Planning a trip to Toronto

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website, such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter, to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Toronto is one of Canada's most expensive cities (along with Vancouver), but compared with other major world cities, such as New York, London, and Tokyo, it's very affordable. There are some exceptions, like the above-mentioned high taxi fares, pricey museum admissions (especially compared with the recent, progressive programs in places like London that draw crowds with discounted or free admissions), high sales taxes, and thanks to the government monopoly on alcohol, inflated prices for wine, beer, and cocktails.

Currency

Canadians use dollars and cents: Paper currency comes in C$5, C$10, C$20, C$50, and C$100 denominations. Coins come in 1-, 5-, 10-, and 25-cent, and 1- and 2-dollar denominations. The gold-colored C$1 coin is a "loonie" -- it sports a loon on its "tails" side -- and the large gold-and-silver-colored C$2 coin is a "toonie." If you find these names somewhat . . . ah, colorful, just remember that there's no swifter way to reveal that you're a tourist than to say "one-dollar coin."

Ideally, you should exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home; however, it's very easy to withdraw money upon arrival at an ATM at Pearson airport. Check with your local American Express or Thomas Cook office, or with your bank. American Express cardholders can order foreign currency over the phone at tel. 800/807-6233.

It's best to exchange currency or traveler's checks at a bank, not a currency exchange, hotel, or shop. Get up-to-the-minute exchange rates online before you go at www.oanda.com/currency/converter or www.xe.com/ucc.

What Things Cost in Toronto (C$)

Taxi from the airport to downtown 60.00

Subway ride 3.00

Round-trip ticket for the Toronto Island Ferry 6.50

Local telephone call 0.50

Double at the Chelsea Hotel (moderate) 189.00

Soup, sandwich, and frites lunch at Gilead Café (moderate)* 23.00

Three-course dinner for one at Grano (moderate)* 50.00

Pint of beer at Mill Street Brew Pub 7.00

Coca-Cola (355mL/12-oz. can) 1.50

Cup of coffee (black, not latte) 2.00

Admission to the Art Gallery of Ontario 18.00

Movie ticket 12.99

Ticket for the Canadian Opera Company 20.00-317.53

Show at the Second City comedy club 30.00

375mL (12.7-oz.) bottle of Inniskillin Vidal ice wine (LCBO) 79.00

*Includes tax and tip, but not wine

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine," or a "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank. Banks that are members of the Global ATM Alliance charge no transaction fees for cash withdrawals at other Alliance member ATMs; these include Bank of America, Scotiabank (Canada, Caribbean, and Mexico), Barclays (U.K. and parts of Africa), Deutsche Bank (Germany, Poland, Spain, and Italy), and BNP Paribas (France).

Credit Cards

MasterCard and Visa are almost universally accepted in Toronto; American Express has become more common, but many independent boutiques and small restaurants still don't accept it. Overall, credit cards are a smart way to "carry" money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism in Toronto, since ATMs have made getting cash accessible at any time. However, traveler's checks are still widely accepted -- and unlike cash, can be replaced if lost or stolen.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233, or tel. 800/221-7282 for card holders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks serial numbers separate from your checks, in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Another option is the new prepaid traveler's check cards, reloadable cards that work much like debit cards but aren't linked to your checking account. The American Express Travelers Cheque Card, for example, requires a minimum deposit, sets a maximum balance, and has a one-time issuance fee of $15. You can withdraw money from an ATM (for a fee of $2.50 per transaction, not including bank fees), and the funds can be purchased in dollars, euros, or pounds. If you lose the card, your available funds will be refunded within 24 hours.

Getting Around

BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

The Toronto Transit Commission, or TTC (tel. 416/393-4636 for 24-hr. information, recordings available in 18 languages), operates the subway, bus, and streetcars.

Fares, including transfers to buses or streetcars, are $3.25. Seniors and students ages 13 to 19 with valid ID pay $2.10, or five tickets for $10.25; children 12 and under are free. You can buy a special day pass for $12.50 that’s good for unlimited travel for one adult on weekdays and for up to two adults and four children on weekends.

For surface transportation, you need a Presto Card, a token, a ticket (for seniors or kids), or exact change. You can buy tokens and tickets at subway entrances and at authorized stores that display the sign TTC TICKETS MAY BE PURCHASED HERE. Bus drivers do not sell tickets, nor will they make change. Always obtain a free transfer where you board the train or bus, in case you need it. In the subways, use the push-button machine just inside the entrance. On streetcars and buses, ask the driver for a transfer.

The TTC plans to phase out tokens, replacing them with the Presto Card system. The cards cost $6 to purchase (they’re sold online, or can be purchased from vending machines at subway entrances). Everything from loading the card with money to checking a balance, is done through the Presto website. Using the card has three advantages: first, users automatically get the discount fare rate ($3 for adults, $2.10 for seniors and students); second, users get a 2-hour transfer, an asset for sightseers looking to hop on and off the Rocket; finally, should you lose a registered Presto Card, the card can be blocked and the remaining balance can be transferred over to a new card.

The Subway—Compared with snarled surface traffic, the subway is the best way to get around the city. It's clean and very simple to use. There are two major lines—Bloor-Danforth and Yonge-University-Spadina—and two smaller lines, Sheppard, in the northern part of the city, and Scarborough, in the northeastern part of the city. The Bloor Street east-west line runs from Kipling Avenue in the west to Kennedy Road in the east (where it connects with the Scarborough Line, which runs north-east for five stops to McCowan). The Yonge Street north-south line runs from Finch Avenue in the north to Union Station (Front St.) in the south. From there, it loops north along University Avenue and connects with the Bloor line at the St. George station. A Spadina extension runs north from St. George to Vaughan Metropolitan Centre. The Sheppard line connects only with the Yonge line at Sheppard station and runs east through north Toronto for just 6km (3 and 3/4 miles).

The subway operates Monday to Saturday from 6am to 1:30am and Sunday from 8am to 1:30am. From 1am to 5am, the Blue Night Network operates on basic surface routes, running about every 30 minutes. For help planning a route, use the TTC’s Trip Planer (www.ttc.ca/Trip_planner). Given two addresses and a departure time, it will tell you the best transit options.

Buses & Streetcars—Where the subway leaves off, buses and streetcars take over. They run east-west and north-south along the city’s arteries. When you pay your fare (on bus, streetcar, or subway), always pick up a transfer (unless you are using a Presto Card) so that you won’t have to pay again if you want to transfer to another mode of transportation.

A Streetcar Named the Red Rocket—Most North American cities did away with their streetcars decades ago, and there remains a fraternal bond between light-rail-loving metropolises in this land of the car. San Francisco even painted one of its trams red in honor of T.O.’s Red Rockets—the loving name Torontonians call the bright red streetcars. Since 1892, streetcars have been an everyday part of the Toronto commute. Today the city has 11 streetcar lines on 82km (50 miles) of track. The 501 streetcar is the longest surface transit route in North America. Every so often, you’ll spy a vintage trolley careening down a route, but these old beauts are generally deployed only for special occasions. That doesn’t mean that streetcars aren’t great for visitors. A Presto Card grants you 2 hours of unlimited travel. I suggest getting off at Osgoode and taking the 501 Queen car westward: Hop on and off and explore the vibrant neighborhoods of Queen West, Trinity Bellwoods, West Queen West, and Parkdale, and finish by walking up Roncesvalles, the city's Polish strip, where you’ll find heaps of cute bars, cafes, and locally run shops. Plus, some really, really good pierogi.

Taxis & Ridesharing Services—In many cities, taxis are an expensive mode of transportation, but this is especially true of Toronto. Rates are $3.25 the minute you step in and $0.25 for each additional 0.143km (469 ft.). Fares can quickly mount up.

You can hail a cab on the street, find one in line in front of a big hotel, or call one of the major companies—Beck (tel. 416/751-5555), Diamond (tel. 416/366-6868), or Co-Op Cabs (tel. 416/504-2667). If you experience any problems with cab service, call the Metro Licensing Commission (tel 416/392-3082).

At the time of publication, both Lyft and Uber were legal and operating in Toronto. Check for surge pricing before ordering a lift using these apps. At peak hours hailing a ride using Lyft or Uber can be double (or more!) the normal rates. During these periods, a standard taxi is often the cheaper option.

Ferry Service—Day trips by ferry to the Toronto Islands are popular excursions for outdoor activities and great views of the city. Ferries to Toronto Island Park are operated by the city's Toronto Parks, Forestry, and Recreation Division. Ferries leave from the Jack Layton Ferry Terminal, at the foot of Bay Street and Queens Quay. Round-trip fares are $7.90 adults, $5.15 seniors and youths 15–19 (with valid student ID), $3.80 children 2–14, and free for infants under 2. Go to www.toronto.ca or call tel. 416/392-8193 for schedules and information.

BY CAR

Toronto is a rambling city, but that doesn’t mean the best way to get around is by car. There are long traffic jams, especially during morning and afternoon rush hours. A reputation for “two seasons: winter and construction” means the warmer months are especially busy with roadwork. And to make matters worse, there is an escalating turf war between the numerous cyclists and motorists sharing the road.

Parking can be very expensive, too, and the city’s meter maids are notoriously aggressive in issuing pricey parking tickets at any opportunity.

Rental Cars—If you decide to rent a car, try to make arrangements in advance. Companies with outlets at Toronto Pearson International Airport include Thrifty, Budget, Avis, Hertz, National, and Enterprise. The rental fee depends on the type of vehicle, but do keep in mind that the quoted price does not include an added sales tax. It also does not include insurance; if you pay with a particular credit card, you might get automatic coverage (check with your credit-card issuer before you go). Note: If you’re under 25, check with the company—many will rent on a cash-only basis, some only with a credit card, and others will not rent to you at all. Also, keep in mind that you must be 21 or older to rent a car.

Car-rental insurance probably does not cover liability if you cause an accident. Check your own auto insurance policy, the rental company policy, and your credit card coverage for the extent of coverage: Is your destination covered? Are other drivers covered? How much liability is covered if a passenger is injured? (If you rely on your credit card for coverage, you may want to bring a second credit card with you, as damages may be charged to your card and you may find yourself stranded with no money.)

Parking—It can be a hassle to find parking in downtown Toronto, and parking lots have a wide range of fees. Generally speaking, the city-owned lots, marked with a big green “p,” are the most affordable. They charge about $2 per half-hour. After 6pm and on Sunday, there is usually a maximum rate of $12. Observe the parking restrictions—otherwise, the city will tow your car away, and it’ll cost more than $100 to get it back.

Driving Rules—A right turn at a red light is legal after coming to a full stop, unless posted otherwise. Passengers must wear seat belts; if you’re caught not wearing one, the fine is substantial. The speed limit in the city is 50kmph (31 mph). You must stop at pedestrian crosswalks if someone is trying to cross (flashing lights indicate this, but not always—be vigilant and give pedestrians the right of way at all crosswalks). If you are following a streetcar and it stops, you must stop well back from the rear doors so passengers can exit easily and safely. (Where there are concrete safety islands in the middle of the street for streetcar stops, this rule does not apply, but exercise care, nonetheless.) Radar detectors are illegal.

