Things To Do in Seville

Sevilla sprawls in every direction from its historic heart. But the old city, where you’re likely to spend most of your time, occupies a small area.

The cathedral, Giralda, and Alcázar huddle around Plaza del Triunfo. The ancient, narrow streets of Barrio de Santa Cruz spread north from there, the green spaces of the Parque María Luisa to the south. Along the eastern bank of the river is the Arenal, the former shipbuilding district now dominated by the bullring.

Across the bridges to the west is Triana, the old fisherman’s and Romani quarter, famous for its bullfighters, flamenco artists, and painted ceramics.

The city’s commercial center runs north from Plaza Nueva along the pedestrianized streets of Calles Sierpes and Cuna toward Plaza de la Encarnación and Sevilla’s newest landmark, Las Setas.

The neighborhood to the north is named La Macarena after the basilica at the heart of Sevilla’s Holy Week. It stretches past the once seedy, now fashionable, Alameda de Hercules to the Moorish walls at the edge of the old city.

Across the river, north of Triana, the rather desolate Isla de Cartuja was the site of Expo '92 and now contains a contemporary art museum, concert hall, and amusement park.

Wherever you wander in Sevilla, you’ll see the city’s curious municipal emblem, which appears to read NO8DO. It is a clever play on words with a long history. The figure of eight represents a skein of thread, madeja in Spanish. So, the motto reads no-madeja-do, meaning “she [Sevilla] has not abandoned me.” The words are attributed to Alfonso X the Wise, who died here in 1282, forever grateful to the city that had stuck by him throughout his reign.

Saving Money and Time on Sightseeing in Seville

The last thing you want to do during your stay in Sevilla is queue for an hour in the hot sun. The lines for the Alcázar often stretch across Plaza del Triunfo. Skip them by booking online in advance and aim for an early slot. At 9:15am you can usually walk straight in, ahead of the tour groups.

Don’t queue for the cathedral either. You’ll save a euro if you book online, and you can avoid long waits by using the entrance at the horseshoe arch of Puerta del Lagarto. You can still buy tickets at the door at most of Sevilla’s museums and private palaces, but many have limited capacity. It will save time and possible disappointment to reserve a slot in advance.

River Sailing in Seville

As the Guadalquivir river silted up in the 17th century, Sevilla’s pre-eminence as Spain’s main port came to an end. But the river remains one of the city’s great assets and a boat trip is an enjoyable way to explore it. Cruceros Torre del Oro (tel. 95-456-16-92; 17€ adults, 5€ children aged 6–12, free for children under 6) operate from the embankment next to Torre del Oro. For centuries there was no permanent structure across the river to Triana, only a boat bridge built by the Almohads in the 12th century. In the 1850s, the queen commissioned the iron-built Puente de Isabel II, almost identical to the Pont du Carrousel she had admired in Paris. Further along the river you’ll reach the striking, harp-like Puente Alamillo designed by Santiago Calatrava for the 1992 Expo held on Isla de la Cartuja. Cruises last 60 minutes and depart on the hour between 11am and 7pm from October to April, until 10pm in summer. You can book a slot in advance online.

Seville's Second Most Famous Painter, and Where to See His Works

Sevilla’s most famous artist is undoubtedly Diego Velázquez, born here in 1599. In his early twenties, he left for Madrid with his portraits of the city’s street sellers and was promptly snapped up by Felipe IV as court artist. He, and most of his paintings, never returned to Sevilla. Today, El Prado in Madrid is the place to see Velázquez.

Sevilla is the place to admire the prolific output of Bartolomé Esteban Murillo. Born in 1618, he also went to Madrid as a young man but returned in 1645 and dedicated his life to decorating Sevilla’s churches, convents, and monasteries with his huge Baroque paintings of religious subjects. His rosy-cheeked style, seen by some as overly sentimental, fell out of favor during the 19th century, but Sevilla has once again clasped the painter to its bosom. You can see numerous examples of Murillo’s florid paintings in the Museo de Bellas Artes, the cathedral, and the church of Santa María la Blanca, among others.

The pedestrianized streets around Calles Sierpes and Cuna are Sevilla’s main shopping district. Although there are a few tacky souvenir stores here, you’ll also find picturesque emporia selling classic Andalucian goods. Founded in 1896, Sombrería Maquedano, Calle Sierpes, 40 (tel/ 95-456-47-71), sells beautiful men’s felt hats ranging from classic Borsalinos to the flatter, wide-brimmed caballero’s hat. Juan Foronda, Calle Sierpes, 33 (tel. 95-422-76-61), sells investment-quality embroidered silk shawls (mantones) and veils (mantillas), as well as more modestly priced fans (abanicos). Lina, Calle Álvarez Quintero, 11 (tel. 60-833-88-81), is the place for flamenco dresses, beautifully blending traditional and contemporary designs.

Confitería La Campana, Calle Sierpes, 1 (tel. 95-422-35-70), sells traditional polvorón pastries in old-fashioned tins and is a lovely place for a coffee and a sticky cake. The beautifully packaged confectionery at Despensa del Palacio, Calle Villegas, 1 (tel. 95-591-45-25) makes an ideal gift. For top-of-the-range regional hams, cheeses, and wine to take home, head to Flores Gourmet, Calle San Pablo, 24 (tel. 95-421-61-60).

