Nightlife

Everyone from Lord Byron to Jacqueline Onassis has appreciated the unique blend of heat, rhythm, and sensuality that make up nightlife in Seville. If you're looking for a theme to define your nightlife wanderings, three of the most obvious possibilities might involve a bacchanalian pursuit of sherry, wine, and well-seasoned tapas. After several drinks, you might venture to a club whose focus revolves around an appreciation of flamenco as a voyeuristic insight into another era and the melding of the Arab and Christian aesthetic. And when you've finished with that, and if you're not wilted from the heat and the crowds, there's always the possibility of learning the intricate steps of one of southern Spain's most addictive dances, La Sevillanas.

To keep abreast of what's happening in the arts and after dark in Seville, pick up a copy of the free monthly leaflet El Giraldillo, or consult listings in the local press, Correo de Andalucía, Sudoeste, Nueva Andalucía, or ABC Sevilla. Everything is listed here from jazz venues to classical music concerts and from art exhibits to dance events. You can also call the cultural hot line at tel. 010 to find out what's happening. Most of the staff speak English.

Keep an eye out for classical concerts that are sometimes presented in the cathedral of Seville, the church of San Salvador, and the Conservatorio Superior de Música at Jesús del Gran Poder. Variety productions, including some plays for the kids, are presented at Teatro Alameda, Crédito (tel. 95-438-83-12), but knowledge of Spanish is necessary. The venerable Teatro Lope de Vega, Avenida María Luisa (tel. 95-459-08-53), is the setting for ballet performances and classical concerts, among other events. Near Parque María Luisa, this is Seville's leading stage.

Flamenco

When the moon is high in Seville, it's time to wander the alleyways of Santa Cruz in search of the sound of castanets. Or take a taxi, to be on the safe side.

Flamenco, Concerts & Wine -- Near Jardines de Murillo and Palacio de San Telmo is La Carbonería, Calle Levíes 18 (tel. 95-421-44-60), which is unique in Seville. A former charcoal factory has been converted into a concert hall and an array of local bars. It's really a big hall with whitewashed walls and a spectacular carved chimney. This is where the locals go to be entertained at night by a series of Andalusian-style concerts and flamenco shows at 11pm. You often sit on chairs placed at small wooden tables under low ceilings. In the rear is a large, plant-filled courtyard. Entrance is free and a beer or a glass of regional wine costs from 1.50€ ($2.40) and up. It's open daily from 8pm to 3am. Bus: A3 or C3.

A More Cultured Flamenco -- Most flamenco clubs in Seville are geared to tourists. If you'd like to see a more formal and academic presentation of this art form, visit Casa de la Memoria, Calle Ximénez de Enciso 28 (tel. 95-456-06-70), in the Barrio de Santa Cruz. The price is only 14€ ($22) for adults or 12€ ($19) for students. The venue is a high-ceilinged Andalusian patio on a narrow street. Call for showtimes and a reservation. No alcohol is served.

Dancing the Sevillanas -- Flamenco is danced in solitary grandeur, but everyone joins in with the communal but complicated dance steps of the sevillanas. The best place to check it out is El Simpecao, Paseo de la O s/n (no phone). Beginning at 11pm every night of the year, recorded music presents four distinctly different facets of the complicated and old-fashioned dance steps in which dozens of everyday folk strut their Andalusian style in a way you'll rarely see outside of Spain. The setting is modern and just a wee bit battered. Entrance is free; bottled beer costs from around 2.50€ ($4) each.

Dance Clubs

In Seville, some of these dance clubs have the life span of sickly butterflies. Check locally to see what's open at the time of your visit. Cover charges can vary depending on the night, but count on spending at least 6€ ($7.80) to get in, plus drinks.

The Gay & Lesbian Nightlife Scene

Seville has a large gay and lesbian population, much of it composed of foreigners and of Andalusians who fled here for a better life, escaping smaller, less tolerant towns and villages. Gay life thrives at the bars recommended below.