In 2019, Ontario began enforcing a tough new distracted driving law, cracking down on drivers using handheld electronic devices (cellphones, iPods, game devices), with hefty fines and a possible driver's license suspension.

BY BIKE

Toronto is fairly flat and not known for its stunning vistas, making it an easy place to explore by bike. Like many cities in North America, however, the tensions between bikes and cars have been exacerbated in recent years as traffic congestion worsens. Still, the city has begun to embracing cycling culture, with separated bike lanes along key arteries such as Bloor, Richmond, and Adelaide Streets. There are even mixed-use trails that can take you across the city, away from the cars, including the Martin Goodman Trail (a 56km/34-mile waterfront trail that traverses the city, hugging the lake) and the soon-to-be-expanded West Toronto Railpath, which straddles the rail lines, connecting the Junction to Little Portugal. For those who want to escape the motor madness completely: Head to the Toronto Islands, where bikes rule and cars are forbidden.

Cycling is the most effective way to see Toronto, so long as you stick, primarily, to the bike paths. Bike lanes, which are clearly marked, include routes along Davenport Road, Bloor, College/Carlton, Harbord, Richmond, Adelaide, St. George/Beverly, and Sherbourne streets. For cycling maps, and more information, visit www.toronto/ca/cycling. Google Maps has an excellent function that will plot out the most bike-friendly routes.

Renting a bike in Toronto is as easy as downloading an app. Toronto's bike-share program, Bike Share Toronto, has over 3,750 bikes, spread across 75 sq. km (29 sq. miles) of the city. Simply download the CycleFinder app, which will tell you where all 360 bike stations are and allow you to pay for, and have access to, Bike Share rentals. A single trip costs $3.25, a day pass $7, and a 3-day pass is the best value at $15.

Three-day and single-day passes permit unlimited trips; however, each trip is limited to 30 minutes, with penalties of $4 per half-hour of overage time. To circumvent the penalty, simply stop at a station en route and swap bikes. Bikes can be returned to any docking station, so there’s no need to plan a return trip; simply grab a bike and go. The CycleFinder app is a key tool for locating docking stations that have space, and has functions to help with route planning.

In Toronto bikes are expected to follow the same rules of the road that cars do, which means follow all street signs, including stop signs (even on small side streets), never bike on the sidewalk, and always stop behind a streetcar when people are dismounting. You could face a hefty fine for blowing past open streetcar doors.

As a cyclist myself, the best advice I can give you on seeing Toronto by bike is: Be wary of the streetcar tracks, which are the perfect size for catching bike tires—a truly traumatic way to be thrown from your steed. Make sure to cross streetcar tracks at a perpendicular angle.

When to Go

Toronto is a city with four distinctive seasons. Autumn is a particularly good time to visit: The climate is brisk but temperate, the skies are sunny, the trees are a riot of color, and the cultural scene is in full swing. Another great time to see the city—if you don’t mind a dusting of snow—is early winter in December, with holiday festivities for everyone. Spring is pretty, although rainy and cool days can make for a moody stay. Midsummer can be oppressive with heat, but the city has plenty of parks and other places to cool down (like the Toronto Islands). Really, the only time the city can seem unwelcoming is on a windy February day when the temperatures demand thick parkas and multiple layers. In fact, bone-chilling days are less frequent as the planet warms: You could call it a boost for Torontonians and the city’s visitors—at least, for now.

Never mind what the calendar says; these are Toronto’s true seasons: Spring runs from late March to late May (though occasionally there’s snow in April); summer, June to early September; fall, mid-September to mid-November; and winter, late November to sometime in March. The highest recorded temperature is 105°F (41°C); the lowest, –27°F (–33°C). The average date of the first frost is October 13; the average date of last frost is May 4. The windblasts from Lake Ontario can be fierce, even in June. Even in summer, bring a light jacket; brief, intense storms are common.

Don't Forget the Sunscreen: Because of Canada’s image as a land of harsh winters, many travelers don’t realize that summer can be scorching. “The UV index goes quite high, between 7 and 10, in Toronto,” says Dr. Patricia Agin of the Coppertone Solar Research Center in Memphis. A UV index reading of 7 can mean sunburn, so don’t forget to pack sunscreen and a hat, especially if you’re planning to enjoy Toronto’s many parks and outdoor attractions.

Holidays

Toronto celebrates the following holidays: New Year’s Day (January 1), Family Day (third Monday of February), Good Friday (March or April), Victoria Day (Monday on or before May 24), Canada Day (July 1), Civic Holiday (first Monday in August), Labour Day (first Monday in September), Thanksgiving (second Monday in October), Remembrance Day (Only banks and government offices close on November 11), Christmas Day (December 25), and Boxing Day (December 26).

Escorted & Package Tours

Do you really need a package tour to visit Toronto? Generally speaking, no -- it's easy to arrange accommodations and show tickets yourself. However, if you're determined to see a particular show (or the Canadian Opera Company, whose performances often sell out), a package is a good idea. Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices.

One good source of package deals is Tourism Toronto itself, which lists deals on its website (www.seetorontonow.com). Several of Toronto's hotels (including the Park Hyatt, the Fairmont Royal York, and the Chelsea Hotel) offer special packages. Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, and Lastminute.com -- also do a brisk business in packages.

Maxxim Vacations (tel. 800/567-6666; www.maxximvacations.com) is a Canadian company that has a long track record with Toronto package tours. One advantage with their packages is that you can guarantee you get to see the show (or shows) you have your heart set on while in town.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local weekend newspaper and sometimes in midweek editions. Or check ads in national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

There are some great special-interest tours you can take part in while you're in town , and the city is easy to navigate and explore without a group. However, if you do want an escorted tour, there are several options, including Great Adventure Tours (tel. 800/638-3945; www.greatadventuretours.com), which explores Toronto and Niagara, and SWT Tours (tel. 212/988-1359; www.poshnosh.com), which specializes in theater tours.

Health & Safety

Health

Toronto has excellent hospitals and doctors -- though hopefully you won't have any occasion to need these services. Bring any prescriptions you might require with you. Decongestants, cough and cold remedies, and allergy medications are available without prescription in pharmacies. Two major chains dominate. Pharma Plus has many locations around town, including at one at 63 Wellesley St., at Church Street (tel. 416/924-7760), that's open daily from 8am to midnight. Other Pharma Plus branches are in College Park, Manulife Centre, Commerce Court, and First Canadian Place. Shopper's Drug Mart is also everywhere. The only 24-hour drugstore near downtown is the Shopper's Drug Mart at 700 Bay St., at Gerrard Street West (tel. 416/979-2424).

Safety

Toronto enjoys an unusually safe reputation as far as big cities go, although a steady supply of guns coming across the border from the U.S. is damaging the now worn-out reputation of "Toronto the Good." But keep in mind that it is a big city, with all of the difficulties that implies. While lovely parks such as Allan Gardens and Trinity Bellwoods have been cleaned up in recent years, it's best to avoid all big parks after dark unless you're attending a special event such as a theatre performance. During the day, keep your valuables close and your eyes peeled for pickpockets. This is important to keep in mind when you're at a major tourist attraction, on a crowded shopping strip such as Yonge Dundas Square, and on the subway or streetcar.

More about safety on Toronto's public transit system: If it's late and you're alone on an almost-empty platform, wait for the train by the big "DWA" sign (it stands for "Designated Waiting Area," and it has an intercom and a closed-circuit TV camera trained on it). There is a DWA area at every TTC station. If there is an incident on a subway car, press the alarm -- the yellow strip is very visible -- and note that it is silent. If you are traveling by bus, there is a "Request Stop" program in effect between 9pm and 5am, in which female passengers traveling alone can disembark at streets in between regular TTC bus stops. For information about these safety features, visit http://www3.ttc.ca/Riding_the_TTC/Safety_and_Security/index.jsp.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

Toronto is a very accessible city. Curb cuts are well made and common throughout the downtown area; special parking privileges are extended to people with disabilities who have special plates or a pass that allows parking in no-parking zones. The subway and trolleys are not accessible, but the city operates Wheel-Trans, a special service for those with disabilities. Visitors can register for this service. For information, call tel. 416/393-4111 or visit http://www3.ttc.ca/TTC_Accessibility/index.jsp.

Community Information Toronto (425 Adelaide St. W., at Spadina Ave.; tel. 416/397-4636) may be able to provide limited information and assistance about social-service organizations in the city. It does not have specific accessibility information on tourism or hotels, though. It's open daily from 8am to 10pm.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [800/225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the Canadian National Institute for the Blind (CNIB; tel. (416/486-2500; www.cnib.ca) or the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency. Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel.

Visitor Information

The best source for Toronto-specific information is Tourism Toronto (tel. 800/499-2514 from North America or 416/203-2600; www.seetorontonow.com). The website includes sections on accommodations, sights, shopping, and dining, plus up-to-the-minute events information. There's also a "Special Offers" section, which has package deals for hotels, and attractions or shows.

For information about traveling in the province of Ontario, contact Tourism Ontario (tel. 800/ONTARIO [800/668-2746]; www.ontariotravel.net). While in Toronto, visit its information center in the Atrium on Bay (street level) at 20 Dundas St. W. -- it's just across Dundas Street from the Sears store at the northern edge of the Eaton Centre. It's open daily from 8:30am to 4:30pm; hours are extended during the summer, often to 8pm.

Toronto.com (www.toronto.com), operated by the Toronto Star, offers extensive restaurant reviews, events listings, and feature articles. A couple of other great sources for local goings-on and news: the Torontoist blog (www.torontoist.com) and blogTO (www.blogto.com). If you love to shop, check out SweetSpot (www.sweetspot.ca) for its extensive Toronto coverage of local designers and boutiques. www.toronto.com also offers plenty of up-to-date reviews of hotels, nightclubs, restaurants, bars, and shows around town.

BlogTO produces some of my favorite local maps: You can pick them up for free at shops and restaurants around town. At press time, they have produced maps for West Queen West, Leslieville, Parkdale, and Little Italy. Where Toronto also prints good neighborhood maps in the magazine. Online, take a look at Google Maps (http://maps.google.com) for details on getting from Point A to Point B.

Stay on Trend -- Toronto Trending (http://trending.seetorontonow.com) is an online tool that provides a look at what's on, where to eat and stay, cultural highlights, and more, along with live satellite feeds, maps, and other tools.

Tips for Women Travelers

Toronto is an easy place to be for solo travelers, male or female. At night, take note of the TTC's "Request Stop" program for women traveling on buses. Check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real-life" women's travel-information network, where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety. The travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel, 2nd Edition, by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales), offers common-sense tips on safe travel. For general travel resources for women, go to Frommers.com.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

By North American standards, Toronto is an exceptionally green city. It boasts good eco-initiatives such as composting and recycling programs, a powerful local-foods movement, and more. The city's wealth of parkland, even in the downtown core, is a standout. And although there is nothing on the scale of, say, Central Park, green spaces are scattered throughout, from tiny plots in the Financial District to neighborhood gems like Riverdale, Allan Gardens, Trinity Bellwoods, Dufferin Grove, and High Park. (The green spaces are well maintained, but you may notice a fair number of weeds—cosmetic use of pesticides is banned in the city.)

