Cal Pep

Cal Pep lies just north of the Plaça de Palau, nestled beside a tiny postage-stamp square. It's generally packed, and the food is some of the tastiest in La Ribera. There's actually a Pep himself, and he's a great host, going around to see that all diners are happy. In the rear is a small dining room (book if you intend to eat there), but most patrons like to sit at the counter seats up front. Try the fried artichokes or the mixed seafood dish that includes tiny sardines. Clams come swimming in a well-seasoned broth given extra spice by a sprinkling of hot peppers. A delectable tuna dish is served with a sesame sauce, and fresh salmon is flavored with basil -- sublime.

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