Nightlife

At dusk, wander down to the riverside quay on Fa Ngum Road. The Lane Xang Sunset Cruise (tel. 020/771-1003 or 020/551-7133) boards at 7pm and includes meals from US$8 (£4.40) and affordable drinks. Passage is free and the cruise lasts about an hour and a half.

Back on land, there are a few places to meet and greet. The Khop Chai Deu, on the southwest corner of the Nam Phu Fountain, is the hot spot for expats and travelers, and a good place to find out what's going on in town. For a more laid-back atmosphere, try Jazzy Brick, across from Khop Chai Deu, or the Chicago Bar, on Rue Nokeokoumane across from Wat Mixay. If dancing is your thing, check out Dtec Disco at the Novotel hotel. For live music, try Chess Café, on Sakkaline Road, just off Fa Ngum Road east of town, or On the Rock, an intimate affair on the corner of Fa Ngum and Manthatulat Road.