Martha Stewart raved about it. Joe Biden chowed down. What started as a roadside shack grew into a raucous open-air restaurant with a full bar and a takeout window. You order from a menu that includes spit-roasted chicken, ribs, stewed conch, and grilled mahimahi and sides like seasoned rice and red peas and world-class johnnycakes. Sip a Coquito (creamy coconut eggnog) as you wait for your food. The five-star BBQ chicken, slow-cooked over a smoking pit of coals and wood chips, is a family recipe. A pig roast is held every Saturday night, accompanied by the rhythms of a steel-pan band. Portions are big, prices are cheap, and it's cash-only.