For the eco-conscious visitor looking to conserve fuel and energy when they travel, here are a few simple ways you can help reduce your environmental impact when visiting Toronto:

To help keep the city green, I recommend renting a bike rather than a car. Between the traffic jams, streetcars, and rule-flouting pedestrians, driving in Toronto is a bear anyway, and best avoided. If biking doesn’t appeal, Toronto is an extremely walkable city, with a fabulous transit system that is sure to help you get to where you’re going without an ounce of carbon-footprint guilt.

Each time you take a flight or drive a car, greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through “carbon offsetting”—paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company such as Carbonfund.

Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. To determine the green credentials of a property, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also ask whether sustainable materials were used in the construction of the property. The Drake, the Gladstone, and the Fairmont Royal York are three particularly green hotels that go above and beyond the typical eco norm. No matter where you lay your head (be it a five-star hotel or a B&B), you can help minimize your environmental impact by requesting that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already do this.) Also, remember to turn off the lights and air-conditioner when you leave your room.

Last, but definitely not least, eat at locally owned and operated restaurants that use local, seasonal produce. Ditto for meats: Look for pasture-raised and non-industrial suppliers. Not only do these choices contribute to the local economy, they cut down on greenhouse gas emissions. Toronto has too many restaurants that support the local foods movement to list here, but some suggestions include Edulis, Chantecler, Montecito, Richmond Station, and Actinolite.

Tips for Families

Toronto is a kid-friendly town. There are plenty of great attractions, such as the water park at Ontario Place; the idiosyncratic Ontario Science Centre; Paramount Canada's Wonderland, a conventional theme park on the outskirts of town noted for its super roller coasters; the artsy Harbourfront centre; and the Toronto Zoo, which rivals the great zoos of the world.

If you're already in town, pick up a copy of Toronto Families, a free magazine produced by the publishers of Today's Parent Toronto (an award-winning national magazine). You can also check it out online at www.torontofamilies.ca.

Recommended family travel websites include Help! We've Got Kids (www.helpwevegotkids.com); Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com); Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com); and TravelWithYourKids.com.

Getting There

By Plane

Toronto Pearson International Airport is the busiest airport in Canada, and its terminals are massive (particularly Terminal 1). Almost all flights into Toronto arrive here. Expect a long walk to the Immigration and Customs area, which you will have to clear in Toronto, even if you’re flying on to another Canadian destination. (Maps of both terminals can be found online. Both terminals have tourism information booths.

Canada’s only national airline, Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262), operates direct flights to Toronto from most major American cities and many smaller ones. It also flies from major cities around the world and operates connecting flights from other U.S. cities. It is based in Pearson’s Terminal 1. WestJet (tel. 888/937-8538), based in Calgary, has become an increasingly popular choice for anyone coming to Toronto from the United States, as well as some locations in the Caribbean and Mexico.

Upstart Porter Airlines (tel. 416/619-8622) has gained a great reputation for service and flies to Billy Bishop Toronto City Centre Airport from seven U.S. locations, including New York, Chicago, Boston, and Myrtle Beach, as well as a rapidly increasing number of Canadian cities. Porter, along with a handful of commuter flight services, is the only airline that flies to the Toronto City Centre Airport, which is located on the western side of the Toronto Islands.

Getting into Town from the Airport—To get from the airport to downtown, take Hwy. 427 south to the Gardiner Expressway East. A taxi costs about $60 if you’re going downtown (it’s higher if you’re heading to north or east Toronto).

In operation since 2015, the UP Express airport rail link makes getting downtown a snap. Trains leave from Pearson's Terminal 1, with two stops en route to Union Station. The $13.25 price tag is worth every penny: You’ll be downtown in 25 minutes, and you won’t be wasting away in highway traffic.

The cheapest way to get into town is by bus and subway, which takes about an hour. During the day, take the 192 “Airport Rocket” bus to Kipling station. In the middle of the night, you can take the no. 300A bus to Yonge and Bloor streets. The fare of $3.25 includes free transfer to the subway (which is available until 1:30am).

By Car

Crossing the border between Canada and the U.S. by car gives you a lot of options. If you’re driving from Michigan, you’ll enter at Detroit-Windsor (I-75 and the Ambassador Bridge) or Port Huron–Sarnia (I-94 and the Bluewater Bridge). If you’re coming from New York, you have more options. On I-190, you can enter at Buffalo–Fort Erie; Niagara Falls, New York–Niagara Falls, Ontario; or Niagara Falls, New York–Lewiston. On I-81, you’ll cross the Canadian border at Hill Island; on Rte. 37, you’ll enter at either Ogdensburg-Johnstown or Rooseveltown-Cornwall.

From the United States, you are most likely to enter Toronto from the west on Hwy. 401 or Hwy. 2 and the Queen Elizabeth Way. If you come from the east, via Montreal, you’ll also use hwys. 401 and 2.

Be sure you have your driver’s license and car registration if you plan to drive your own vehicle into Canada. It isn’t a bad idea to carry proof of automobile liability insurance, too.

I don't recommend driving in Toronto, but if you're planning to make side trips outside of the city, you may wish to rent a car in Toronto or at Pearson International Airport. If you pay with a credit card, you might get automatic coverage (check with your credit card issuer before you go). Be sure to read the fine print of the rental agreement—some companies add conditions that will boost your bill if you don't fulfill certain obligations, such as filling the gas tank before returning the car.

By Train

Amtrak's Maple Leaf” service links New York City and Toronto via Niagara Falls, Syracuse, and Albany (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [800/872-7245]). It departs daily from New York's Penn Station. The journey takes 12.5 hours. Note that the lengthy schedule allows for extended stops at Customs and Immigration checkpoints at the border.

VIA Rail Canada (tel. 888/VIA-RAIL [888/842-7245]) is the nation’s top rail line and offers many routes and generally pleasant service. Trains arrive in Toronto at Union Station. The station has direct access to the subway.

By Bus

Greyhound (tel. 877/463-6446) is the best-known bus company that crosses the U.S. border. You can travel from almost anywhere in the United States and Canada. You’ll arrive at the Toronto Coach Terminal downtown at 610 Bay St., near the corner of Dundas Street. Other options include Coach Canada, which travels from many places in the United States, as well as from Quebec, to Ontario, and Megabus.

The bus may be faster and cheaper than the train, and its routes may be more flexible if you want to stop along the way. Bear in mind that it’s more cramped, toilet facilities are meager, and meals are taken at fast-food rest stops.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

After same-sex marriage became legal in Ontario in 2003, gay and lesbian couples flocked to Toronto to marry. Although in July 2006, the Civil Marriage Act legalized same-sex marriage across Canada, pioneer Toronto remains one of the most in-demand wedding destinations for same-sex couples.

If you want to get married in Toronto, it's pretty simple: Go with your partner to the Registrar General's office at 900 Bay St. (at Wellesley), bring ID (including your passport and birth certificate), pay a small fee, and the marriage license will be yours; there's no residency requirement. Visit www.toronto.ca for details and an application form that you can download. For help organizing a wedding beyond the confines of city hall, check out the wedding-planner pages at www.toronto.com. One company that specializes in planning same-sex weddings is I Do in Toronto (tel. 888/418-1188; www.idointoronto.com). While many wedding ceremonies are conducted at the Toronto Civic Wedding Chambers (100 Queen St. W.; tel. 416/363-0316), couples are increasingly choosing to wed elsewhere. One popular place is the Metropolitan Community Church of Toronto (tel. 416/406-6228; www.mcctoronto.com), which has been very active in the battle for same-sex marriage rights.

Orientation

Toronto is laid out in a grid . . . with a few interesting exceptions. Yonge Street (pronounced young) is the main north-south artery, stretching from Lake Ontario in the south well beyond Hwy. 401 in the north. Yonge Street divides western cross streets from eastern cross streets. The main east-west artery is Bloor Street, which cuts through the heart of downtown.

"Downtown" usually refers to the area from Eglinton Avenue south to the lake, between Spadina Avenue in the west and Jarvis Street in the east. Because this is such a large area, it's been divided here into five sections. Downtown West runs from the lake north to College Street; the eastern boundary is Yonge Street. Downtown East goes from the lake north to Carlton Street (once College St. reaches Yonge St., it becomes Carlton St.); the western boundary is Yonge Street. Downtown North extends from College Street north to Davenport Road; the eastern boundary is Jarvis Street. The East End runs east until Woodbine, bound by Danforth and the lake. Downtown North is the area north Davenport Road to Eglinton Avenue. Uptown is anything north of Eglinton.

In Downtown West, you'll find many of the lakeshore attractions: Harbourfront, Ontario Place, Fort York, Exhibition Place, and the Toronto Islands. It also boasts the CN Tower, City Hall, the Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts, the Rogers Centre (formerly known as SkyDome),  Roy Thomson Hall, Chinatown, Kensington Market, the Art Gallery of Ontario, and the Eaton Centre. Downtown East includes the Distillery District, the St. Lawrence Market, the Sony Centre, the St. Lawrence Centre for the Arts, and St. James's Cathedral. Downtown North contains the Royal Ontario Museum, the Gardiner Museum, the University of Toronto, and chic Yorkville, a prime area for shopping and dining. The East End features Riverdale Farm, the historic Necropolis, Leslieville, Greektown, and The Beaches. Midtown is anchored by the Yonge−Eglinton intersection (colloquially referred to as “Young and Eligible” by locals, as most of the sparkly new high rises cater to the city’s young professional population). Uptown has traditionally been a residential area, but it’s now a fast-growing entertainment area, too. Its attractions include the Sunnybrook park system, the Ontario Science Centre, and the stunning Aga Khan Museum. 

North Toronto is another developing area, with theaters such as the Toronto Centre for the Arts, galleries, and some excellent dining. It's not yet a prime tourist destination, but it is on the rise and gets a few mentions throughout this guide.

Note: Some of the primary attractions lie outside the downtown core or even the city limits. The Toronto Zoo, Paramount Canada's Wonderland, and the McMichael Canadian Art Collection are all full- or half-day trips.

Underground Toronto

In cold weather, it’s a good idea to quickly familiarize yourself with the labyrinthine walkways beneath the pavement. This miles-long network is an excellent way to get around the downtown core when the weather is grim. You can eat, sleep, dance, shop, and go to the theater without ever needing a coat.

You can walk from the Dundas subway station south through the Eaton Centre until you hit Queen Street; turn west to the Sheraton Centre and then head south. You’ll pass through the Richmond-Adelaide Centre, First Canadian Place, and Toronto Dominion Centre, and go all the way (through the dramatic Royal Bank Plaza) to the recently revamped Union Station. En route, branches lead off to the stock exchange, Sun Life Centre, and Metro Hall. Additional walkways link Simcoe Plaza to 200 Wellington West and to the CBC Broadcast Centre. Other walkways run around Bloor Street and Yonge Street, and elsewhere in the city. Look for the large, clear underground PATH maps throughout the concourse.

