Phnom Penh is notorious for some of the seediest nightlife in all of Southeast Asia. There are some good, friendly bars in town, though many are the "hostess bar" variety. Most good romps start or end at the town's counterculture hub, The Heart of Darkness, No. 38 Street 51, Pasteur, open 8pm to sunrise. Done in burgundy tones and cluttered with statuary and memorabilia, the Heart, as it's called, has had a face-lift in recent years and is not as seedy as its reputation of yore (although the metal detectors are a relief). It's where to go to find out what's on in town.
The downtown area along the riverside is chockablock with small storefront bars and a few upscale spots. The Rising Sun, No. 20 Street 178 (tel. 012/970-719), is a comfy English pub, a dark wooden stopover great for a few pints and a game of darts near the town center. Green Vespa (95 Sisowath Quay; tel. 012/887-228; www.greenvespa.com) is a funky bar decked out in a Vespa theme -- dig the cool green Vespa on display over the door. It's popular with expats and open daily from 6pm until late. Q Bar (96 Sothearos Blvd; tel. 092/541-821) is a hip new late night venue playing house and dance music. They've got a healthy happy hour (6-9pm) and are open until late.
