Finding a great terrace to sit out on in Barcelona is easier said than done. There are literally hundreds of sidewalk cafes where you can drink your cappuccino to the roar of passing traffic, and tourist-filled plazas lined by restaurants that serve the same old microwaved paellas. But a tucked-away garden, a tranquil terrace, or a hideaway by the sea -- well, that's another matter altogether.
The Café de L'Academia, Calle Lledó 1 (tel. 93-319-82-53), is located on the one of the prettiest squares in Barcelona, Plaça Sant Just. Presided over by a church of the same name, it is reputedly Barcelona's oldest, and according to lore, if you believe your life to be in mortal danger you can still make a legally binding will at the altar with a friend as a witness. It was also on this square that the Romans executed the first Christians. Notwithstanding the ghosts of the past, today it is one of the most peaceful and unspoiled plaças in the Old City. In the Born, the Tèxtil Café, Calle Montcada 12 (tel. 93-268-25-98), is an oasis of calm enclosed within the courtyard of an 18th-century palace. Providing you're not in a hurry (service is notoriously laid-back), it's an idyllic place in the to fuel up on tea, coffee, and hearty, wholesome lunches in the shade of large, white parasols or the warmth of outdoor gas fires in winter.
Barcelona's seafront has restaurant terraces a-plenty, but for something a little more hidden, continue along to the so-called Parc del Port Olímpic, which straddles two busy highways. Here, sunk from view and traffic noise, is the gorgeous Anfiteatro, Av. Litoral 36 (tel. 65-969-53-45) -- a smart restaurant serving creative Mediterranean dishes with a spacious terrace that wraps around an ornamental pool. Another way to escape the crowds is to get up onto the rooftops at La Miranda del Museu, Museu d'Història de Catalunya, Plaça Pau Vila 3 (tel. 93-225-50-07), which has fabulous views over the yachts in Port Vell. Frustratingly, the terrace is for drinks only, so go in time for an aperitif and linger over coffee.
Heading a little farther out and halfway up the hill to Montjuïc, La Font del Gat, Passeig Santa Madrona 28 (tel. 93-289-04-04), is a secret garden and lunch spot chiseled out of the mountainside beneath the famed Joan Miró Foundation. The farther out you go, the prettier the surroundings, and if its real tranquillity you're seeking (not to mention exclusivity), the restaurants in the suburbs are what really shine. In Horta, Can Travi Nou, Jorge Manrique, Parc de la Vall d'Hebron (tel. 93-428-04-34), is a converted 14th-century farmhouse with sprawling grounds, two or three ample terraces, and gardens for strolling. It's great for long Sunday lunches or evenings under the stars, and serves decent, if pricey, roast meats, fish dishes, and paella.
Finally, if you're looking to treat yourself (or somebody else) head for the Restaurant L'Orangerie, Gran Hotel La Florida, Carretera de Vallvidrera al Tibidabo 83-93 (tel. 93-259-30-00). This fabulous eating spot is situated on the highest peak of the Collserola with stunning views over Barcelona, and its scented gardens and terraces make it one of the most spectacular dining destinations in the city.