Special-Interest Vacations

Architectural & Cultural Tours

Toronto is a city for walking, and there's no shortage of options for those willing to pound the pavement. The Royal Ontario Museum has a ROMwalks program (tel. 416/586-5513) throughout the summer that offers guided tours of architectural highlights and neighborhoods from the Entertainment District to the Danforth. During the summer, Heritage Toronto (tel. 416/338-0684; www.heritagetoronto.org) offers walking tours of several neighborhoods, including Cabbagetown and Rosedale. If you're in town on the first weekend of May, check out Jane Walks (www.janeswalk.net), in honor of the late Jane Jacobs, the city's beloved author, thinker, and believer in "cities planned for and by people."

Be an Archi-Tourist -- From blogs to talks to walks, there are many ways to stay on top of the city's ever-changing skyline:

• The Toronto Society of Architects offers walking tours on architectural themes from June through September. Tours have included "Toronto's Cultural Renaissance: Buildings of the 21st Century" and "Skyscrapers of the Financial District." For details and schedules, visit www.torontosocietyofarchitects.ca.

• Doors Open Toronto is a popular, free celebration of buildings in and around the city. Each year, during the last weekend in May, more than 150 architecturally significant buildings -- many of them otherwise not accessible to the public -- open their doors to the public. For details, visit www.toronto.ca/doorsopen.

• Jane's Walk is named for the late Toronto-based writer and urban activist Jane Jacobs and allows impassioned residents to lead tours of their neighborhoods each May. What began in 2007 as a local commemoration is now an international phenomenon, with Jane's Walks in 68 cities around the world. For more, see www.janeswalk.net.
• The Design Exchange has year-round programming on architecture themes with exhibits, talks, and film screenings, and its blog gives great insight into local trends. Visit www.dx.org.

• The Pug Awards were launched in 2004 as a way to raise awareness of architectural and design issues in Toronto. The public votes via the Web for the best and worst new buildings of the year. The exposure has shamed developers and lauded unsung works. The Pugs are raising the bar, and hopes, for a better-built tomorrow. There's also a lecture series, "Pug Talks," held throughout the year. For more, see www.pugawards.com.

Bike Tours

Year-round, A Taste of the World Neighbourhood Bicycle Tours and Walks (tel. 416/923-6813; www.torontowalksbikes.com) leads visitors through the nooks and crannies of such places as Chinatown, Yorkville, and Rosedale. It's particularly well known for its "haunted" tours, including one about the ghosts of Yorkville (remember, that chic neighborhood stands atop a former cemetery).

Another option is the Toronto Bicycling Network (tel. 416/766-1985; www.tbn.ca). The association organizes tours and provides information about routes you can explore in and around the city.

Chefs & Gourmets

Bonnie Stern is a local legend, and the Bonnie Stern Cooking School is a wonderful place to pick up some of her culinary secrets (she teaches many of the classes herself). The school is located at 6 Erskine Ave. (3 blocks north of the Eglinton subway station); call tel. 416/484-4810 or visit www.bonniestern.com for information. The school offers classes in everything from challah baking to Moroccan cooking.

The Fairmont Royal York runs a popular Shop with a Chef package that includes a tour of St. Lawrence market and a delicious meal led by the eco-minded executive chef David Garcelon. Winery tours in the Niagara Region are popular and plenty. For more information, go to www.tourismniagara.com/wine_country.html.

Ecology & Wildlife

If you're interested in exploring the Toronto region's natural wonders, contact Toronto and Region Conservation at tel. 416/661-6600 or visit www.trcaparks.ca. The organization offers tours that include bird-watching and wildlife-viewing.

Harbor Tours

Mariposa Cruise Line (tel. 800/976-2442 or 416/203-0178; www.mariposacruises.com) operates 1-hour narrated tours of the waterfront and the Toronto Islands from mid-May to September. Tours leave from the Queen's Quay Terminal at 207 Queens Quay W.

The Kajama, a three-masted, 50m (164-ft.) schooner, offers 90-minute cruises. The schedule varies, but in July and August, three tours a day take place on weekdays and weekends. For more information, call the Great Lakes Schooner Company (249 Queens Quay W., Ste. 111; tel. 800/267-3866 or 416/260-6355; www.greatlakesschooner.com).

TAP into TO, the Toronto Ambassador Program

Following the lead of such cities as New York and Sydney, Toronto is training some of its citizens to act as tour guides in popular neighborhoods. Tours take an hour or more, and they're free of charge. Call tel. 416/338-2786 or head to www.toronto.ca/tapto for more information. Every effort is made to match visitors and greeters by interest, so if you are particularly curious about architecture, history, food, or culture, make sure to mention that when you book your tour.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Visit www.frommers.com/planning for information on how to obtain a passport. For other information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232 or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office (Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2; tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website www.state.gov or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

For citizens of many countries, including the U.S., U.K., Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand, only a passport is required to visit Canada for up to 90 days; no visas or proof of vaccinations are necessary. For the most up-to-date list of visitor visa exemptions, visit Citizenship and Immigration Canada at www.cic.gc.ca.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Canada -- Generally speaking, Canadian Customs regulations are generous, but they get complicated when it comes to firearms, plants, meat, and pets. Visitors can bring rifles into Canada during hunting season; handguns and automatic rifles are not permitted. Fishing tackle poses no problem (provided the lures are not made of restricted materials -- specific feathers, for example), but the bearer must possess a nonresident license for the province or territory where he or she plans to use it. You can bring in, free of duty, up to 50 cigars, 200 cigarettes, and 200g (7 oz.) of tobacco, provided you're at least 18 years of age. You are also allowed 1.2L (41 oz.) of liquor or 1.5L (51 oz.) of wine, as long as you're of age in the province you're visiting (19 in Ontario). There are no restrictions on what you can take out (but if you're thinking of bringing Cuban cigars back to the United States, beware -- they can be confiscated, and you could face a fine). In terms of pets, visitors from the U.S., the U.K., Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand can bring a cat or dog without quarantine. For more information (and for updates on these policies), check with the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 204/983-3500 or 506/636-5064; www.cbsa.gc.ca).

What You Can Take Home from Canada -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263 or www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Calendar of Events

January, February, March, and April are dominated by trade shows, such as the International Boat and Automobile shows, Metro Home Show, Outdoor Adventure Sport Show, and more. For information, call Tourism Toronto (tel. 800/499-2514 or 416/203-2600; www.torontotourism.com).

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Interior Design Show, Metro Toronto Convention Centre. Since 1999 design aficionados have been visiting this 3-day convention, which celebrates design and architecture with fascinating exhibits and interesting speakers. Mid-January.

Winterlicious, citywide. Baby, it’s cold outside, but Toronto’s restaurants really know how to heat things up. Roughly 220 of the city’s finest eateries offer prix-fixe lunch ($23–$33) and dinner menus ($33–$53). Late January through early February. Note: Bookings open early January; spots fill up fast at such hot-ticket restaurants as Canoe.

February

Canadian International AutoShow, Metro Toronto Convention Centre. Every year, almost 300,000 auto fanatics pilgrim here for a 10-day automobile show to ogle the futuristic alternative energy vehicles and souped-up exotics on display.

Kuumba Festival, Harbourfront Centre. One of Toronto’s longest-running festivals celebrating black history and the black community, Kuumba brings photographers, comedians, speakers and performers together.

Lunar New Year Celebrations, various sites in the city. Festivities include traditional and contemporary performances of Chinese, Korean, and Taiwanese opera, dancing, music, and more. Harbourfront often has excellent performances throughout the 2-week fete. For more information on the lineup, visit www.harbourfrontcentre.com.

Rhubarb Festival, Buddies in Bad Times Theatre. Canada’s longest-running new works festival has been putting Canada’s most boundary-pushing theater in front of audiences for the past 4 decades. 

March

Blue Jays Season Opener, Rogers Centre. Turn out to root for your home-away-from-home team. For tickets, visit https://www.mlb.com/bluejays. Late March to early April.

Canada Blooms, Enercare Centre. At this time of year, any glimpse of greenery is welcome. Canada Blooms treats visitors to a sprawling series of indoor gardens and flower displays, seminars with green-thumb experts, and competitions. Second or third week of March.

One-of-a-Kind Craft Show, Enercare Centre. More than 500 crafts artists from across Canada display their unique wares at this craft show. Late March to early April; check for exact dates.

St. Patrick’s Day Parade, downtown. Toronto’s own version of the classic Irish celebration. Call 416/487-1566 or visit www.stpatrickstoronto.com. March 17.  Some years held on different days.

Toronto ComiCon, Metro Toronto Convention Centre. Locals know that this 3-day fete has taken over the Convention Centre when X-Men, Pokemon, and Sailor Scouts are seen riding the streetcars next to the regular nine-to-fivers in suits. Anime lovers and fantasy geeks flock to Toronto for this event, which brings in celebs for panel discussions and fan meet-and-greets. Mid-March; check for dates.

Toronto Festival of Storytelling, various venues. This event celebrates international folklore with almost 100 storytellers imparting legends and fables from around the world. Go to www.torontofestivalofstorytelling.ca. Late March to early April; check for dates.

April

Hot Docs Film Festival, citywide. North America’s largest documentary festival has grown from a modest celebration to a 10-day extravaganza showcasing more than 240 films from some 40 countries. Late April to early May.

Shaw Festival, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. This festival presents the plays of George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries, as well as modern works, too. Early April through first weekend of December.

Total Health Show, Metro Convention Centre. Founded in 1975, this 3-day event organizes panels and events with medical professionals, authors, alternative practitioners, organic farmers, and local chefs to talk about public and personal health issues. Mid-April.

May

Canadian Music Week, citywide. Over the course of this 2-week music fest, more than 1,000 bands from Canada and abroad descend on the city to perform at 60 different venues. There’s also an industry conference with workshops and talks. Mid-May.

CONTACT Photography Festival, citywide. This annual month-long event shows the work of more than 500 Canadian and international photographers. May 1 to 31.

Doors Open Toronto, citywide. Hugely popular, this weekend event invites city residents and visitors alike to tour some of Toronto’s architectural marvels. Some of the more than 150 participating buildings aren’t normally open to the public, and all are free of charge. Late May.

Inside Out, citywide. This 9-day LGBT film festival has nurtured plenty of new talent and supported many established artists. Late May through early June.

The Stratford Festival, Stratford, Ontario. Featuring a wide range of contemporary and classic plays, this festival always includes several works by Shakespeare. Late April through early November.

Pedestrian Sundays, Kensington Market. Throughout the warmer months, Toronto’s colorful Kensington Market is closed to cars. There are impromptu parades, buskers, snack vendors, and artists roaming the streets where cars once parked. Late May through to the end of October.

June

Luminato, citywide. First launched in 2007, this 9-day arts festival has quickly become a highlight on the city’s calendar. Featuring music, dance, theater, art, and educational programs, it really does offer something for the whole family. Early to mid-June.

North by Northeast Festival, citywide. Known in the music biz as NXNE, this hot event features rock and indie bands at multiple venues around town. 

