Tropical Travelogue: A "Foreign" Republic, But Here at Home
You can have all the fun of visiting another country, yet one where they speak English (with an American accent), use familiar currency, and provide safe drinking water, all while never leaving the USA. How? Just by going to Key West, that's how.
Capital of the Conch Republic, Key West is as tropical as you can get in the contiguous 48 states, and it stands at the entrance to the Caribbean, right where the Atlantic meets the Gulf of Mexico. The republic claims to be the world's first functioning Meritocracy, and says its Mission is the Mitigation of World Tension through the Exercise of Humor (their capital letters, not mine). They have an air force (an old biplane that carries advertising banners behind it) and a Navy (though the sole sailing ship is in drydock for repairs at the moment). They do not have an Army, though I have suggested they ask Monaco for help in this respect, since that principality has such a body, but no air force nor navy.
But how can it be a "foreign" country and yet be in the United States? Funny you should ask, as it's, well, a funny sort of story. Key West and the Florida Keys, a stretch of islands trailing off south and west of Miami for nearly 150 miles, have long been the scene of smuggling, mostly of illegal drugs in recent years. Back in April of 1982 (on the 23rd, in fact), the United States Border Patrol, fed up with too many marijuana shipments being offloaded from Caribbean ships in the area, shut down the Florida Keys by erecting a checkpoint north of Key Largo.
This reduced the flow of tourists to a trickle, so, after failing to obtain relief in Federal Court, the Mayor of Key West, Dennis Wardlow, summoned his fellow citizens to the City Hall, and there proclaimed a new nation, the Conch Republic. On the spot, the city seceded from the Union, declared war on the United States (by having the mayor, now a self-proclaimed prime minister, bop a startled US Navy commander on the shoulder with a stale loaf of Cuban bread), then surrendered, demanding a huge amount of foreign aid. (The border patrol checkpoint was soon removed, the "foreign aid' never to be heard of again.)
Ever since, citizens have celebrated their independence annually in April, "in a Public and Notorious Manner, thereby establishing our legitimate claim to Sovereignty by virtue of Adverse Possession." It's all in good fun, and if you are in Key West on the 23rd, be sure to join in the festivities for the 20th anniversary of the Birth of Their Nation. (You can buy a Conch Republic passport, by the way, for $100, in person or are the web. Details and a lot of fun writing can be found on their Web site, www.conchrepublic.com.)
Back in the Real World
The majority of visitors to Key West come as passengers on a cruise ship, but many arrive for a honeymoon, and the discerning few visit to experience the cultural life of the city. There are more published writers here, per capita, than in any other place in North America, say local boosters, and there are hundreds of artists, who show their works in two dozen galleries. This small (pop. 25,000) but talent-drenched town even has its own symphony now, performing six times a year, and using mostly local musicians.
One of the nicest "cultural" things you can do here is to go visit Nancy Forrester's Secret Garden, right in the heart of Old Town, at 1 Free School Lane (off Simonton, between Fleming and Southard streets). It's the last undeveloped wooded acre in this part of Key West. They get very few visitors (50 a day in high season, sometimes only 2 in low season), and you will, I hope, love the jungle-like ambiance as well as the beautiful caged parrots on display. This is a great place to bring your picnic lunch, and there are tables in little arbors where you can sit and eat, or just enjoy the peace and quiet here. Predatory real estate developers (who want even more condos) are after Ms. Nancy's acre, which is in imminent danger of being sold on the courthouse steps at auction if she can't raise enough to pay her back taxes ($7,500), so get to Key West soon, or send some help to be sure the garden is still there when you arrive. Open daily 10 to 5, admission $6. Phone 305/294-0015, Web site www.hurricanecenter.com/SecretGarden, e-mail nfsecretgarden@juno.com.
The Key West Garden Club (phone 305/294-3210) offers free admission at its headquarters in the West Martello Tower, a Civil War fort and National Historic Site. It's best when shows are being put on, or when spring and summer are producing the best flowers and foliage.
From May 15 to 19, the Key West Music Festival (phone 305/296-1520, Web site www.keywestmusicfestival.com)can be heard, and in June and July, the Key West Pops will perform. July also sees the 22nd Annual Hemingway Days, when hundreds of men sport Ernie look-alike beards (305/294-1136), as well as the 18th Annual Underwater Music Festival at Looe Key (800/872-3722), not far away. In August and September, month-long each time, enjoy "Gallery on Greene," various artists showing their works (305/294-1669). September 5-12 is Womenfest, featuring arts, displays and sports for women (305/296-2491), and from October 18-27 is the world renowned Fantasy Fest (similar to Carnival), the highlight being a parade on the final Saturday evening (305/296-1817).