It’s almost impossible to leave Sevilla without buying a piece of pottery. For ceramics, head across the bridge to Triana and the tile-encrusted façades of Cerámica Santa Ana, Calle San Jorge, 31 (tel. 63-524-00-19), and Cerámica Ruiz, Calle San Jorge, 27 (tel. 95-518-69-41). The factory and showroom of Santa Ana opened in 1870. Both have a broad selection of painted tiles, pots, tableware, and decorative items in the azulejo tradition. A serving bowl for olives with a separate compartment for pits makes an authentic Spanish souvenir. Just around the corner, the shop of the Centro Cerámica de Triana, Calle Callao, 16 (tel. 95-547-42-93) has a good selection of pieces by local artisans. La Cartuja de Sevilla, founded by the Englishman Charles Pickman in 1841, still makes classic dinner services of the kind owned by many a sevillano family. The factory is on the outskirts of Sevilla, but you can buy the famous dishes at El Corte Inglés department store, Plaza del Duque de la Victoria, 8 (tel. 95-459-70-00). Back in Barrio Santa Cruz, Populart, Pasaje de Vila, 4 (tel. 95-422-94-44), has antique ceramic tiles and pottery at uptown prices.

Cerámica Santa Ana (Nigel J. Harris / Shutterstock)

Sevilla’s ancient flea market, El Mercadillo de Jueves, takes place on Calle Feria in the Macarena district every Thursday from 8.30am to 2.30pm. It has plenty of interesting vintage items and quite a bit of junk, but mercifully few tacky imports. On Sunday mornings there is a stamp and collectibles market on Plaza del Cabildo.

Flamenco

If you only have one night in Sevilla, you should go to flamenco. Along with Jerez and Cádiz it is the cradle of the art form, and many of Spain’s most famous performers grew up in the Romani quarter of Triana. Apart from Madrid, the city has the busiest performance schedule in the country. There are different formats to choose from.

Two cultural centers offer very pure flamenco in a style intended to be as educational as it is entertaining. The Museo del Baile Flamenco,  Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos, 13 (tel. 95-434-03-11), offers daily dance-oriented performances in its courtyard at 5pm, 7pm, and 8:45pm. Admission is 25€ adults, 18€ seniors and students, and 12€ children. Casa de la Memoria, Calle Cuna, 6 (casadelamemoria.es; 📞 95-456-06-70), hosts shows nightly at 7:30pm, usually featuring a small troupe focusing on early 20th-century styles. Admission is 22€ adults, 18€ students, and 12€ children aged 6–11.

The flamenco nightclub spectacle, or tablao, is more obviously aimed at tourists, but may feel more accessible. It can get expensive, and purists grumble about the quality. Most offer a drink with the admission price and dinner or tapas on top. The dinner is rarely worth it, but you may get better seats. Flamenco Las Setas, Plaza de la Encarnación (tel. 68-477-69-81), stages four evening shows within the spectacular structure of Las Setas. Admission is 35€ with a cocktail, 60€ with dinner, 20€ children aged 6–12. Tablao El Arenal, Calle Rodó, 7 (tel. 95-421-64-92), offers one of the most highly rated shows in an atmospheric location close to the bullring. Shows are at 7pm and 9:30pm. Admission is 43€, 84€ with dinner. For flamenco on a budget, head to La Carbonería, Calle Céspedes, 21 (tel. 95-422-99-45), set in a former coal warehouse with a student bar feel. Admission is free, charcuterie and cheese plates cost 10€, and the beer comes in English-style pint mugs. A series of short sets starts around 10pm.

Triana is famous for its raucous and sometimes spontaneous flamenco bar scene. Two of the liveliest are side by side on the riverfront. Sala Rejoneo, Calle Betis, 31B (tel. 65-880-90-03) and Lo Nuestro, Calle Betis, 31A (tel. 65-880-90-03) with shows on Friday and Saturday nights. Admission is free, but drinks are pricey. Shows start around 11pm and the bars often stay open until dawn. For more serious flamenco, in a theater setting without drinks, seek out Teatro Flamenco Triana, Calle Pureza, 76 (tel. 61-100-23-30). It hosts three evening shows, at 5:30pm, 7:30pm and 9pm. Tickets cost 25€ adults, 20€ students and seniors, and 15€ children aged 4–12.

Casco Antiguo District (Kirk Fisher / Shutterstock)

Drinks & Tapas

For most sevillanos there is little or no distinction between going out to eat and going out for a drink. You simply do both, and the bars listed on this website are also recommended for a drink. As the evening wears on, beer and tapas give way to copas, usually enormous goblets of gin and tonic.

To barhop like a local, kick off at the tables outside the two crowded bars on Plaza de San Salvador, La Antigua Bodeguita and Los Soportales, and take it from there. Taberna Álvaro Peregil is an atmospheric hole in the wall on touristy Calle Mateos Gago for a glass of vino de naranja (orange wine) and chicharrones—salty, thinly sliced pork belly from Cádiz. From there it’s a short hop to the Barrio Santa Cruz favorites Las Columnas  and the ham-laden Las Teresas, Calle Santa Teresa, 2. For cocktails, seek out Bar Garlochí, Calle Boteros, 26, which is marvelously decorated like a Baroque chapel, or book a spot on the terrace at Hotel Inglaterra, Plaza Nueva, 7 (tel. 95-422-49-70) for spectacular views of the illuminated cathedral. As evening turns to night, head to Alameda de Hercules for its late bars and dance clubs, which get going after 11pm.

Performing Arts

In addition to Carmen and Don Giovanni, around 150 librettos have been inspired by Sevilla. Built for the 1992 Expo, the Teatro de la Maestranza, Paseo de Colón, 22 (teatrodelamaestranza.es; 📞 95-422-33-44),

Though often the setting for operas, Sevilla didn’t get its own opera house until the 1990s. The Teatro de la Maestranza, Paseo de Colón, 22 (tel. 95-422-33-44) has established itself as one of the world’s leading operatic venues. Its season focuses on works inspired by the city and flamenco, jazz, and zarzuelas (operettas) are also performed. Buy tickets online or from the box office in front of the theater, open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 2pm and 5 to 8pm.