TD Toronto Jazz Festival, citywide. Jazz legends, ingénues, and up-and-comers perform at venues big and small. Recently, the 4-decade-old music fest centered around Yorkville, with pop-up stages and concerts taking place in funky bars and elegant halls such as Koerner Hall. Late June/early July; dates vary.

Toronto International Dragon Boat Race Festival, Centre Island. More than 180 teams of dragon-boaters compete in the 2-day event, which commemorates the death of the Chinese philosopher and poet Qu Yuan. Mid-June.

Pride Toronto, citywide. Celebrating Toronto’s queer community, Pride features events, performances, symposiums, and parties. It culminates in an extravagant Sunday parade, one of the biggest in North America. Late June.

Toronto Fringe Festival, citywide. More than 100 troupes participate in this 11-day grassroots theater festival. Family-friendly works are presented under the FringeKinds! banner. Late June to early July.

July

Beaches International Jazz Festival, Queen Street East, east of Woodbine. Both local and international jazz artists turn out for this annual festival, which plays out over the month of July. All of the performances are free. Late July.

Canada Day Celebrations, citywide. Street parties, fireworks, and other special events commemorate the day. For information, visit the Tourism Toronto website at www.seetorontonow.com. July 1.

Caribbean Carnival, citywide. Toronto’s version of Carnival, colloquially referred to as Caribana, transforms the city for an entire month. It’s complete with traditional foods from the Caribbean and Latin America, ferry cruises, picnics, children’s events, and concerts, and culminates with an epic parade. Early July through early August.

Honda Indy, the Exhibition Place Street circuit. Formerly known as the Molson Indy, this is one of Canada’s major races on the IndyCar circuit. Away from the track, you’ll find live music and beer gardens. Second weekend in July.

RBC Canadian Open, Hamilton Golf & Country Club, Hamilton. Formerly called the PGA Tour Canadian Open, Canada’s national golf tournament has featured the likes of Greg Norman and Tiger Woods. Early July.

Salsa In Toronto, citywide. This 3-week Latino festival culminates with Salsa on St. Clair, a riotous 2-day street party with dancing, vendors, and live music. Early July; dates vary.

Summerlicious, citywide. It’s just like January’s Winterlicious event, except that you can dine alfresco. The prix-fixe menus are some of the best deals around. See www.toronto.ca for details and a complete list of participating restaurants. First 2 weeks of July.

Toronto Summer Music Festival, various venues in Toronto. Whether you’re bonkers about baroque or ravished by the Russian composers, this celebration of classical music is sure to delight. There are concerts, master classes, lectures and more, all on a classic note, of course. Mid-July through early August.


August

BuskerFest, Woodbine Park. Jugglers, acrobats, mimes, magicians, musicians, and other street entertainers swarm this east end park for a 4-day stretch. Late August.

Canadian National Exhibition, Exhibition Place. It’s an old-style touring amusement fair. One of the world’s largest exhibitions, this 18-day extravaganza features midway rides, display buildings, free shows, and grandstand performers. The 3-day Canadian International Air Show (first staged in 1878) is a bonus. Mid-August through Labor Day.

Rogers Cup, Aviva Centre at York University. This international tennis championship is an important stop on the pro tennis tour. Early August.

Taste of the Danforth, Danforth Avenue, starting at Broadview Avenue. Toronto’s Hellenic neighborhood puts on a weekend-long party in August. The major thoroughfare is transformed into a street party fueled by gyros, loukoumades, spanakopita, live music, and ouzo. Opa! Early August.

September

JFL42, citywide. This offshoot of the successful Montréal-based comedy festival Just for Laughs brings to town the world’s top comics, alongside emerging talent. Late September.

Toronto International Film Festival, citywide. The stars come out for one of the largest film festivals in the world. Almost 400 films from 80-plus countries are shown over 10 days. Outside of red-carpet season, award-winning artsy flicks are screened year-round at the TIFF Bell Lightbox. For information, go to www.tiff.net. Mid-September.

Word on the Street, Harbourfront Centre. This literati-loved event celebrates the written word with readings, discounted books and magazines, and children’s events. Other major Canadian cities hold similar events throughout September. Last weekend in September.

October

International Festival of Authors, Harbourfront. Founded in 1980, this renowned 10-day literary festival is arguably the most prestigious in Canada. It draws the absolute top writers from around the world and at home, and has also proven to be an important stage for discovering new talent. Among the literary luminaries who have appeared are Salman Rushdie, Margaret Drabble, Thomas Kenneally, Joyce Carol Oates, A. S. Byatt, and Margaret Atwood. For information, visit www.readings.org. Late October through early November.

Nuit Blanche, citywide. Art takes over the street for this all-night art party. Installations pepper the town, and bars stay open until nearly dawn. For details, visit www.toronto.ca. Early October; some years late September.

Oktoberfest, Kitchener–Waterloo, about 1 hour from Toronto. This famed 9-day drinkfest features cultural events, plus a pageant and parade. Mid-October.

Toronto Maple Leafs Opening Night, Scotiabank Arena. Torontonians love their hockey team, and opening night is always a big event. For tickets, visit www.nhl.com/mapleleafs/tickets. October.

November

Cavalcade of Lights, Nathan Phillips Square. This holiday celebration brings to life the skating rink at City Hall with a fantastic light show, performances, parties, and fireworks. Visit www.toronto.ca for more information. Late November through late December.

Royal Agricultural Winter Fair, Exhibition Place. The 12-day show is the largest indoor agricultural and equestrian competition in the world. Displays include giant vegetables and fruits, homey crafts, farm machinery, livestock, and more. A member of the British royal family traditionally attends the horse show; in 2010, Prince Charles and Camilla cut the ribbon. Mid-November.

Santa Claus Parade, downtown. A favorite with kids since 1905, it features marching bands, floats, clowns, and jolly St. Nick. American visitors are usually surprised that the parade’s in November, but it’s better than watching Santa try to slide through slush. Third Sunday of November.

Toronto Christmas Market, Distillery District. Toronto’s pedestrian-only, redbrick Victorian neighborhood is transformed into a winter wonderland with a giant tree, singing elves, and a European-styled Christmas market, with vendors selling everything from pies to ornaments and slippers. Mid-November until late December.

December

New Year’s Eve at City Hall. In Nathan Phillips Square and in Mel Lastman Square in North York, concerts begin at around 10pm to usher in the countdown to the New Year. Visit www.toronto.ca for more information. December 31.

Staying Connected

Telephones

To call Toronto from the U.S.: Canada and the U.S. use the same area-code system. Simply dial 1, the Toronto area code (416 or 647), and the number.

To call Toronto from other countries:

1. Dial the international access code: 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code 1.

3. Dial the city code 416 or 647, and then the number.

To make international calls -- To make international calls from Toronto, first dial 00, and then the country code (U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. However, if you are calling the U.S. from Toronto, you need only to dial 1 and then the area code and phone number.

For directory assistance -- Dial tel. 411 if you're looking for a phone number; online, visit www.canada411.com.

For operator assistance -- If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 0 (zero).

Toll-free numbers -- Numbers beginning with 800 or 866 are toll-free within Canada and the U.S. However, calling an 800 number from other countries is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Many convenience stores and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to C$50; for international visitors, these can be the least expensive way to call home. It's hard to find public pay phones; those at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from pay phones in most locales cost C50¢ (no pennies). Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within Canada and to the United States, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be very expensive -- usually a charge of C95¢ to C$3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as C$15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0, then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance ("information"), dial tel. 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code, and 555-1212.

Mobile Phones

Most U.S. cellphone carriers have roaming agreements with Canadian cellphone carriers. Before leaving home, check with your carrier for rates and availability. You can rent a cellphone in Toronto from Hello Anywhere (tel. 888/729-4355 or 416/367-4355; www.helloanywhere.com). Also, cellphone rentals are available through many of Toronto's more upscale hotels, including the Park Hyatt Toronto, the Metropolitan Hotel, and the Sutton Place Hotel.

Internet & Wi-Fi

Even budget hotels in Toronto now provide Internet access -- and often Wi-Fi access. If you don't have a computer with you, there's Insomnia (563 Bloor St. W.; tel. 416/588-3907). Another option is FedEx Kinko's. There are several in the city, but one sure bet is the location at 505 University Ave., at Dundas Street West (tel. 416/970-8447).

There's also a not-for-profit group called Wireless Toronto that's dedicated to providing hotspots. You'll need to register online at http://wirelesstoronto.ca; after that, you'll be able to get 20 minutes of free Wi-Fi at places such as Harbourfront's York Quay and Yonge-Dundas Square. A complete list of hotpots is available on the website.

Fast Facts

Area Codes—Toronto’s area codes are 416, 647, and 437; outside the city, the code is 905 or 289. You must dial all 10 digits for all local phone numbers.

Business Hours—Banks are generally open Monday through Thursday from 10am to 5pm, Friday 10am to 6pm. Most stores are open Monday through Wednesday from 10am to 6pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 5pm, with extended hours (until 8 or 9pm) on Thursday and often on Friday.

Customs—Generally speaking, Canadian Customs regulations are generous, but they get complicated when it comes to firearms, plants, meat, and pets. Visitors can bring rifles into Canada during hunting season; handguns and automatic rifles are not permitted. You can bring in, free of duty, up to 50 cigars, 200 cigarettes, and 200g (7 oz.) of tobacco. You are also allowed 1.14L (38 oz.) of liquor, 1.5L (51 oz.) of wine, or 24 cans or bottles of beer. To bring in either alcohol or tobacco, you must be of legal age in the province you’re visiting (19 in Ontario). There are no restrictions on what you can take out. In terms of pets, dogs and cats from rabies-free countries can enter without being quarantined so long as they are up-to-date on their vaccinations with proper veterinarian-provided documentation in hand. For more information (and for updates on these policies), check with the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 or 506/636-5064).

Disabled Travelers—Toronto is a very accessible city. Curb cuts are well-made and common throughout the downtown area; special parking privileges are extended to people with disabilities who have special plates or a pass that allows parking in no-parking zones. The old-generation streetcars are not accessible, though the new generation of streetcars are wheelchair accessible. A growing number of Toronto's subway stations are wheelchair accessible. Upgrade plans call for all stations to be barrier-free and have elevator access by 2025. The city operates Wheel-Trans (tel. 416/393-4111),  a special service for those with disabilities.

Doctors—The staff or concierge at your hotel should be able to help you locate a doctor. You can also call the College of Physicians and Surgeons of Ontario (80 College St.; tel. 800/268-7096) for a referral from 8am to 5pm, Monday through Friday.

Drinking Laws—The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 19 throughout Ontario; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it’s always a good idea to bring ID when you go out.

Bars are usually open until 2am in Toronto, except during special events like the Toronto International Film Festival, when many venues are open later. A government monopoly runs liquor sales: Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO) stores sell liquor, wine, and some beers. Most are open daily from 10am to 6pm (some have extended evening hours). The nicest shop is the LCBO Summerhill (10 Scrivener Sq.; tel. 416/922-0403; subway: Summerhill). Built in a former train station, this outpost hosts cooking classes, wine and spirit tastings, and party-planning seminars. Many large grocery chains now also carry wine, beer, and cider, though the harder stuff is only available through the LCBO.

Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot.

Electricity—Like the United States, Canada uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220 to 240 volts to 110 to 120 volts are difficult to find in Canada, so bring one with you if you need it.

Embassies & Consulates—All embassies are in Ottawa, the national capital. Consulates in Toronto include the Australian Consulate-General (175 Bloor St. E., Ste. 314, at Church St.; tel. 416/323-1155), the British Consulate-General (777 Bay St., Ste. 2800, at College St.; tel. 416/593-1290), and the U.S. Consulate (360 University Ave.; tel. 416/595-1700).

Emergencies—Call tel. 911 for fire, police, or ambulance.

For emergency dental services from 8am till midnight, call the Dental Emergency Service (tel. 416/485-7121). After midnight, your best bet is to call, Telehealth (tel. 866/797-0000), where a registered nurse can advise you on what to do, and which hospitals are optimal for your situation.

Family Travel—Toronto is a kid-friendly town. There are plenty of great attractions, such as the idiosyncratic Ontario Science Centre; Paramount Canada’s Wonderland, a conventional theme park on the outskirts of town noted for its super roller coasters; the artsy Harbourfront Centre; and the Toronto Zoo, which rivals the great zoos of the world.

Gasoline/Petrol—Gasoline is sold by the liter, and taxes are already included in the printed price (unlike most products in Canada). Fill-up locations are known as gas stations or service stations.

Hospitals—In the downtown core, the University Health Network (UHN) manages three hospitals: Toronto General, at 200 Elizabeth St.; Princess Margaret, at 610 University Ave.; and Toronto Western, at 399 Bathurst St. The UHN has a central switchboard for all three (tel. 416/340-3111). Other hospitals include St. Michael’s (30 Bond St.; tel. 416/360-4000) and Mount Sinai (600 University Ave.; tel. 416/596-4200). Also downtown is the Hospital for Sick Children (555 University Ave.; tel. 416/813-1500). Uptown, there’s Sunnybrook Hospital (2075 Bayview Ave., north of Eglinton Ave. E.; tel. 416/480-6100). In the eastern part of the city, go to Toronto East General Hospital (825 Coxwell Ave.; tel. 416/461-8272).

Health—Toronto has excellent hospitals and doctors—though hopefully you won’t have any occasion to need these services. Bring any prescriptions you might require with you. Decongestants, cough and cold remedies, and allergy medications are available without prescription in pharmacies. Shopper’s Drug Mart is ubiquitous; there you can buy over-the-counter drugs, have prescriptions filled, and pick up any toiletries you might need. The only 24-hour drugstore near downtown is the Shopper’s Drug Mart, 700 Bay St., at Gerrard Street West (tel. 416/979-2424).

Insurance—Even though Canada is just a short drive or flight away for many Americans, U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage here, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services up front and reimburse you only after you return home. Similarly, for Europeans, EHIC is not accepted in Canada. As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance. For repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, it is also recommended to purchase travel insurance from a reputable company.

Internet & Wi-Fi—Even budget hotels in Toronto now provide Wi-Fi access. Most cafes and restaurants are happy to share Wi-Fi passwords with their customers; just ask.

Legal Aid—If you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), you’ll be given a ticket that you pay at a later date. Pay fines online, by mail or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here, the burden is on the state to prove a person’s guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. International visitors should call their embassy or consulate. If you need to get a lawyer while in Toronto, contact the Law Society of Ontario (tel. 800/668-7380 or 416/947-3300).

LGBT Travelers—After same-sex marriage became legal in Ontario in 2003, gay and lesbian couples flocked to Toronto to marry. Although in July 2006, the Civil Marriage Act legalized same-sex marriage across Canada, pioneer Toronto remains one of the most in-demand wedding destinations for same-sex couples.

If you want to get married in Toronto, it’s pretty simple: download the marriage license from the Toronto City website and bring the completed form and ID (including your passport and birth certificate) to the City Clerk’s Office (100 Queen St.), where you’ll be asked to pay a small fee; there’s no residency requirement.

Mail—Postage for letter mail (up to 30g/1 oz.) to the United States costs $1.20; overseas, it’s $2.50. Mailing letters within Canada costs $1. Note that there is no discounted rate for mailing postcards. For more information, go to www.canadapost.ca.

Postal services are available at some drugstores. Almost all drugstores sell stamps, and many have a separate counter where you can ship packages from 8:30am to 5pm. Look for a sign in the window indicating such services. There are also post-office windows in Atrium on Bay (tel. 416/506-0911), in Commerce Court (tel. 416/956-7452), and at the TD Centre (tel. 416/360-7105).

Mobile Phones—Most U.S. cellphone carriers have roaming agreements with Canadian cellphone carriers. Before leaving home, check with your carrier for rates and availability. If your phone is unlocked, buying a prepaid local SIM card is probably your cheapest option. Local telecom companies (Fido, Rogers, Telus, Bell, and Freedom Mobile) have stores scattered around the city, as well as booths in most malls.

Money—Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. Currency conversion rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website for up-to-the-minute rates. Get up-to-the-minute exchange rates online before you go at www.oanda.com/currency/converter or www.xe.com/ucc.

Currency—Canadians use dollars and cents: Paper currency comes in $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100 denominations. Coins come in 1-, 5-, 10-, and 25-cent, and 1- and 2-dollar denominations. The gold-colored $1 coin is a “loonie”—it sports a loon on its “tails” side—and the large gold-and-silver-colored $2 coin is a “toonie.” If you find these names somewhat…ah, colorful, just remember that there’s no swifter way to reveal that you’re a tourist than to say “one-dollar coin.”

Ideally, you should exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home; however, it’s very easy to withdraw money upon arrival at an ATM at Pearson airport. It’s best to exchange currency at a bank, not a currency exchange, hotel, or shop.

ATMs—The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a “cash machine,” or a “cashpoint.” The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card’s website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards—MasterCard and Visa are almost universally accepted in Toronto; American Express has become more common, but many independent boutiques and small restaurants still don’t accept it. Overall, credit cards are a smart way to “carry” money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you’ll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% “transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad (whether you’re using the local currency or your native currency).

Traveler’s Checks—Traveler’s checks are something of an anachronism in Toronto. Most banks no longer issue traveler’s checks, nor do they cash them.

Medical Conditions—If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you—smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties.

For HIV-positive visitors, Canada does not require testing to enter the country on a tourist visa. However, travelers can be denied entry to Canada if they are assessed as requiring health services during their stay. (Canada does not cover medical costs incurred by travelers.)

Newspapers & Magazines—The four daily newspapers are the Globe and Mail, the National Post, the Toronto Star, and the Toronto Sun. Now is the free arts-and-entertainment weekly. Xtra! is a free weekly targeted at the gay and lesbian community. In addition, many English-language ethnic newspapers serve Toronto’s Portuguese, Hungarian, Italian, East Indian, Korean, Chinese, and Caribbean communities. Toronto Life is the major monthly city magazine.

Passports—For information specific to your country’s passport application process, contact the appropriate agency:

For Residents of Australia—Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232 or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Ireland—Contact the Passport Office (tel. 1/671-1633).

For Residents of New Zealand—Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 4/463-9360.

For Residents of the United Kingdom—Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS) at tel. 300/222-0000.

For Residents of the United States—To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Police—In a life-threatening emergency, call tel. 911. For all other matters, contact the Toronto Police Service (40 College St.; tel. 416/808-2222).

Safety—Toronto enjoys an unusually safe reputation as far as big cities go, although a steady supply of guns coming across the border from the U.S. is damaging the now worn-out reputation of “Toronto the Good.” But keep in mind that Toronto is a big city, with all of the difficulties that implies. During the day, keep your valuables close and your eyes peeled for pickpockets. This is important to keep in mind when you’re at a major tourist attraction, on a crowded shopping strip such as Yonge Dundas Square, and on the subway or streetcar.

More about safety on Toronto’s public transit system: If it’s late and you’re alone on an almost-empty platform, wait for the train by the big “DWA” sign (it stands for “Designated Waiting Area,” and it has an intercom and a closed-circuit TV camera trained on it). There is a DWA area at every TTC station. If there is an incident on a subway car, press the alarm—the yellow strip is very visible—and note that it is silent. If you are traveling by bus, there is a “Request Stop” program in effect between 9pm and 5am, in which vulnerable passengers can disembark at streets in between regular TTC bus stops. For information about these safety features, visit www3.ttc.ca.

Senior Travel—The term “seniors” is proving to be more elastic than most face-lifts. Boomers in the above-50 group should check out the local magazine Zoomer, which is connected to CARP (Canadian Association of Retired Persons; tel. 416/363-8748). Members of CARP or AARP (the American analog; tel. 888/687-2277) can get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. Otherwise, seniors can expect to receive discounts on the TTC (subway and bus), and on many (but not all) admissions to attractions. Keep in mind that it is usually necessary to show photo identification when purchasing discounted tickets or admissions.

Smoking—The Smoke-Free Ontario Act, which came into effect in 2006, is one of the most stringent in North America. It bans smoking in all workplaces and in all public spaces. In Ontario, smoking is not permitted in restaurants, bars, or on patios. In 2014, the city council passed a city by-law also making parks, beaches, and sports fields smoke-free zones.

Taxes—On July 1, 2010, the Ontario government implemented a “harmonized” tax system, with a 13% sales tax on virtually everything for sale. (Previously, the federal GST was 5% and the Ontario sales tax was 8%, but the Ontario sales tax was not applied to purchases such as fast-food meals.) Taxes are added when you purchase an item, rather than being included in the original price, as is common in much of Europe.

Within the city of Toronto, a bylaw was introduced in 2009 that obliges retailers to charge a minimum of 5 cents per plastic bag. There are no exceptions to this rule. (The funds collected are not really a tax, since they go into the store’s coffers and not the city’s, but some people consider this a tax on shoppers.)

Telephones—To call Toronto from the U.S.: Canada and the U.S. use the same area-code system. Simply dial 1, the Toronto area code (416, 437, or 647), and the number.

To call Toronto from other countries:

1. Dial the international access code: 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.
2. Dial the country code 1.
3. Dial the city code 416 or 647, and then the number.

International calls: To make international calls from a Toronto landline, first dial 00, and then the country code (U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. However, if you are calling the U.S. from Toronto, you need only to dial 1 and then the area code and phone number.

For directory assistance—Dial tel. 411 if you’re looking for a phone number; online, visit www.canada411.com.

For operator assistance—If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 0 (zero).

Toll-free numbers—Numbers beginning with 800 or 866 are toll-free within Canada and the U.S. However, calling an 800 number from other countries is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Many convenience stores and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors, these can be the least expensive way to call home. It’s hard to find public pay phones; those at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from pay phones in most locales cost C50ce (no pennies). Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within Canada and to the United States, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area code 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, “dating” services, and so on) can be very expensive—usually a charge of $1 to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0, then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance (“information”), dial tel. 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code, and 555-1212.