Year-round cultural events include the Third Thursday of each month, when four of the galleries along White Street and Truman Avenue open to the public from 6 to 9 in the evening. If you get to Key West during their high season (January through April), you can enjoy theater from three repertory companies, as well as workshops for writers and artists. The famed Key West Literary Seminar takes place every January, in 2003 for the 21st year (phone 888/293-9291, www.keywestliteraryseminar.org). There are also annual House & Garden tours during those months, even street fairs, fashion shows and dinner dances under the stars.
The Heritage House Museum, 410 Caroline Street, is not known nearly enough, though it is a most charming spot. The house itself is one of the town's oldest (1834), and is crammed with authentic furniture and artwork collected by the late Jesse Porter (a leading hostess and preservationist), just as she left it. (Key West shipwreck salvaging made this city the richest per capita in the US back in the mid-19th century.) Equally wonderful is the museum's garden, the centerpiece of which is the huge fireplace from a burned-down cook house. Interspersed among the trees and foliage is an amazing collection of rare orchids, a recent gift from the estate of a long-time local collector. Also in the garden is the Robert Frost Cottage (a National Literary Landmark) where the famous poet wintered for many years. (If you spot children in the garden, they may be 8th-generation Conchs visiting neighboring relatives.) Open daily except Sunday, admission $6 for adults, only $1 for children (12-18), free under 12. Phone them at 305/296-3573, Web site www.heritagehousemuseum.org.
And if you really need to get into the water, don't bother in Key West itself (unless it's the pool), but go up to Bahia Honda State Park, about 25 miles northeast, to one of the most beautiful environments in the country. There are several biological communities here, the most prominent of which are beach dunes and mangrove forests. You can camp here or just spend the day, snorkeling, swimming off the sandy white beaches, fishing, even boating. Bird life includes great white herons, roseate spoonbills, egrets, pelicans and more. Admission is $5 for two persons in car. 36850 Overseas Highway, Big Pine Key, phone 305/872-2353, online at
www.bahiahondapark.com.
Lodging
If you like combining low costs with high living, check out L'Habitation, a French-American guesthouse (10 units) right down in the heart of Old Town. Large bedrooms, each with private bath, and some with private patio, can be had for as little as $95 to $125, even in high season ($73 to $98 off season). Contact them at 408 Eaton Street, phone 305/293-9203 or 800/697-1766, fax 305/296-1313, e-mail lhabitat1@mail.keysdigital.com, Web site www.lhabitation.com. Ask for Stuart or Helene.
Also in the budget range is the Abaco Inn, with off-season prices as low as $69, high season $99 to $109. There are only 3 rooms here, spacious and inviting, just south of Truman and off Duval, but quiet. Friendly George is in charge. 415 Julia Street, phone 305/296-2212 or 800/358-6307, fax 295-0349, e-mail stay@abaco-inn.com, Web site www.abaco-inn.com.
I think the best resort-style hotel in town is the Pier House, a longtime favorite with locals for their guests. Best location in town, too, right where Duval Street meets the Gulf shoreline. Pool, private beach, 3 restaurants, spa and fitness center--the works. Excellent spot from which to view sunsets, margarita in hand. Prices $200 and up low season, $245 and up high season, per room. 142 units. One Duval Street, phone 305/296-4600 or 800/327-8340, fax 305/296-9085, info@pierhouse.com, Web site www.pierhouse.com.
Dining Out
One of the best places to eat in town is Square One, where you choose indoor or outdoor seating, with famous dishes such as its baked garlic ($6.95) for a starter, and grilled miso pork tenderloin at $19.95. Ask for Michael (you can't go wrong, there are two Michaels.) Dinner only, 1075 Duval Street, phone 305/296-4300.
Mangia Mangia is a pasta cafe, and excellent for that, fresh homemade pastas starting at $9.95. 900 Southard Street, phone 305/294-2469.
If you like a funky place popular with locals, try PT's Late Night Bar & Grill, where the fajitas start at $8.95 (veggie), smothered pork chops at $11.95. 920 Caroline Street, phone 305/296-4245.
Summing Up
For more information on arts, check with the Florida Keys Council of the Arts, phone 305/295-4369, online at www.keysarts.com.
For more information on Key West and the Keys themselves, phone 800/FLA KEYS, or go to www.fla-keys.com. Once you are in the Keys, there's a separate free number available 24/7 to answer any questions, namely 800/771-KEYS.
Getting around is easy, especially if you like walking, as the island is less than 5 x 1 miles in area. You can rent a 2- or 4-seater electric car (Key West Cruisers) at 1111A Eaton St. or the corner of Truman and Duval, from $29 per hour, $89 per half day, $119 per full day, $139 overnight. You need a driver's license. Phone 305/294-4724 or 888/800-8802. And there are bicycles, scooters, taxis and buses, of course.
