Agut

In an historic building three blocks from the harborfront, Agut epitomizes the bohemian atmosphere surrounding this gritty area. For three-quarters of a century this has been a family-run business, with María Agut García now at the helm. The aura evokes the 1950s, and the inventive dishes are served at reasonable prices. Begin with mil hojas de botifarra amb zets (layers of pastry filled with Catalan sausage and mushrooms) or the terrine de albergines amb fortmage de cabra (terrine of eggplant/aubergine with goat's cheese gratinée). One of my favorite dishes is soufle de rape amb gambes (soufflé of monkfish with shrimp). If you are ravenous, attempt the chuletón de buey (loin of ox) for two, which comes thick and juicy and accompanied by fresh vegetables. For dessert, order sortido for an assortment of dainty cakes made in-house.

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