offer airfares from the United States to Spain with United flying as far as Zurich, and then using another carrier to complete the journey. United also offers fly/drive packages and escorted motorcoach tours.

From the U.K.. -- British Airways (tel. 0845/773-3377; www.britishairways.com) Iberia (tel. 020/7830-0011 in London) and EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) are the three major carriers flying between England and Spain. More than a dozen daily flights, on either BA or Iberia, depart from London's Heathrow and Gatwick airports. About the same number of EasyJet flights depart daily from Stansted, Luton, and Gatwick airports. EasyJet also has direct flights from Liverpool and Newcastle and another Internet service MyTravelite (www.mytravelite.com) offers a daily service from Birmingham. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) which uses Girona (Gerona) airport, located about an hour outside of Barcelona, flies in from Bournemouth, Dublin and the East Midlands, as well as London. (There is a connecting bus service from Girona Airport to central Barcelona.) The best air deals on scheduled flights from England are those requiring a Saturday night stopover.

Budget airlines are giving the major carriers a run for their money and many have now had to slash their fares to compete. The efficiency of these services has been proven (both EasyJet and Ryanair have excellent "on time" records) and most travelers seem happy to forgo the frills and arrive in Barcelona with a few more euros in their pocket.

Charter flights to the regional Catalan airports of Reus and Girona leave from many British regional airports. Girona serves those heading to the Costa Brava north of Barcelona while Reus is mainly used by those holidaying on the resorts on the Costa Daurada in the south. Trailfinders (tel. 020/7937-5400 in London; www.trailfinder.com), operates charters to both destinations.

In London, there are many bucket shops around Victoria Station and Earls Court that offer cheap fares. Make sure the company you deal with is a member of the IATA, ABTA, or ATOL. These umbrella organizations will help you if anything goes wrong.

Ceefax, the British television information service, runs details of package holidays and flights to Europe and beyond. Just switch to your CEEFAX channel and you'll find travel information.

From Australia -- From Australia, there are a number of options to fly to Spain. The most popular is Qantas (www.quantas.com)/British Airways (www.britishairways.com), which flies daily via Asia and London. Other popular and cheaper options are Qantas/Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) via Asia and Frankfurt, Qantas/Air France (www.airfrance.com) via Asia and Paris, and Alitalia (www.alitalia.com) via Bangkok and Rome. The most direct option is on Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com), with just one stop in Singapore. Alternatively, there are flights on Thai Airways (www.thaiair.com) via Bangkok and Rome, but the connections are not always good.

EuroPass: A Cost-Cutting Technique -- A noteworthy cost-cutting option is Iberia's EuroPass. Available only to passengers who simultaneously arrange for transatlantic passage on Iberia and a minimum of two additional flights, it allows passage on any flight within Iberia's European or Mediterranean dominion for $250 for the first two flights and $133 for each additional flight. This is especially attractive for passengers wishing to combine trips to Spain with, for example, visits to such far-flung destinations as Cairo, Tel Aviv, Istanbul, Moscow, or Munich. For details, ask Iberia's phone representative.

Getting Into Town From the Airport

El Prat, Barcelona's airport, is 13km (8 miles) from the city center, and there are several options you can use to get into town. One is the Aerobús, which leaves just outside all three terminals every 15 minutes from 6am to midnight and stops at Plaça Espanya, Gran Vía Corts Catalanes, Plaça Universitat, and Plaça Catalunya (taking about 40 min. to reach the last stop). Another is by half-hourly rail service that departs between 6:15am and 11:15pm from the El Prat train station to Sants (25 min.), which has connections with the Metro or Subway. The third is by taxi from ranks outside all terminals.

If you've rented a car and are driving into the city, be sure to familiarize yourself with the road signs beforehand. These websites are a good place to start: wwwasirt.org/roadwatch.htm and www.onemotoring.com.

By Car

If you're touring the rest of Europe in a rented car, you might, for an added cost, be allowed to drop off your vehicle in Barcelona.

Highway approaches to Spain are across France on expressways. The most popular border crossing is near Biarritz, but there are 17 other border stations between Spain and France. If you plan to visit the north or west of Spain (Galicia), the Hendaye-Irún border is the most convenient frontier crossing. If you're going to Barcelona or Catalonia and along the Levante coast (Valencia), take the expressway in France to Toulouse, then the A-61 to Narbonne, and then the A-9 toward the border crossing at La Junquera. You can also take the RN-20, with a border station at Puigcerdà.

Barcelona is tucked away in the northeast corner of Spain, just below the Pyrénées. Main highways within Spain from the city run west and south and the best connections are with Madrid (NII) and Valencia (E15). To get to northern cities such as Pamplona, Burgos, and Bilbao take the A2 highway first to Zaragoza and look for the appropriate connection.