Time—Toronto is on Eastern Standard Time. When it’s noon in Toronto, it’s 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it’s 7am in Honolulu (HST), 10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (also on EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney (UTC + 9).

Daylight Saving Time is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November. Daylight Saving Time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping—Tips are a very important part of certain workers’ income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor!) In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you’ve left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge $2 or more only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 or more every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2 to $3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets—You won’t find public toilets or “restrooms” on the streets in Toronto, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Public parks also offer restrooms, although they may be closed and/or not very clean. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons. You can also find restrooms throughout the underground PATH system near the various food courts. There are restrooms at major subway stations, such as Yonge-Bloor, which are best used in the daytime when the subways are busy.

Visas—For citizens of many countries, including the U.S., U.K., Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand, only a passport is required to visit Canada for up to 90 days; no visas or proof of vaccinations are necessary. For the most up-to-date list of visitor visa exemptions, visit Citizenship and Immigration Canada.

Visitor Information—The best source for Toronto-specific information is Tourism Toronto (tel. 800/499-2514 from North America or 416/203-2600). The website includes sections on accommodations, sights, shopping, and dining, plus up-to-the-minute events information.

For information about traveling in the province of Ontario, contact Tourism Ontario (tel. 800/668-2746 from North America or 416/314-5899). While in Toronto, visit its information center at Union Station. Toronto.com, operated by the Toronto Star, offers extensive restaurant reviews, events listings, and feature articles. A couple of other great sources for local goings-on and news: Toronto Life and blogTO.

Water—Toronto’s tap water is safe to drink, and it is tested continuously to guarantee public safety. For details, visit the City of Toronto’s water information page at www.toronto.ca/water. When it comes to swimming, only swim at one of the city’s eight Blue Flag beaches, and make sure to check water-quality levels before wading into the lake. You can download the Swim Guide app, or check the website to see the latest testing results. This is particularly important after heavy rains, when E. coli levels are often highest.

Wi-Fi—See “Internet & Wi-Fi,” earlier in this section.

Women Travelers—Toronto is an easy place to be for solo travelers, male or female. At night, take note of the TTC’s “Request Stop” program for women traveling on buses. For general travel resources for women, go to Frommers' Tips for Women Travelers.

Tips for Senior Travelers

The term "seniors" is proving to be more elastic than most face-lifts. Boomers in the above-50 group should check out the local magazine Zoomer, which is connected to CARP (Canadian Association of Retired Persons; tel. 416/363-8748; www.carp.ca). Members of CARP or AARP (the American analog; tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org) can get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. Otherwise, seniors can expect to receive discounts on the TTC (subway and bus), and on many (but not all) admissions to attractions. Keep in mind that it is usually necessary to show photo identification when purchasing discounted tickets or admissions.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Downtown West

The Toronto Islands
These three islands in Lake Ontario are a slice of cottage country with a cityscape backdrop. They’re home to some 600-odd residents and no cars. During the warmer months, the islands are a top recreation destination, where locals go to bike, swim, boat, and picnic. Centre Island, the most visited of the islands, holds the children’s theme park Centreville and a cedar maze confusing enough to trap Dedalus. Catch the ferry at the foot of Bay Street by Queen’s Quay. You can rent bicycles, canoes, kayaks, and SUPs on the island.

• Best for: Outdoor activities, amusement park
• What you won't find: Great dining, museums
• Neighborhood parameters: Islands Ward’s, Algonquin, and Centre

Harbourfront/Lakefront
The landfill where the railroad yards and dock facilities once stood is now a glorious playground opening onto the lake. The waterfront has been enlivened with pristine sand beaches (for sunbathing, not swimming—this is still a working port) and a multi-sport trail that tourists often accidentally stroll into only to meet oncoming bikes. The main draw is the Harbourfront Centre, one of the most vibrant literary, artistic, and cultural venues in Canada. The Harbourfront Centre is home to the Power Plant Contemporary Art Gallery, seven stages (some outdoors) that feature an eclectic range of programming (from vegetarian food festivals to klezmer bands), and a skating rink that looks out over Lake Ontario.

• Best for: Museums, skating, festivals, concerts, and accessing the Toronto Islands by ferry
• What you won't find: Great dining, good bars
• Neighborhood parameters: Queens Quay from Bathurst Street to Yonge Street

Southcore 
Toronto’s youngest neighborhood was born from underutilized railroad lands that began sprouting condos in the late aughts. The fast-growing hood is expected to reach a population of 130,000 by 2031 with most of the condos populated by locals in their 20s and 30s. Here, you’ll also find the Rogers Centre (home base for the Toronto Blue Jays) and the Scotiabank Arena (home to both the Maple Leafs and Raptors). Other top attractions include the CN Tower and Ripley's Aquarium of Canada.

• Best for: Sports games, concerts, the CN Tower, access to Union Station
• What you won't find: Good nightlife, shopping, culture
• Neighborhood parameters: Front Street to the Gardiner, bookended by Reese and Yonge streets

Financial District 
The city’s first skyscrapers rose here. Today, Toronto’s major banks and insurance companies still have their headquarters here. Although the 19th-century office buildings have been dwarfed by glass towers, some of the older structures have been preserved. Ultramodern Brookfield Place incorporated the facade of a historic bank building into its design. The original Toronto Stock Exchange, similarly, is nested into the base of the Ernst & Young Tower. The ex-TSX is now home to the Design Exchange (DX), a museum dedicated to Canadian design. Thanks to generous expense accounts, this area boasts no shortage of luxe restaurants including fine-dining stalwart Canoe. Below the sidewalk are heaps of stores and restaurants along the subterranean avenues of the PATH system.

• Best for: Fine dining, access to the PATH system (the underground networks connecting buildings and subways)
• What you won't find: Nightlife, above-ground shopping
• Neighborhood parameters: Front Street north to Queen Street, between Yonge and York streets

Entertainment District 
Also known as the Theatre District, this area is dense with big-name venues, including the Royal Alexandra Theatre, the Princess of Wales Theatre, Roy Thomson Hall, and Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts. The stretch of King Street from Spadina to Bathurst has become the city’s party mecca. Avoided by locals, swarmed by suburbanites, the strip becomes one big bash come Saturday night. In September, the festive atmosphere is amplified by the Toronto International Film Festival. The TIFF Bell Lightbox transforms into red-carpet HQ for 2 weeks of celebrities, premieres, and epic fetes.

• Best for: Nightlife, restaurants, shopping, celebrity spotting, live theater
• What you won't find: Museums
• Neighborhood parameters: Front Street north to Queen Street and from Bay Street west to Bathurst Street

Chinatown 
Toronto has a large Chinese population dispersed throughout the city, but this was home to the first great wave of Chinese immigrants. It’s changed since its early days, particularly because of the infusion of Hong Kong money. The strip’s eastern front is marked by the glass-and-blue-titanium-clad Art Gallery of Ontario.

• Best for: Cantonese and Vietnamese food, made-in-China trinkets, bubble tea, the Art Gallery of Ontario
• What you won't find: Evening entertainment
• Neighborhood parameters: Dundas Street West from University Avenue to Spadina Avenue and north to College Street

Kensington Market 
This is one of Toronto’s most colorful neighborhoods. Successive waves of immigrants—Eastern European Jews, Latin Americans, Portuguese, West Indians, and more—have left their mark. Filled with tiny but wonderful food shops, restaurants, and vintage clothing stores, it’s easy to while away an afternoon here (especially on the car-free summer Sun, when the area becomes a pedestrian-only zone with impromptu parades and buskers on every corner).

• Best for: Cheap eats, hip bars, gourmet groceries, vintage stores
• What you won't find: Cars on the last Sunday of the summer months
• Neighborhood parameters: Spadina Avenue to Bathurst Street, Dundas Street West to College Street West

Queen Street West
This stretch offers an eclectic mix of mainstream shops, funky boutiques, textile stores, and vintage-clothing emporiums. It’s also packed with eateries: Bistros, cafes, and gourmet food shops line the street. Despite the intrusion of mega-retailers, many independently owned boutiques still flourish. It’s also home to the city’s oldest still-operating music venue, the Horseshoe Tavern, which remains a great place to catch local bands on the upswing.

• Best for: Shopping, casual dining, live music
• What you won't find: Museums, parks
• Neighborhood parameters: University Avenue to Bathurst Street

• Best for: Unique shopping, great coffee, park strolls, people-watching
• What you won't find: Quiet—this area is populated by colorful characters
• Neighborhood parameters: Queen Street from Bathurst to Roncesvalles

Parkdale
Originally a village outside the city limits, Parkdale was a posh burg popular with Toronto’s well-to-do, thanks to its proximity to Sunnyside Beach and the Canadian National Exhibition. Then in 1955 the city built the Gardiner Expressway, severing Parkdale from the lake. Property values plummeted, and mansions become rooming houses and fell into disrepair. Today, the neighborhood attracts artists and eccentrics and is home to the city’s largest Tibetan population.

• Best for: Local designers, Tibetan and vegan food, bar scene
• What you won't find: Museums, parks
• Neighborhood parameters: Dufferin Street to Roncesvalles Avenue along Queen Street West

Roncesvalles 
Once a predominantly Polish enclave, Roncy, as it’s called by locals, has become one of Toronto’s most coveted neighborhoods. You can still buy great pierogis and pączki here, and Sunday mornings the streets are crowded with Catholic worshipers, but most days the avenue is full of stroller-pushing young families. The retail strip is made up of enchanting independent shops selling everything from eco furniture to fresh-made pasta and locally designed clothes. Thankfully, there’s a cafe every few hundred feet to fuel the shopping spree. Flanked by High Park to the west and Sorauren Park to the east, this is a great area to while away a low-key afternoon.

• Best for: Polish food, shopping, brunch, cafes, parks
• What you won't find: Museums
• Neighborhood parameters: Roncesvalles Avenue runs from Queen Street to Dundas Street

Dundas West/Little Portugal 
This neighborhood became Toronto’s hippest dining destination when Ossington Avenue, a once-downtrodden strip of mechanics, became the street to eat and drink. Dine at one of the excellent restaurants or people-watch from a patio—Bellwoods Brewery has great beer and the best view. The watering holes continue west down Dundas Street, with many of the cooler spots tucked into secret basements, with only a queue announcing their existence.

• Best for: Nightlife, indie concerts, snack bars, quirky shops, galleries, local beer
• What you won't find: Mainstream retailers
• Neighborhood parameters: Extending just north of Dundas West, this area stretches from Ossington Avenue to Lansdowne Avenue, bound on the south by the railroad tracks and Queen Street

Little Italy 
Charming sidewalk cafes and bodegas cater to the longstanding Italian and Portuguese communities that call these winding streets home. The trattorias along College are being slowly replaced by a new generation of restaurants serving upscale Chinese, elegant Spanish, esoteric beers, and fancy tacos. In the evenings, the Royal Cinema is a great place to catch an art-house flick. During the day, the Art Deco building operates as a production studio where you can sometimes spy famous Canadian directors like Atom Egoyan and Bruce McDonald.

