Nightlife

The one required nighttime activity here is an authentic feast and dance show at Tiki Theatre Village in Haapiti (tel. 55.02.50).

Moorea's major resorts also have Tahitian feasts and dance shows at least once a week. The most elaborate is the Saturday-evening lagoonside show at the InterContinental Resort and Spa Moorea. Most charge 8,000CFP to 9,500CFP (US$100-US$119/£51-£60) per person for the dinner and dance show.

One notable exception is a free show at the Club Bali Hai (tel. 56.13.68) every Wednesday at 6pm. It's followed by an à la carte seafood barbecue at Snack l'Ananas Bleu (Blue Pineapple). Meals range from 1,800CFP to 3,900CFP (US$23-US$49/£11-£25). Reservations are required for the barbecue.

Sunsets with Muk at Club Bali Hai

If I'm on Moorea, you'll find me beside Cook's Bay at the Club Bali Hai (tel. 56.13.68) swapping yarns with Muk McCallum, one of the original Bali Hai Boys. His bring-your-own happy hours run Thursday through Tuesday between 5:30 and 7pm. This is one of the great vistas in the South Pacific; you'll want to become a modern Paul Gauguin in order to capture the changing colors of the bay, sky, and jagged mountains.

Among the restaurants, Maria@Tapas (tel. 55.01.70) has entertainment on Friday and Saturday evenings (expect a cover charge when bands perform unless you dine there). Scottish-born guitarist Ron Falconer appears at Restaurant Aito (tel. 56.45.52) on Friday night. And a string band plays traditional Tahitian tunes on Friday and Saturday nights at Kaveka Restaurant (tel. 56.50.50). In the Haapiti hotel district, PK0 (tel. 56.55.46) has live music on Friday and Saturday. It's Haapiti's version of Maria@Tapas.