If you're driving from Britain, make sure you have a cross-Channel reservation, as traffic tends to be very heavy, especially in summer.

The major ferry crossings connect Dover and Folkestone with Dunkirk. Newhaven is connected with Dieppe, and the British city of Portsmouth with Roscoff. Taking a car on the ferry from Dover to Calais on P & O Ferries (tel. 800/677-8585 in North America or 08705/20-20-20; www.poferries.com) costs £99 ($188) and takes 1 1/4 hours. This cost includes the car and two passengers.

One of the fastest crossings is by hovercraft from Dover to Calais. It costs more than the ferry, but it takes only about half an hour. For reservations and information, call Hoverspeed (tel. 800/677-8585 for reservations in North America, or 0870/240-8070 in England; www.hoverspeed.com). The hovercraft takes 35 minutes and costs £138 to £215 ($262-$409) for the car and two passengers. The drive from Calais to the border would take about 15 hours.

You can take the Chunnel, the underwater Channel Tunnel linking Britain (Folkestone) and France (Calais) by road and rail. Eurostar tickets, for train service between London and Paris or Brussels, are available through Rail Europe (tel. 800/EUROSTAR; www.eurostar.com for information). In London, make reservations for Eurostar at tel. 0870/530-00-03. The tunnel also accommodates passenger cars, charter buses, taxis, and motorcycles, transporting them under the English Channel from Folkestone, England, to Calais, France. It operates 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, running every 15 minutes during peak travel times, and at least once an hour at night. Tickets may be purchased at the tollbooth at the tunnel's entrance. With "Le Shuttle," gone are the days of weather-related delays, seasickness, and advance reservations.

Once you land, you'll have about a 18-hour drive to Barcelona.

If you plan to transport a rental car between England and France, check in advance with the rental company about license and insurance requirements and additional drop-off charges. And be aware that many car-rental companies, for insurance reasons, forbid transport of one of their vehicles over the water between England and France.

Car Rentals -- Many of North America's biggest car-rental companies, including Avis, Budget, and Hertz, maintain offices throughout Spain. Although several Spanish car-rental companies exist, we've received lots of letters from readers of previous editions telling us they've had hard times resolving billing irregularities and insurance claims, so you might want to stick with the U.S.-based rental firms.

Note that tax on car rentals is a whopping 15%, so don't forget to factor that into your travel budget. Usually, prepaid rates do not include taxes, which will be collected at the rental kiosk itself. Be sure to ask explicitly what's included when you're quoted a rate.

Avis (tel. 800/331-1212; www.avis.com) maintains about 100 branches throughout Spain. There are seven in Barcelona, located at El Prat airport (two); Carrers Corcega 293/295, Pallars 457, and Rita Bonat 5; Sants railway station; and at the World Trade Center in the harbor. If you reserve and pay for your rental by telephone at least 2 weeks before your departure from North America, you'll qualify for the company's best rate, with unlimited kilometers included.

You can usually get competitive rates from Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131; www.hertz.com) and Budget (tel. 800/472-3325; www.budget.com); it always pays to comparison shop. Budget doesn't have a drop-off charge if you pick up a car in one Spanish city and return it to another. All three companies require that drivers be at least 21 years of age and, in some cases, not older than 72. To be able to rent a car, you must have a passport and a valid driver's license; you must also have a valid credit card or a prepaid voucher. An international driver's license is not essential, but you might want to present it if you have one; it's available from any North American office of the American Automobile Association (AAA).

Two other agencies of note include Kemwel Holiday Auto (tel. 877/820-0668; www.kemwel.com) and Auto Europe (tel. 800/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com).

Many packages include airfare, accommodations, and a rental car with unlimited mileage. Compare these prices with the cost of booking airline tickets and renting a car separately, in order to see if these offers are good deals. Internet resources can make comparison shopping easier. Microsoft Expedia (www.expedia.com) and Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) help you compare prices and locate car-rental bargains from various companies nationwide. They will even make your reservation for you once you've found the best deal.

Most cars rented in Spain are stick shift, not automatic. Most are air-conditioned and nearly all use unleaded gas.

Usual minimum-age limit for rentals 25 (or even older) while upper-age requirements reach 70 to 75 for certain vehicles

Driving Rules -- Spaniards drive on the right side of the road. Drivers should pass on the left; local drivers sound their horns when passing another car and flash their lights at you if you're driving slowly (slowly for high-speed Spain) in the left lane. Autos coming from the right have the right of way.

Spain's express highways are known as autopistas, which charge a toll, and autovías, which don't. To exit in Spain, follow the SALIDA (exit) sign, except in Catalonia, where the exit sign says SORTIDA. On most express highways, the speed limit is 120kmph (75 mph). On other roads, speed limits range from 90kmph (56 mph) to 100kmph (62 mph). You will see many drivers far exceeding these limits.

