Chef-owner Quique Dacosta hails from the coastal village of Dénia (famous for its shellfish) and rose to fame as one of Spain’s most provocative young chefs. His philosophical writings deconstruct the traditions of seafood cuisine in eastern Iberia and then reconstruct them to match a contemporary avant-garde aesthetic. That all sounds very high-falutin’ and has certainly made him the darling of critics, but he can also walk the walk, and his radical cuisine looks beautiful, tastes delicious, and is reasonably priced. The comfortable contemporary dining room in the heart of the city features an a la carte menu grounded in fish and shellfish—dishes like cold red prawns served as a centerpiece of a dinner salad, or grilled fish with grilled snow peas atop a “pasta” of zucchini noodles and bean sprouts. His tasting menus are reasonably priced, and he offers a midday “Grace Kelly” menu (so-called because it is beautiful and elegant) Monday to Friday.