Caves abound in this area and are one of the major attractions in and around Viñales. La Cueva del Indio (The Indian's Cave; tel. 8/79-3202) is the most popular cave and it's become a real tourist trap. Located about 5km (3 miles) north of Viñales at Km 33 on the Carretera de Puerto Esperanza, this cave gets its name from the fact that indigenous remains were found here. Only 1km (1/2 mile) or so of the extensive cave system here is open to travelers. A well-lit path leads from the entrance through a few small and narrow galleries to a tiny dock on an underground river. Here you board a small rowboat powered by an outboard engine for a quick trip of about 180m (600 ft.) up and down this river before exiting the cave at a dock area crowded with souvenir stands and a little snack bar. The entrance fee is CUC$5, and I don't think it's justified. Moreover, when the buses arrive in force, the line to get in is long and slow moving.
Those with an interest in more serious spelunking should head to Las Cuevas de Santo Tomás. With over 45km (28 miles) of connected tunnels, chambers, and galleries, it's the largest explored cave system in Cuba. Some of these chambers and galleries are quite massive, with impressive stalagmite and stalactite formations. Unlike La Cueva del Indio, this cave system has been left in its natural state and you must visit it with headlamps and flashlights. So far, a relatively simple 1km (1/2 mile) section has been opened for guided tours, although more adventurous spelunking tours are in the works. Visits here, including a guide and equipment, run around CUC$15, and are best booked in advance with one of the tour agencies in town.
In addition to caving, the limestone mountains and karst formations of Viñales make for excellent rock climbing. Although climbing is still in its infancy as a sport in Cuba, the Viñales Valley is rapidly becoming a mecca for local and visiting climbers. So far, over 140 routes have been identified and climbed in the area. Some carry colorful names, such as "Razor's Edge" and "Friday 13th." A few attest to some of the hazards of the area, such as "Feeding Mosquitoes" and "Poison Oak, Guano, and Spines." For more information, check out www.cubaclimbing.com.
Unless you plan on scaling several mogotes, most of the hiking here is gentle and well groomed. There are several popular trails and routes, although you must hire an official guide to hike most of these. One of the most popular hikes is a simple walk through the farms and fincas of the valley just outside of town. This provides wonderful views of the surrounding mogotes, as well as encounters with the local farmers and a firsthand view of the tobacco-growing process. More athletic forays into the nearby forests and hills include hikes to and around the isolated little communities of Los Acuáticos and Ancón, as well as climbs to the summits of several mogotes. Guided hikes should run you between CUC$6 and CUC$20 per person, depending on the route and length of the hike. Do-it-yourselfers can wander the dirt roads and byways of the Viñales Valley, but must stay off the marked trails of Viñales National Park. For more information on guides and organized hikes, ask at your hotel, or check with the local office of the Ministerio de Ciencia, Tecnologia y Ambiente (Ministry of Science, Technology, and Environment), which, at press time, was building its new headquarters on the highway into Viñales, just beyond the Hotel Los Jazmines.
There are few well-defined trails for serious mountain biking, although there are plenty of dirt roads you can explore all around. You can rent late model mountain bikes in pretty good shape for around CUC$5 to CUC$10 per day. Ask at your hotel, or check the stand on the corner across from the main plaza.
