The Old City

The Ciutat Vella (Old City) is where the top attractions are, and if you are short of precious time this is where you will want to spend most of it. The Gothic cathedral, the Roman foundations, the earthy Raval and funky Ribera districts are all located within this large chunk of the city's landscape that, owing to its abundance of one-way and pedestrianized streets, is best visited on foot. It seems a little daunting at first but striking landmarks such as the city's cathedral, the MACBA (Museum of Modern Art), and the Plaça del Rei will help you navigate your way around the maze. To make it easier, I have divided the attractions up into three sub-areas: the Barri Gòtic (east of La Rambla), El Raval (west of La Rambla), and La Ribera (west of Vía Laietana).

Barri Gòtic

The old original Gothic Quarter is Barcelona's greatest urban attraction. Most of it has survived intact from the Middle Ages. Spend at least 2 or 3 hours exploring its narrow streets and squares, which form a vibrant, lively neighborhood. A nighttime stroll, when lanes and square are atmospherically lit, takes on added drama. The buildings are austere and sober for the most part, the cathedral being the crowning achievement. Roman ruins and the vestiges of 3rd-century walls add further interest. This area is intricately detailed and filled with many attractions that are easy to miss.

La Ribera

Smaller than the Barri Gòtic, the La Ribera district boasts a two major attractions: the Picasso Museum and the soaring Gothic church of Santa María del Mar. Additional smaller treasures abound in its atmospheric streets in the form of cafes, artisan workshops, and intimate boutiques. It's a wonderful place to stroll, window-shop, and grab a bite, and compact enough to cover in an afternoon. At night the bars and coctelerías open their doors and crowds roll in.

El Raval

El Raval is a neighborhood of contrasts. Here, imaginative new buildings and urban projects are being created in the streets of the city's largest inner-city neighborhood. Historically working class, the district is clearly being gentrified in many areas, while other neglected corners are still markedly downtrodden. For many, El Raval symbolizes progressive 21st-century Barcelona with a new polyglot blend of Catalan, Arabic, Middle Eastern, and South American cultures evident at every turn.

El Call: The Jewish Quarter

Before the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella systematically set about persecuting all Jewish communities in Iberia in the late 15th century, Barcelona's Jews had lived harmoniously for centuries alongside Christians and enjoyed special status under the city's autonomous rule. Barcelona's Sephardic Jews flourished in the Middle Ages, reaching four million people in the 13th century -- 15% of the total population of the city. They were respected for their financial expertise, understanding of the law, and learned figures, including poet Ben Ruben Izahac and the astronomer Abraham Xija. The community resided in the city neighborhood El Call (pronounced "kye") reputedly from the Hebrew word kahal, which means "community" or "congregation." The area was bordered by the old walls to the west and east, and its entrance was through the Plaça Sant Jaume. Today this tiny, ancient neighborhood is marked by atmospheric, narrow streets with 14th- to 16th-century buildings, some with vestiges of its former residents. The largest and most complete is the main synagogue in Calle Marlet, no. 5. Consisting of two cellar-like rooms below street level, the space was virtually unknown, serving as a warehouse until 1995 when the building with its four floors added on top was put up for sale. It was acquired by the Asociación Call de Barcelona , which embarked on a meticulous process of renovation.

On the same street, in the direction of the Arc de Sant Ramón, is a wall plaque dating from 1314 bearing the inscription (in Hebrew) "Holy Foundation of Rabbi Samuel Hassardi, whose life is never ending." The remains of the female Jewish public baths can be seen nearby in the basement of the pleasant Café Caleum at the intersection of the streets Banys Nous (which means "New Baths") and Palla. The men's baths are hidden in the rear of the furniture shop S'Olivier (Banys Nous 10), although you need to ask permission from the owner to take a peek.

Old Synagogue and Asociación Call de Barcelona: Marlet 5. tel. 93-317-07-90. Free admission. Hours are Tuesday through Sunday 11am to 2:30pm and 4 to 7:30pm. Metro: Jaume I or Liceu.