The greatest number of accidents in Spain is recorded along the notorious Costa del Sol highway, Carretera de Cádiz.

If you must drive through Barcelona -- or any other Spanish city -- try to avoid morning and evening rush hours. Never park your car facing oncoming traffic, as that is against the law. If you are fined by the highway patrol (Guardia Civil de Tráfico), you must pay on the spot. Penalties for drinking and driving are very stiff (Breathalysers are now being far more strictly used than in the past).

Maps -- For one of the best overviews of the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal), get Michelin map no. 990 (folded version) or map no. 460 (spiral-bound version). For more detailed looks at Spain, Michelin has a series of six maps (nos. 441-446) showing specific regions, complete with many minor roads.

For extensive touring, purchase Mapas de Carreteras -- España y Portugal, published by Almax Editores and available at most leading bookstores in Spain. This cartographic compendium of Spain provides an overview of the country and includes road and street maps of some of its major cities.

The American Automobile Association (www.aaa.com) publishes a regional map of Spain that's available free to members at most AAA offices in the United States. Incidentally, the AAA is associated with the Real Automóvil Club de España (RACE; tel. 90-240-45-45; www.race.es). This organization can supply helpful information about road conditions in Spain, including tourist and travel advice. It will also provide limited road service, in an emergency, if your car breaks down.

Breakdowns -- These can be a serious problem. If you're driving a Spanish-made vehicle that needs parts, you'll probably be able to find them. But if you are driving a foreign-made vehicle, you may be stranded. Have the car checked before setting out on a long trek through Spain. On a major motorway you'll find strategically placed emergency phone boxes. On secondary roads, call for help by asking the operator to locate the nearest Guardia Civil, which will put you in touch with a garage that can tow you to a repair shop.

As noted above, the Spanish affiliate of AAA can provide limited assistance in the event of a breakdown.

By Bus

Bus travel to Spain is possible but not popular -- it's quite slow. But coach services do operate regularly from major capitals of western Europe to Barcelona, from which bus connections can be made to Madrid. The busiest routes are from London and are run by Eurolines Limited, 52 Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1W 0AU (tel. 0990/143-219 or 020/7730-8235). The journey from London's Victoria Station to Barcelona takes 27 hours and 15 minutes, departing from Victoria Station at 3.30pm and arriving at Barcelona Nord at 6:45pm the following day. There is a 30-minute wait in Lyon, France, en route.

If you're touring the rest of Europe in a rented car, you might, for an added cost, be allowed to drop off your vehicle in Barcelona.

By Train

If you're already in Europe, you may want to go to Spain by train, especially if you have a EurailPass. Even if you don't, the cost is moderate. Rail passengers who visit from Britain or France should make couchette (bunk beds in a sleeper car) and sleeper reservations as far in advance as possible, especially during the peak summer season.

Since Spain's rail tracks are of a wider gauge than those used for French trains (except for the TALGO and Trans-Europe-Express trains), you'll probably have to change trains at the border unless you're on an express train . For long journeys on Spanish rails, seat and sleeper reservations are mandatory.

The most comfortable and the fastest trains in Spain are the AVE, ALTARIA, TER, TALGO, and Electrotren. However, you pay a supplement to ride on these fast trains. Both first- and second-class fares are sold on Spanish trains. Tickets can be purchased in either the United States or Canada at the nearest office of French Rail or from any reputable travel agent. Confirmation of your reservation will take about a week.

All trains in Catalonia are operated by Spanish State Railways (RENFE). At present, the only AVE (high-speed train) connection is Barcelona-Valencia, although rails are presently being laid for Barcelona-Madrid and Barcelona to the French border connections. RENFE's easy-to-navigate website (www.renfe.es) has information in English on timetables and train types.

If you want your car carried, you must travel Auto-Expreso in Spain. This type of auto transport can be booked only through travel agents or rail offices once you arrive in Europe.

To go from London to Barcelona by rail, you'll need to change not only the train but also the rail terminus in Paris. Trip time from London to Paris is about 6 hours; from Paris to Barcelona, about 12 hours, which includes 2 hours spent in Paris changing trains and stations. Many rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Europe.

If you plan to travel a great deal on the European railroads, it's worth buying a copy of the Thomas Cook Timetable of European Passenger Railroads. It's available exclusively in North America from Forsyth Travel Library, 44 S. Broadway, White Plains, NY 10601 (tel. 800/FORSYTH; www.forsyth.com), at a cost of $28, plus $4.95 postage priority air mail in the United States plus $2 for shipments to Canada.