For dining, the Hangzhou institution Lou Wai Lou, Gushan Lu 30 (tel. 0571/8796-9023), on Solitary Hill Island, between the Xiling Seal Engraving Society and the Zhejiang Library, is a tourist favorite. Hours are daily from 11:30am to 2pm and from 5 to 8pm; local specialties, such as Beggar's Chicken (jiaohua ji), the excellent local dongpo pork, and Longjing shrimp can all be tried here. Or avoid the whole tourist trap (and prices) and head to where locals go for their Hangzhou food fix: the perennially crowded Wai Po Jia (Grandma's Kitchen), with branches all over the city, including at Hubin Lu 3, second floor (tel. 0571/8510-1939; www.waipojia.com; daily 10:30am-2pm and 4:40-9pm). There's a picture menu with all kinds of delicious local dishes you will not find at home; dinner for two ranges from ¥100 to ¥200. The international restaurants at Xi Hu Tiandi (West Lake Heaven and Earth), on the southeastern shore of the lake, should provide plenty of comfort food. Or dine in style at Amanfayun's the Restaurant (Fayun Nong 22, Xihujiedao; tel. 0571/8732-9999), which serves tasty international fare with a varied wine list.

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