• Best for: Contemporary dining, Italian trattorias, cafes, upscale bars, live music at the Mod Club
• What you won't find: Museums, galleries
• Neighborhood parameters: College Street, between Bathurst and Ossington streets

The Junction & Junction Triangle
Although this neighborhood is now home to three breweries and dozens of chic-yet-affordable restaurants with interesting wine lists, prohibition was only lifted here in 2000. The Junction was long a rough area, a pocket of abattoirs, foundries, and factories that attracted unsavory characters and drink-fueled debauchery. Booze was banned here in 1904. With few restaurants and no bars, the retail strip went dormant until the 21st century, when people awoke to its heaps of yesteryear charm. Just east, in the Junction Triangle, is Sterling Road, an industrial street that has become a cultural destination for its Museum of Contemporary Art Toronto Canada.

• Best for: Antiquing, breweries, brunch, restaurants, galleries, independent shops
• What you won't find: Easy transit accessibility, other tourists
• Neighborhood parameters: Dundas West to Annette Street between Keele and Runnymede streets

Downtown East

Old Town/St. Lawrence Market 
During the 19th century, this area was the focal point of the community (it's the site of Toronto’s first city hall). Today, the St. Lawrence Market is still going strong, and attractions such as the glorious St. James Cathedral, Sony Centre for the Arts, and Hockey Hall of Fame continue to draw visitors. It’s also an area on the rise with fine restaurants and stellar furniture shops.

• Best for: Antiquing, historical buildings (like the old City Hall and the Gooderham and Worts Distillery), galleries, live theater, the St. Lawrence Market
• What you won't find: Free parking
• Neighborhood parameters: East of Yonge Street, between the Esplanade and Adelaide Street

Cabbagetown
Once considered a slum, Cabbagetown is now filled with beautifully restored Victorian and Queen Anne–style houses. Even the first housing project in Canada, Spruce Court (at the intersection of Sumach and Spruce streets), looks like a charming collection of cottages.

• Best for: Riverdale Farm, Parks, Lunch
• What you won't find: Good nightlife, museums,
• Neighborhood parameters: Wellesley Street East to Shuter Street, Parliament Street to Sherbourne Street

The Beaches 
Located just 35 minutes from downtown at the end of the Queen Street East streetcar line is a beach community with small-town pride and a bustling main strip animated by independent specialty shops. A popular summer resort in the mid-1800s, the Beaches is a top sunny-weather destination for swimming along the sandy beaches and strolling the boardwalk. Walk the leafy streets to see gorgeous Victorians with wraparound porches, but note that the prettiest building might just be the R. C. Harris Water Treatment Plant. This Art Deco water palace is free to walk around (the grounds boast amazing views), but the building only opens to the public during Doors Open Toronto, an annual springtime event.

• Best for: Outdoor summer fun, the Beaches International Jazz Festival, beaches, parks
• What you won't find: Good nightlife, bad ice cream
• Neighborhood parameters: Victoria Park Avenue on the east to Kingston Road on the north, to Coxwell Avenue on the west, south to Lake Ontario

Leslieville
Once a down-on-its-luck nabe, this area has been entirely transformed. The Broadview Hotel, a breathtaking red-sandstone Romanesque Revival building that spent decades as a flophouse before being remade into a ultra-trendy boutique hotel in 2018, was the last of the grimy old guard to fall. From the hotel’s swanky rooftop patio you can see Toronto’s silhouette to the west. Leslieville fans out to the east with boutiques, vintage and antique stores, cafes, bars, and excellent bistros.

• Best for: Sunday brunch, specialty shops, cafes, sundowners atop the Broadview Hotel
• What you won't find: Museums, crowds
• Neighborhood parameters: Bound by the railway track to the north, Eastern Avenue to the south and bookended by the Don River and Coxwell Avenue

• Best for: Indian food, textiles
• What you won't find: Museums, nightlife
• Neighborhood parameters: Gerrard Street East, between Greenwood Avenue and Main Street

Downtown North

Queen's Park and the University 
This is home to the many of the colleges and buildings that make up the handsome campus of the University of Toronto and the Ontario Legislature. When the lush lawn of Queens Park isn’t the scene of a peaceful protest, you can often spy some of the province’s top politicians taking strolls between parliamentary sessions. The neighborhood’s main artery, Avenue Road, is flanked by two of the best museums in town. On the east is the Gardiner Museum, holding a trove of globe-spanning ceramics. On the west is the Royal Ontario Museum, Canada’s most-visited museum, which boasts a broad collection ranging from natural history to world culture.

• Best for: Architecture, lectures at U of T, the Ontario Legislature, museums (the Gardiner and Royal Ontario)
• What you won't find: Shopping, exciting dining options
• Neighborhood parameters: From College Street to Bloor Street, between Spadina Avenue and Bay Street.

Yorkville 
Yorkville was Toronto’s Haight-Ashbury in the 1960s (Neil Young and Joni Mitchell got their starts performing at the coffeehouses here). In the '80s, the vibe shifted from hippie to haute. Now, Hermes, Chanel, and Versace all have flagships along a stretch of Bloor nicknamed the Mink Mile for its high-end shops. Tucked north of Bloor are pretty streets with small boutiques and heaps of fancy restaurants, many worth their price tags.

• Best for: People-watching, upscale shopping, luxe dining
• What you won't find: Anything affordable
• Neighborhood parameters: Bloor Street to the south, Davenport Road to the north, Yonge Street to the east and Avenue Road to the west

The Annex 
This largely residential neighborhood is a mix of small parks, handsome homes, and a strip along Bloor Street West that offers some good shopping for books and knickknacks, plus a few attractive restaurants and pubs and two unique attractions, the Bata Shoe Museum and Koerner Hall. Revered urban-planning guru the late Jane Jacobs called this area home.

• Best for: Bookstores, youthful nightlife, lunch specials catering to student budgets, concerts at Koerner Hall
• What you won't find: Honest Ed’s (the landmark discount store, with its giant marquee lit up with 23,000 light bulbs). It was demolished in 2018.
• Neighborhood parameters: Bedford Road to Bathurst Street and from Harbord Street to Dupont Avenue

Koreatown
This bustling stretch of Bloor is filled with Korean restaurants, alternative-medicine practitioners (such as herbalists and acupuncturists), and shops filled with made-in-Korea merchandise.

• Best for: Korean restaurants, Korean tchotchkes, movies screened under the stars at Christie Pits park
• What you won't find: Museums, galleries
• Neighborhood parameters: Bloor Street West, between Bathurst and Christie streets

Bloorcourt & Bloor Dale
This unpolished section of Bloor Street is Toronto in a nutshell. Ethiopian convenience stores, vegan bakeries, pho purveyors, Mexican hot tables, Jamaican patty shops, and red-sauce Italian joints do brisk business during the daytime. Come night, the unfussy watering holes attract stylish hipsters. The bars here tread the line between dive-y and cool, but stay firmly in the latter category thanks to excellent beer lists and well-curated soundtracks.

• Best for: Cafes, nightlife, multicultural pockets
• What you won't find: Museums, parks
• Neighborhood parameters: Bloor Street West from Christie Street to Lansdowne

Rosedale 
Rosedale is named after the residence of Sheriff William Jarvis, who is largely credited with ending the 1837 Upper Canada Rebellion. Meandering these quiet, tree-lined avenues offers a tour of some of Toronto’s grandest old homes, many backing onto wildlife-filled ravines. GPS is helpful here; the snaking streets make it easy to get lost. Make sure to use it when braving 30-minute ravine walk to the Evergreen Brick Works—the signs aren’t particularly helpful. Straight as an arrow, though, is the Yonge retail strip, crowned by the Summerhill LCBO, an expansive liquor store housed in a restored train station (a great spot to pick up Canadian spirits, beers, and wines).

• Best for: Access to the Evergreen Brick Works and Edwardian, Victorian, and neo-Georgian architecture
• What you won't find: Nightlife
• Neighborhood parameters: Bloor Street to the train tracks just south of St. Clair Avenue, spanning from Yonge Street to Rosedale Valley Road

Church and Wellesley/The Gay Village 
In the heart of Toronto’s LGBT community you’ll find the world’s oldest queer bookstore (Glad Day Bookshop), excellent nightlife (Crews & Tangos is known for epic drag performances that erupt into dance parties), and alternative theatre (Buddies in Bad Times Theatre produces edgy, contemporary plays that put queer voices front and center). Come June, the Village, as it’s called by locals, is a riot of color and bared bodies—this is the epicenter of Toronto’s Gay Pride festivities.

• Best for: Gay bars, great nightlife, exhibitions at the Canadian Lesbian and Gay Archives, queer theater, rainbow paraphernalia
• What you won't find: Lesbian bars (they’re scattered about the west end)
• Neighborhood parameters: Between Gerrard Street and Bloor Street East, along Church Street

The East End

Cabbagetown 
Writer Hugh Garner described this as the largest Anglo-Saxon slum in North America, long before it became a gentrified neighborhood of restored, often pretty and pricey, Victorian and Edwardian homes. The name is an historical reference: The original Irish immigrants who settled here in the late 1800s grew row upon row of cabbages on their front lawns. Riverdale, Toronto’s only inner-city farm, is at the eastern edge of the district.

• Best for: Visiting the animals at Riverdale Farm, concerts at the Phoenix, design shops
• What you won't find: Nightlife, museums
• Neighborhood parameters: East of Parliament Street to the Don Valley and between Gerrard and Bloor streets

Greektown 
Across the Don Valley Viaduct, Bloor Street becomes the Danforth, which marks the beginning of Greektown. It’s lined with old-style Greek tavernas and hip Mediterranean bars and restaurants that are crowded from early evening into the night. The densest wining-and-dining area starts at Broadview Avenue and runs about eight blocks east.

• Best for: Mediterranean restaurants, Greek pastries, Taste of the Danforth, concerts at the Danforth Music Hall
• What you won't find: Museums, galleries
• Neighborhood parameters: Danforth Avenue from Broadview Avenue to Greenwood Avenue

Uptown

St. Clair West/Corso Italia 
Until not long ago, this was a modest residential neighborhood where Torontonians would venture for some great Italian gelato or for a street party during the World Cup. Now the area and beyond is proving popular for its good cafes, fine Jamaican fare, and the Artscape Whychwood Barns, a century-old streetcar facility transformed into a mixed-use space shared by artists’ studios, a farmer's market, community gardens, and an events space.

• Best for: Italian food (hot tables, casual trats, upscale enotecas, cafes, and gelato shops), Artscape Whychwood barns
• What you won't find: Nightlife
• Neighborhood parameters: West from Christie Street to Dufferin Street

Yonge-Eglinton 
Jokingly known as the “Young and Eligible,” this bustling area is filled with restaurants—from neighborhood favorites to fine-dining destinations—as well as live-music pubs and nightclubs. To the east, it intersects with the 243-hectare (600-acre) Sunnybrook park system and the Ontario Science Centre.

• Best for: Youthful, low-key nightlife and Sunnybrook Park
• What you won't find: Arts or culture
• Neighborhood parameters: A two-block radius around the intersection of Yonge and Eglinton